p0717 issue
p0717 issue Hey I have a 2007 tbss complete pull-out engine and 4l70 two wheel trans e38 ecu with a t-42 trans controler.My initial issue is a constant p0717 Iss low volt code.and over the weekend showed a p0700 code as well. The trans always seemed to operate fine with my only complaint being a very quick & harsh 1-2 shift. But somthing weird happened over the weekend after some hwy. driving is that it slipped out of overdrive into a neutral ( no power to the wheels) but quickly came back to power. Now the codes have been constant since I finished the car last summer but the power loss only appeared this month and after I just install a new Strange S60 rear end.
My swap harness and both controlers came complete from PSI and they do offer great support but I would like to get a bit more info from someone here as to what questions I need to ask. I've tried two local trans shops with no luck. I've also reached out to a fellow here by the name of Nana. regarding a shift kit to resolve the harsh 1,2 shitf and he suggested I check my shift firmness to be sure they are set to zero and then he can determine what I might need in the kit.
Thanks, Tony
My swap harness and both controlers came complete from PSI and they do offer great support but I would like to get a bit more info from someone here as to what questions I need to ask. I've tried two local trans shops with no luck. I've also reached out to a fellow here by the name of Nana. regarding a shift kit to resolve the harsh 1,2 shitf and he suggested I check my shift firmness to be sure they are set to zero and then he can determine what I might need in the kit.
Thanks, Tony
TECH Junkie
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From: Poplarville, MS
What year is the transmission? Some 2006 transmissions and all older than 2006, (I am pretty sure 2006 is the changeover someone correct me if I am wrong) did not have an input turbine speed sensor. I would not try to address harsh shifts until you get the codes shorted out. The harsh shifts could be caused by the codes that are setting.
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Joined: Jan 2019
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From: Roxana, IL
I've heard that could be a ground issue. I have also heard that cutting the green wire from the ISS and grounding it to a VB bolt fixes it. I have not tried it personally, but a transmission builder group has done it a few times and fixed them. Could be worth looking into.
Ok after months of not getting the P0717 code its back again. The way I remedied the problem last year was to simply wiggle the big round white connector that plugs into the top of the pan. So I assumed that my problem is a ground issue. Having found that can I simply splce into that ground circuit at the round connector and externally ground to the trans case?
Thanks , Tony
Thanks , Tony
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Joined: Mar 2023
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From: BERWICK PA
PO717 Is input speed speed/ Not likely a ground issue as the trans grounds are through chassis no actual ground wire exist in the trans harness. Now a chassis ground or pcm ground issue is possible but even that is unlikely as that would tend to show as solenoid codes as the speed sensor is hall effect.
I would say more likely a bad connector one vehicle or trans harness internal or a bad sensor or sensor plug internal . The ISS can be tuned out of the TCM and code eliminated this should stop its effect on drivability would be one option or replace internal harness and or plug on trans external harness or tear trans down and replace ISS sensor.
Here is what I would do drive and data log watching the ISS see if its signal goes away or become erratic when this happens first.
if it does start by replacing the internal trans harness and end plug on vehicle harness. also if can clip an LED test light from trans case to body positive side to trans case watch for flickering while driving and a second to TCM ground and battery ground pos side at TCM ground again watch for for flicker while driving.
But Honestly, I think you are going to find its in one of the harness plugs trans side or vehicle side.
Me personally I would just tune it out and forget about it. If it was my car.
Frank
I would say more likely a bad connector one vehicle or trans harness internal or a bad sensor or sensor plug internal . The ISS can be tuned out of the TCM and code eliminated this should stop its effect on drivability would be one option or replace internal harness and or plug on trans external harness or tear trans down and replace ISS sensor.
Here is what I would do drive and data log watching the ISS see if its signal goes away or become erratic when this happens first.
if it does start by replacing the internal trans harness and end plug on vehicle harness. also if can clip an LED test light from trans case to body positive side to trans case watch for flickering while driving and a second to TCM ground and battery ground pos side at TCM ground again watch for for flicker while driving.
But Honestly, I think you are going to find its in one of the harness plugs trans side or vehicle side.
Me personally I would just tune it out and forget about it. If it was my car.
Frank
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TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Iowa
Input shaft speed sensor codes are SUPER common to fix by just snipping the wire and grounding directly to a valve body bolt.
Find pin V from the harness connector. Trace it back to the ISS plug.
Then snip it, put a ring terminal on it, and ground it directly to a VB bolt.
Many have been fixed this way.
Find pin V from the harness connector. Trace it back to the ISS plug.
Then snip it, put a ring terminal on it, and ground it directly to a VB bolt.
Many have been fixed this way.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Iowa
You'll need to take the wire from the connector at the ISS and ground it. I typically do this before it gets to the case connector.
You're certainly welcome to try to ground the wire after the case connector. But I've just always done it before the case connector.
After the case connector is easy enough so try that and report back
You're certainly welcome to try to ground the wire after the case connector. But I've just always done it before the case connector.
After the case connector is easy enough so try that and report back
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Iowa
That's how I've always done it yes
Not to say it wouldn't work if you grounded it right after the female connector...may be OK
and since it's easy enough to try doing it that way...you can give it a shot.
You just need that sensor wire to have a solid ground.
Not to say it wouldn't work if you grounded it right after the female connector...may be OK
and since it's easy enough to try doing it that way...you can give it a shot.
You just need that sensor wire to have a solid ground.
Ok as I have R &R my round connector on the trans to clean & check for bad wiring I've test driven around the neighborhood without any improvement in shifts in fact the trans has become a bit more eradict, winding out longer between shifts, hard shifts 1-2 & 2-3. But whats concerning me its not throughing any codes. Another issue maybe ?
Thanks, Tony
Thanks, Tony
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From: BERWICK PA
Could be several things , TPS out of range, Maf out of range , speed sensor erratic ground or wiring issues all of these can exist without a code. Its a path of check on thing then another. I would however make sure fliud is clean and not burned before i did alot.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Keeping in mind that the ECU/TCM directly command the 4L60e/4L70e when to shift, your statement of "winding out longer between shifts, hard shifts" indicates that the ECU thinks the engine load is higher than it actually is. Assuming the tune didn't change, then as Frank suggested, the TPS or MAF is often the culprit. (Or you are always driving uphill <grin>). If the speed sensor (VSS) were bad, it would also wind out longer between shifts, but not necessarily harder (might just seem harder).
Is your speedometer accurate and steady?
Some members here "solved" the hard/late shift problems by just cleaning the MAF; others had to replace it. I don't have the numbers handy, but I've seen doco on typical MAF numbers which a good scanner will show. So maybe 2500Hz at idle and 5000Hz at 40mph. (If it read much higher the ECU would think the load it higher and both delay and firm up the shifts.)
Is your speedometer accurate and steady?
Some members here "solved" the hard/late shift problems by just cleaning the MAF; others had to replace it. I don't have the numbers handy, but I've seen doco on typical MAF numbers which a good scanner will show. So maybe 2500Hz at idle and 5000Hz at 40mph. (If it read much higher the ECU would think the load it higher and both delay and firm up the shifts.)