tcc problems again
Also bear in mind if you surface the face more than you can get thinner slides you will either have to surface the pocket or your slide to the right fit, The pocket can be done on the lathe but is a pan to set up.
Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook

Last edited by FranksCustomTrans; Aug 26, 2024 at 02:20 PM.
Since I had the transmission apart and Mr. Frank and I did not have any confidence in the pump housing, I decided to use a pump I had ordered. Only issue was that it was an oring style which necessitated a different case. So out came the drill bits and I prepped an 02 case. Then transferred all of the gear train and clutches over. On went the new pump and reused the valve body and separator plate from the 06 case. Note that the separator plate was new and the vb had previously been vacuum tested and fixes put in place. l also I went to town and warrantied the converter just to be on the safe side. So what we have is, a different case, new converter, new pump, new tcc apply solenoid(just to be safe) different input drum and shaft with all new rings.......absolutely no change. Like at all. Symptoms exactly the same. Very light to non existent apply. I can activate the solenoid in gear at idle with the brakes applied and there is just the hint of drag as the tcc tries to do something. Maxing out the epc makes no change. Tomorrow I am going to hook the pressure gauge back up and record the new pump and it's pressures. If you recall from my previous thread, the pump was applying good pressure but still had zero lockup until I installed a new pup. We chalked it up to poor converter charge. What the flippity flip is going to end up being the cause this time. I am tempted to take the transmission out of my truck and throw it in this suburban to see what happens.
But quick rundown
1- screen is in new pump ?
Oh just a note - you can used the push in seal with the oringed pump in the 2006 case and use both the oring and the push in as long as the input drum is matched to the stator style of the pump. Note some 2006 did not have the ISS or a place bored for it but did use the ISS stator and even though does not have the reluctor on the shaft. Does have the relocated rings for the ISS, This matters because if you use the early shaft with the ISS stator the ring at overun will be damaged by the hole in stator.
I Ask about the screen because it will cause no or little lockup and little or no line rise.
Man sorry you are having so many issues
seems between the previous unit and now this one it is your month for lockup issues.You know I had one once doing similar and it was actually missing the valve behind the 3-2 solenoid . But was a VB type that required it ,
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I know what pain a situation like this can be, since I have been doing bench builds at home so far I have run into nothing like it "KNOCK ON WOOD" But I know it will eventually come. 99 percent of the time things like this are easily diagnosable simple stuff , But once in a while. I have over the years seen hole drilled between and through vb Passages I missed and could not explain why anyone would have done that. Cracks deep in case channels once cause int no reverse in a 4l80e.
But luckily these things are rare .
(But soon ill have more piece of mind working on two things a controller like I built and they still use at my previous endeavor to run a dyno (The new one iis however far more advanced with ability to not only shift gears and check pressures variance and lockup . But will be able to test the manifold switch and temp sender along with PWM and the 3-2 function and friend of mine is building the frame and drive system mechanically for a dyno . Once he is done i plan to order twin 10 hp DC pulsed variable speed motors for it 0 to 6000 rpm which will also give me ability to set WOT shift speeds for 700r4 and 200r4 well upto 6k rpm anyway) hoping this winter some time . but he is a pro welder machinist , He started on it early spring but got busy and says will finish this winter, He is one of my customers and doing it free for cost of any materials he does not just have laying around. Looking forward to that. Though unlikely to offer it as a standard service as take alot of time rather it will be for testing new ideas and offered as optional service on builds for people who want that extra piece of mind. (i am a one man show like yourself ) .
Sorry another off topic rant but as long as at it also building a device to test and even calibrate presure control solenoids will show that here when done.
But again sorry you are having such an issue with one been there done that many times over my 40 plus years doing this and on occasion I have even had to just dump a whole unit and build a core . SOMETIMES THAT IS THE BEST OPTION when working against the clock.
One thing I would like to ask you personally I am thinking of building a manual controller to sell to persons like yourself that allows you to plug into trans and run all functions independent of the vehicle (pressure. pwm. 3-2, shifts. manifold test) But my cost and time is pretty high on building, it would be able a simple plug and operate box that can test at first te 60 and 80e but will offer additional plugs for the AODE 4R70W and more. But the question I have and not holding you to it, Is this something someone would be willing to pay like 500 dollars for as that is about as cheap as I can afford to make them for? But for someone with a situation like yours being able to easily take the vehicle off the table it cold save that much with a single use.
Over the years I have seen odd things with the vehicle electronics. SOLENOIDS that I could hear click yet were not actually working when running due to low voltages associated with low voltages at PIN -E poor grounds at PCM . Corroded plugs and connectors chasing my tail all over trying to narrow down.
This is something I would suggest you check just thinking . Place a VOM on PIN E to ground and if you have two another at the TCC tan/black wire to ground. You should see vehicle running 13v up on pin E vehicle running and the same on the TAN/BLACK wire which should drop to 0 or very close (milivotes at most) when PCM commands lockup. just a quick simple clip in test while it's still together when you do your pressure test Just an idea.
Sorry for the extended rant hoping you do eventually find a definitive problem/solution you can post up just popping ideas.
I do think you have a VB issue but still would be a couple good things to try first . Like i said that manual second drop is concerning and I would expect ide 0 throttle line to be about 60 PSI OR HIGHER
Im leaning hard to VB and the leak being there as you certainly do have a leak in second gear circuit,
You line rise is excellent, Idle a little low maybe consider adding my little spring to the boost valve or turning up EPC 1/4 turn your choice, I like to see 60 to 80 psi at idle .,
The massive drop of pressure during lockup is the symptom of the very first thing I mentioned the TCC enable . the valve travels to far and dumps the converter apply oil causing no lockup and large line pressure drop . That is the big risk of swapping parts without pressure reading at each change. You cannot know if you introduced a new issues.
So Saying that I would suggest swapping the TCC valve again .







