Replacement for 4000 stall
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Replacement for 4000 stall tldr: any recommendations for highway friendly convertor sizes?
Hey guys just wanted to get some input on what stall would be a good replacement for my 4000 stall converter. I have a 6.0 with a BTR 4 cam. I want the car to be a bit easier to daily, since I do a fair bit of highway driving. My brother has a pretty similar build but is running a 3600 size converter and the same factory 3.23 rear gear as me. He’s pretty happy with it but doesn’t run the car on the highway as much as I do.
I wasn’t ever really planning on daily driving the car as much, but I got rear ended not too long ago in my daily. My Trans Am is my only car until I figure something else out and I wouldn’t mind driving the car every day if it wasn’t for the stall. It runs great and puts me in the seat pretty good but I wouldn’t mind sacrificing some performance for some more highway drivability.
Hey guys just wanted to get some input on what stall would be a good replacement for my 4000 stall converter. I have a 6.0 with a BTR 4 cam. I want the car to be a bit easier to daily, since I do a fair bit of highway driving. My brother has a pretty similar build but is running a 3600 size converter and the same factory 3.23 rear gear as me. He’s pretty happy with it but doesn’t run the car on the highway as much as I do.
I wasn’t ever really planning on daily driving the car as much, but I got rear ended not too long ago in my daily. My Trans Am is my only car until I figure something else out and I wouldn’t mind driving the car every day if it wasn’t for the stall. It runs great and puts me in the seat pretty good but I wouldn’t mind sacrificing some performance for some more highway drivability.
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
I don't quite understand the concern here. Highway driveability with a 4000 stall speed should be the same as a 3600 stall speed or even a stock 1800 stall speed; reason being, all will turn the same rpms while in lock-up on the highway.
Is your TCC (Torque Converter Clutch, i.e. lock-up) feature not working? Misfires from the cam can cause a torque converter to not lock, but this is easily fixable with tuning. I assume your car is already tuned for the cam?
I could understand not being happy with the street manners in stop-and-go low speed traffic if you had a really big stall speed and a really low (numerically) gear ratio, but I've never heard anybody complain about stall speed for highway cruising unless it was a non-lock-up converter (such as an old TH350/400, etc., transmission). Assuming you have a 4L60E, it should most definitely have a lock-up converter. With that in mind, it doesn't matter if your stall speed is stock or 5000rpm, it should cruise exactly the same at typical highway speeds.
Is your TCC (Torque Converter Clutch, i.e. lock-up) feature not working? Misfires from the cam can cause a torque converter to not lock, but this is easily fixable with tuning. I assume your car is already tuned for the cam?
I could understand not being happy with the street manners in stop-and-go low speed traffic if you had a really big stall speed and a really low (numerically) gear ratio, but I've never heard anybody complain about stall speed for highway cruising unless it was a non-lock-up converter (such as an old TH350/400, etc., transmission). Assuming you have a 4L60E, it should most definitely have a lock-up converter. With that in mind, it doesn't matter if your stall speed is stock or 5000rpm, it should cruise exactly the same at typical highway speeds.
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Would a camshaft position sensor possibly cause the lock up to fail? The car was mainly driven on weekends before hand and I honestly hadn’t driven it in over a month before my accident. The idiot light on the dash came on but the car was running good with no misfires so I assumed it something small but I just scanned and it’s throwing a camshaft position code. I’ve had the car on this setup for couple of months and hadn’t pushed it super hard for fear of killing my 10 bolt.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Would a camshaft position sensor possibly cause the lock up to fail? The car was mainly driven on weekends before hand and I honestly hadn’t driven it in over a month before my accident. The idiot light on the dash came on but the car was running good with no misfires so I assumed it something small but I just scanned and it’s throwing a camshaft position code. I’ve had the car on this setup for couple of months and hadn’t pushed it super hard for fear of killing my 10 bolt.
As stated, very likely the misfire sensitivity has not been reduced, as is necessary for any high overlap cam.
Also a high quality converter will generally be tighter and not slip as much at speed as the often purchased cheap converters.
For example, when I first had a cheap TCI 3600 converter, the car would barely accelerate under 3000 RPM. Now with a top quality ($1200+) converter, I can briskly accelerate with shifts while keeping the RPMs under 2000. I barely notice an RPM drop when the TCC engages.
