Upgraded 60e backing plate
Upgraded 60e backing plate I'm going with a 7 clutch setup on the 3-4, pretty much the 65e stack, well the seller suggested buying upgraded sonnax backing plate kit 74140-01k. Does the oem really cone that bad? First 60e I will do. I've done an 80e only so not too familiar with the mods needed on a 60e. I've read some, but alot of conflicting info. I tend to stick with OE Parts. Seems like there's alot of stuff for 60es that doesn't seem needed.
Thanks for feedback and suggestions.
this will go in a truck making no more than 400whp.
And I guess just to provide a parts list:
Have 4l60elb1 boost valve from sonnax
have the sonnax shift performance pack
Trans go separator plate
7 .067 " high energy frictions
. 097" steels
High energy for the forward , low rev, etc
corvette servo
Carbon band (not a wideband)
updated sun shell
I plan on drilling separator plate to specs based on PBA/Dana recommendation not what sonnax recommends.
Also noticed the lb1 boost valve looks different than the boost valve provided in the sonnax performance pack. Any idea what the difference is?
Thanks for feedback and suggestions.
this will go in a truck making no more than 400whp.
And I guess just to provide a parts list:
Have 4l60elb1 boost valve from sonnax
have the sonnax shift performance pack
Trans go separator plate
7 .067 " high energy frictions
. 097" steels
High energy for the forward , low rev, etc
corvette servo
Carbon band (not a wideband)
updated sun shell
I plan on drilling separator plate to specs based on PBA/Dana recommendation not what sonnax recommends.
Also noticed the lb1 boost valve looks different than the boost valve provided in the sonnax performance pack. Any idea what the difference is?
Last edited by subeone; Nov 25, 2022 at 07:09 PM.
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LB1 has o-rings to help prevent leaks on worn bores, it also has the larger diameter boost valve. can't comment on the sonnax backing plates i think they are nice but many here have had good success with the "stock" stuff, myself included.
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I find the thick factory one is fine. Not sure how to justify $120 on that Sonnax part.
I also use .080 HEG 3-4 clutches with .078 steels and the thickest top plate that gives the clearance I like to run. With a 7 stack clutch.
Way back when I remember Xxxx from Xxx Xxxxx used to use the 700R4 set up with a too thin apply plate. It would form hot spots on top of the apply tangs.
So I bet if you get more replies on this they will vary.
I also use .080 HEG 3-4 clutches with .078 steels and the thickest top plate that gives the clearance I like to run. With a 7 stack clutch.
Way back when I remember Xxxx from Xxx Xxxxx used to use the 700R4 set up with a too thin apply plate. It would form hot spots on top of the apply tangs.
So I bet if you get more replies on this they will vary.
Thanks to both of you guys for the replies.
I agree, seems like alot of money. I have heard from locals they have coned the factory plates so thought I'd ask.
i might have to buy some .080 HEG clutches to get desired stack. Maybe a .062 snap ring? I've read .040 is a good spot to be for 3-4?
Do you guys mess with the epc set screw at all when building these things?
and do you guys omit the 3-4 release springs or leave them? I've read conflicting info..like always when it comes to this trans lol. Supposedly if you do certain lube mods, and raise pressures then the springs won't do anything as they would need to be recalibrated.
I agree, seems like alot of money. I have heard from locals they have coned the factory plates so thought I'd ask.
i might have to buy some .080 HEG clutches to get desired stack. Maybe a .062 snap ring? I've read .040 is a good spot to be for 3-4?
Do you guys mess with the epc set screw at all when building these things?
and do you guys omit the 3-4 release springs or leave them? I've read conflicting info..like always when it comes to this trans lol. Supposedly if you do certain lube mods, and raise pressures then the springs won't do anything as they would need to be recalibrated.
Last edited by subeone; Nov 25, 2022 at 10:00 PM.
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 252
Likes: 84
From: USA
Thanks to both of you guys for the replies.
I agree, seems like alot of money. I have heard from locals they have coned the factory plates so thought I'd ask.
i might have to buy some .080 HEG clutches to get desired stack. Maybe a .062 snap ring? I've read .040 is a good spot to be for 3-4?
Do you guys mess with the epc set screw at all when building these things?
and do you guys omit the 3-4 release springs or leave them? I've read conflicting info..like always when it comes to this trans lol. Supposedly if you do certain lube mods, and raise pressures then the springs won't do anything as they would need to be recalibrated.
I agree, seems like alot of money. I have heard from locals they have coned the factory plates so thought I'd ask.
i might have to buy some .080 HEG clutches to get desired stack. Maybe a .062 snap ring? I've read .040 is a good spot to be for 3-4?
Do you guys mess with the epc set screw at all when building these things?
and do you guys omit the 3-4 release springs or leave them? I've read conflicting info..like always when it comes to this trans lol. Supposedly if you do certain lube mods, and raise pressures then the springs won't do anything as they would need to be recalibrated.
Just my opinion, the apply plate is found to be coned after the whole clutch burned up or overheated, and it's not the cause of the burn up but a result.
For clutch and steel thickness I try to use the thickest of everything possible. Meaning I don't see the point of running a super thick steel with paper thin frictions. I try to equal it out and still use thick apply, and top plates. The .080 and .076, .078 seems to work for what I do.
I like to use the transgo 3-4 return springs. I've built a few with Sonnax stock replacement type springs and they seem to shift weird at high rpm (like 6800)
Some people like to drill a small hole in the drum to prevent centrifugal 3-4 apply but the springs seem to work for me.
I've never touched the EPC screw on anything.
The vehicles I've owned or still own that I didn't build the transmission in I just get the transgo SK kit, aluminum accumulator pistons, corvette servo, transgo .500 boost valve. Those parts come in an easy to install kit and it usually provides what I want. I just want to feel the shift, thats it. And if these mods don't work alone I tune the pcm a little.
If I do a complete build I still use pre-made calibration (shift) kits. And some other mods I've learned over the years. And there are going to be people disgusted reading this, like they despise transgo and their stupid modifications.
It is what it is and people will do what they do.
IMO the release springs are a must to help with release and centrifugal apply / The stock apply and backing plate are fine as long as straight, We clean our up with our lathe and it is also helpful with getting that exact clearance of course if badly off they must be replaced but being flat true on both surfaces is a MUST and even the factory new plates are sadly not that many times we have noted on lathe.
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