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CVB oversize AFL valve install

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Old Feb 22, 2025 | 08:05 PM
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Default CVB oversize AFL valve install

I tried installing this valve twice and it would not slip in easy.
The first one, 2000 v6, I put back together with the original valve.
On this one, 2005 5.3, I measured the first land and it is only .0002 bigger than the one that was in it.
Do these Central Valve Bodies valves slip in or do they need some "sizing" like TG instructions talk about? -Hard side loading-

Last edited by TurboS10; Feb 22, 2025 at 09:36 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2025 | 08:55 PM
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The gently oversized valve requires just a bit more pressure to install and depending in bore wear may feel a bit like its scrubbing. Nt bad but a little, But no worries the super stiff spring re-installed and it will move and snap back like stock.
Or if you want to scrub it in put a spring in front of it of some sort and stroke it in and out a bit. . But it will do that on its own. running too.
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Old Feb 22, 2025 | 09:10 PM
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Not a scrub feel. Just like stuck crunchy feel. It could be going in crooked I guess.
I bought 5 pack, I'll measure another one.
On a tangent-
When making the PWM TCC on/off with stock valve by flipping only the inboard valve-
The spring makes getting the end plug back in pretty hard.
I vaguely remember the last one I did was hard but not this hard.
Is flipping the inboard valve only the correct way or do you reverse the whole assembly?
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Old Feb 22, 2025 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboS10
Not a scrub feel. Just like stuck crunchy feel. It could be going in crooked I guess.
I bought 5 pack, I'll measure another one.
On a tangent-
When making the PWM TCC on/off with stock valve by flipping only the inboard valve-
The spring makes getting the end plug back in pretty hard.
I vaguely remember the last one I did was hard but not this hard.
Is flipping the inboard valve only the correct way or do you reverse the whole assembly?
I generally do not do it that way at all, I used to stick the valve outboard which eliminated PWM but later also learned this can be a bad thing. As you are forcing the TCC clutch to handle line pressure which in the case of for instance WOT lockup can damage and distort the conveter face, apply and damage the clutch. Probably ok if the TCC use is left stock as it would never see max line, But other better options exist.
1- And best of course ream it and put the sonnax assembly in it.
2- use the constant pressure valve and spring by sonnax it limits to about 120 psi.
3- Place a stiff little spring between the isolator valve and VB wall one that will compress you can push down through the channel behind the isolator valve, This will fix it well also. The spring can be found in the harbor freight spring kit , I forget the number but it has two short fat springs the same size one weaker, Use the stiffer one compress . push down in with the isolator already forward it will pop into place. Maintains PWM just at an overall higher pressure. (works well)
4- use the fitzall but again TCC at line pressure.

With any of these IMO with the exceptions of the sonnax and the ftzall . It is important to replace the end cap for this valve , Better yet use orring cap. If you look at the fluid diagram you will see why and this is a sizable leak point in the circuit.
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Old Feb 24, 2025 | 07:20 AM
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The CVB valve usually will slip in from my experience. Did you happen to VAC test that lineup? It might not need it, although rare if thats the case

Last edited by 2BFAST; Feb 24, 2025 at 07:26 AM.
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Old Feb 24, 2025 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 2BFAST
The CVB valve usually will slip in from my experience. Did you happen to VAC test that lineup? It might not need it, although rare if thats the case
the ones i have used thus far, did slip in one was a little tight but afer a few strokes free as could be,
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Old Feb 24, 2025 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by FranksCustomTrans
the ones i have used thus far, did slip in one was a little tight but afer a few strokes free as could be,
Agree. Using some WD40 always helps when disassembling and assembling VB's
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