4L60E getting very hot
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4L60E getting very hot When I put load on the 4l60e, like driving up a mountain it gets dangerously hot, It'll go 230+ if I don't pull over and let it cool and everything I've read states it shouldn't be getting hotter than 220, this is a newly rebuilt transmission with a new torque converter alongside it.
I'm considering buying a new transmission cooler but I'm worried that wont help because while driving up that steep incline for 20 minutes the torque converter almost never is able to lockup, I really don't know where to go from here. Is there a way to keep the torque converter locked during high load situations like this, or will that damage the converter/trans? Would a transmission cooler help? During these mountain drives it usually stays in 2nd/3rd gear.
I'm not sure if it matters but the specific vehicle that I'm talking about is a 1997 Silverado, 5.7L 4X4.
I'm considering buying a new transmission cooler but I'm worried that wont help because while driving up that steep incline for 20 minutes the torque converter almost never is able to lockup, I really don't know where to go from here. Is there a way to keep the torque converter locked during high load situations like this, or will that damage the converter/trans? Would a transmission cooler help? During these mountain drives it usually stays in 2nd/3rd gear.
I'm not sure if it matters but the specific vehicle that I'm talking about is a 1997 Silverado, 5.7L 4X4.
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From: BERWICK PA
Seeing intermittent temps that high or higher on a long steep incline can happen and not a serous issue, However if you do this alot you might consider a larger cooler of cooler with fan.
Higher that stock stalls compound this with stall (any energy not transferred to wheels "converter slip" is turned into heat.
As long as all else is ok i would not be overly worried
YES in tune you can change converter apply settings to hold lockup to a wide throttle opening at lower speeds and yes this can reduce heat. However bear in mind the stock and after market single disc converters were not designed for this and could result in premature converter failure depending on how much of an incline and how much throttle. Stock lockup converters were really only intended to lock at light throttle cruising speeds on a relatively flat surface.
Higher that stock stalls compound this with stall (any energy not transferred to wheels "converter slip" is turned into heat.
As long as all else is ok i would not be overly worried
YES in tune you can change converter apply settings to hold lockup to a wide throttle opening at lower speeds and yes this can reduce heat. However bear in mind the stock and after market single disc converters were not designed for this and could result in premature converter failure depending on how much of an incline and how much throttle. Stock lockup converters were really only intended to lock at light throttle cruising speeds on a relatively flat surface.
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Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
I would also suggest starting with a bigger transmission cooler. Does your vehicle even have a dedicated cooler or is it running through the main radiator?
If running through the main radiator, it generally cannot cool down much more than the engine temperature. In contrast a dedicated cooler (and not in series with radiator cooler), will cool much better.
If that is still not enough, a "triple disk" converter combined with a tuning change can stay locked up at any throttle position. Of course the cost is likely $1400+ labor+ tuning.
If running through the main radiator, it generally cannot cool down much more than the engine temperature. In contrast a dedicated cooler (and not in series with radiator cooler), will cool much better.
If that is still not enough, a "triple disk" converter combined with a tuning change can stay locked up at any throttle position. Of course the cost is likely $1400+ labor+ tuning.
