4l80e reverse issue
OK guys, I think we might be onto something. I pulled the six bolts that hold on the pressure manifold switch that all have an 8 mm head. Three were longer and three were shorter. Are these all supposed to be the same size? Just for kicks, I left out the six bolts for the pressure manifold switch and snugged up all of the remaining 10 mm valve body bolts and the driveshaft still turns both ways freely. What do you guys think? Is this my issue? If so, where is a good place to find three of the shorter bolts since I have no idea where the old ones are now.
Here are the 8mm head bolts I removed from the PMS: https://imgur.com/a/NF6vQRq
Here are the 8mm head bolts I removed from the PMS: https://imgur.com/a/NF6vQRq
So the longer bolts that hold a stock 3/4 accumulator onto the valve body are 08675533 and have an UHL of 2.5", so ditch those longer ones once you confirm that the UHL is 2.5" for those longer ones.
The bolts that you want to secure the pressure manifold switch to the valve body have an 8mm head are m6x1x55 and are part number 8676222
For reference, the valve body bolts with the 10mm head are m6x1x55 and part number 11515262
So get 3 of these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ac...ody+bolt,18158 from your supplier of choice.
FYI rock auto code for 5% off: 203171354183710334
Rock auto shipping sucks as of late, so maybe someone has some that they can just ship you. Or you may be able to secure some locally at an ACE hardware or Fastenal.
Originally Posted by 5.7stroker
Yes they are supposed to be the same size. You accidently used 3 of the longer 3/4 accumulator bolts and some are probably making contact with the band causing your binding issue.
So the longer bolts that hold a stock 3/4 accumulator onto the valve body are 08675533 and have an UHL of 2.5", so ditch those longer ones once you confirm that the UHL is 2.5" for those longer ones.
The bolts that you want to secure the pressure manifold switch to the valve body have an 8mm head are m6x1x55 and are part number 8676222
For reference, the valve body bolts with the 10mm head are m6x1x55 and part number 11515262
So get 3 of these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ac...ody+bolt,18158 from your supplier of choice.
FYI rock auto code for 5% off: 203171354183710334
Rock auto shipping sucks as of late, so maybe someone has some that they can just ship you. Or you may be able to secure some locally at an ACE hardware or Fastenal.
So the longer bolts that hold a stock 3/4 accumulator onto the valve body are 08675533 and have an UHL of 2.5", so ditch those longer ones once you confirm that the UHL is 2.5" for those longer ones.
The bolts that you want to secure the pressure manifold switch to the valve body have an 8mm head are m6x1x55 and are part number 8676222
For reference, the valve body bolts with the 10mm head are m6x1x55 and part number 11515262
So get 3 of these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ac...ody+bolt,18158 from your supplier of choice.
FYI rock auto code for 5% off: 203171354183710334
Rock auto shipping sucks as of late, so maybe someone has some that they can just ship you. Or you may be able to secure some locally at an ACE hardware or Fastenal.
I have seen this problem on 4L60E valve bodies but did not think it was a thing on the 4l80e. i was going to post about it but wrote it off as useless information as the 4L80E uses all the same length bolts, aside from the pressure manifold bolts which are same length but 8 mm head.
The 3 new bolts are supposed to come in on thursday. I havent put in the 3 correct sized bolts in, but when i tightened up the valve body with all the 10mm bolts and left the PMS bolts out, the driveshaft turned both ways in neutral.Fingers crossed. I will let you know as soon as i can test it out. It will probably be on saturday!
The 3 new bolts are supposed to come in on thursday. I havent put in the 3 correct sized bolts in, but when i tightened up the valve body with all the 10mm bolts and left the PMS bolts out, the driveshaft turned both ways in neutral.Fingers crossed. I will let you know as soon as i can test it out. It will probably be on saturday!
The correct bolts fixed it! No more bind! Thanks for all the help.
I adjusted the braided dipstick to be the right depth. Unfortunately it is super hard to read. I can't tell if it is over full or not even on the stick. Fun stuff
I adjusted the braided dipstick to be the right depth. Unfortunately it is super hard to read. I can't tell if it is over full or not even on the stick. Fun stuff
Good to know!!! Thanks for the follow up!!!
all the lokar wire type dipsticks ive used had a chunk of aluminum on the end. maybe look into doing something like that?
anymore I shy away from flexible tube dipsticks unless there is no other option.
also some well-placed P-clamps will help get consistent fluid readings
anymore I shy away from flexible tube dipsticks unless there is no other option.
also some well-placed P-clamps will help get consistent fluid readings








