4L60E engine braking/overrun help needed.
The scenario I have is this: If I'm coasting along at 70mph in 4th and manually pull the gear selector to 3rd, there is no engine braking and it feels just like neutral at zero throttle input. If I apply throttle it accelerates with no issues. Second gear is similar except after I have pulled the selector into 2nd, if I let it coast for about 2 seconds it will engage 2nd gear and have engine braking. If I manually pull it into 2nd and accelerate immediately, leave the selector in 2nd, lift off the throttle it will have engine braking until I select a higher gear. First gear has normal and expected engine braking anytime the selector is in 1st and I'm off the throttle.
The 4L60E in question has been modified/built with parts to handle more than 800hp and a 3200rpm converter, but it does not have the HD shift valve which sounds like a common mod many builders use. I did talk to the builder and they said I'm running too much line psi in the tune file and it's likely not allowing the fluid to bleed off at the appropriate time. I just ran a test with drastically reduced up shift/down shift pressures, and generally drastically reduced commanded pressure throughout. There was zero difference in the engine braking/over run character with lowering the pressure. I copied the original transmission tables from the OE stock file also as a test, also zero change in engine braking/over run character.
Thank you for your time.
They is no pressure situation or "bleed off" situation that would cause what you describe. You have engine braking in second because it works a different way not dependent on the OVERUN as much and fed differently.
And Manual first gear too is very different, I would say you have one of the issues I listed with the overun clutch or other leak in that circuit . You can have a substantial leak in that circuit and not affect any other function of the unit,
Now note many vets have pretty high ratios I think 3.05 or something like that do you may need to be going pretty fast when you pull down coasting to feel overun in D3 and if you have a high stall converter much higher speed to feel it.
Before I condemned the builder or trans I would cruise up to about 70-90 mph let of throttle and pull down to D3 if you feel a bump at all then it is indeed working correctly as a high stall and the typically High ratio the vet comes with could easily hide the engine braking or make it negligible unless at pretty high speeds.
This week I will run it up to what would be 4500 to 5000 for 3rd then lift, pull the selector to 3rd and see if I feel a bump.
As of now, if I put the selector in 3rd, make a WOT pull up to 6,000 or so and lift, leaving the selector in 3rd, I don't feel any engine braking.
This week I will run it up to what would be 4500 to 5000 for 3rd then lift, pull the selector to 3rd and see if I feel a bump.
As of now, if I put the selector in 3rd, make a WOT pull up to 6,000 or so and lift, leaving the selector in 3rd, I don't feel any engine braking.
POSSIBILITES
SONNAX VALVE WITH THE FEED NOT CUT,
SOME VERSION OF OVERUN MODS FOR D3 OR D4 NOT COMPLETED WITH FEED FROM FWD OR LINE.
AN OVERUN MOD SIMILAR TO MINE I HAVE PUBLISHED IN MY THREAD TIPS AND TRICKS WHERE ONE OF THE TWO HOLES AT THE BATHTUBE HAVE COME UNPLUGGED WITH NO BALL PRESENT AND IS DUMPING THE OVERUN OIL AND /OR THE GASKET NOT CUT AGAIN TO SUPPLY OIL .
BROKEN OVERUN HUB.
WRONG PUMP STATOR-INPUT SHAFT COMBO CUTTING THE RING FOR OVERUN DUMPING THE CIRCUIT.
DAMAGED TOP ORING DURING PUMP INSTALL
DAMAGED OVERUN PISTON
At that speed RPM even with the vet 3.15 gears you should feel engine braking. Now bear in mind with a large stall and that ratio it wont feel like alot. It should be notable in D3 with or without any sort of overrun mod.
Any of these things is possible.
Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook

Last edited by FranksCustomTrans; Aug 20, 2025 at 11:31 AM.






