rebuilt 4l80e 2nd gear skip
I dont want to throw parts at it, I did too much of that on too many other gremlins. Researching it sounds like I have burnt clutches, bad solenoids/wiring, or low fluid. I can confirm the fluid is not low, may be on the high side which can be a problem I know. Im only posting in hopes that the datalog will make it obvious that its clutches or a solenoid. Any thoughts or info would be greatly appreciated!
I dont want to throw parts at it, I did too much of that on too many other gremlins. Researching it sounds like I have burnt clutches, bad solenoids/wiring, or low fluid. I can confirm the fluid is not low, may be on the high side which can be a problem I know. Im only posting in hopes that the datalog will make it obvious that its clutches or a solenoid. Any thoughts or info would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for the reply Frank! I will check whatever I can before having to drop the trans. I installed the centersupport bolt, I believe the trans go kit included an “upgraded” bolt. I’m considering buying new solenoids and internal harness while I’m in there. I took care installing all the of the apply pistons, lubed them, and used stencil film to slide the lips in. Doesn’t mean I didn’t screw it up though.
Is your adapter harness pinned correctly? Confirm ECU and TCU are tuned and segment swapped correctly?
I would also be highly suspect of your external yoke speed sensor. Is the gap correct? Does the mount vibrate? Even if you read the mph ok with your eyes, how does the data look on in a data log? Smooth/choppy? Bad sensor? Try swapping sensors too!
Is your adapter harness pinned correctly? Confirm ECU and TCU are tuned and segment swapped correctly?
I would also be highly suspect of your external yoke speed sensor. Is the gap correct? Does the mount vibrate? Even if you read the mph ok with your eyes, how does the data look on in a data log? Smooth/choppy? Bad sensor? Try swapping sensors too!
Everything for the vss seems to be working great. Never any hic ups, and it looks normal on the data logs. I used a reluctor ring from a 4l80e, had a plate machined for the center and then split it in half. The bolt pattern was already drilled before I split it, so all the gaps are consistent.
I will try unplugging the connector this evening to see if it still moves in 2nd. That’s a nice trick to know.
Tbss vss
Tbss vss
Tbss vss
Tbss vss
However if second is not functional then even with harness unpluged you will move in 1st just still no second.
I would actually suggest you pull VB and air check second through bolt. Couple possibilities here. You left the 2nd snap ring out , or the case luged snapped off on first apply. It the latter you will find little aluminun chunks in pan . I say this because you mention that MANUAL shift 1-2 you feel something a little. If you have a massive leak in the 2nd clutch circuit cause by one of the above. You would likley get a partcial apply of the INT band which would feel like you decribe like something sorta, This likley proves the vale train is working along with the solenoid . So As I said I would move directly to air checking the INT clutch via the center bolt in case and of course look for little alumun chunks in pan. Another possible I have seen is the sec piston it self broke on first apply (not common) but been doing this long enough I have seen about everything.
However if second is not functional then even with harness unpluged you will move in 1st just still no second.
I would actually suggest you pull VB and air check second through bolt. Couple possibilities here. You left the 2nd snap ring out , or the case luged snapped off on first apply. It the latter you will find little aluminun chunks in pan . I say this because you mention that MANUAL shift 1-2 you feel something a little. If you have a massive leak in the 2nd clutch circuit cause by one of the above. You would likley get a partcial apply of the INT band which would feel like you decribe like something sorta, This likley proves the vale train is working along with the solenoid . So As I said I would move directly to air checking the INT clutch via the center bolt in case and of course look for little alumun chunks in pan. Another possible I have seen is the sec piston it self broke on first apply (not common) but been doing this long enough I have seen about everything.
That’s an easy check. As much as I don’t want it to be that, I would be so relieved to know exactly what the problem is. I will inspect the VB while it’s out. I hope I don’t find the aluminum chunk route! Lol.
Thank you for the reply!
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If you have to take it back out it would be a good time to put the reluctor wheel where it belongs. I do have to say that set up you have looks very nice & rigid. Would work very well until it gets soaked with mud...
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If you have to take it back out it would be a good time to put the reluctor wheel where it belongs. I do have to say that set up you have looks very nice & rigid. Would work very well until it gets soaked with mud...
thanks for the reply!
thanks for the reply!
The intermediate clutch is fed directly through the bolt and you shouldn't have much of an air leak
When applying air to the center bolt, you should hear a thud. The intermediate clutch should only have .050-.060 clearance. If you do hear air escaping it could be the lip seals are blown out.
For the reluctor ring, will it press on the 4wd carrier just like it would on a 2wd? I’ve not seen anywhere labeling them different.
Thanks for the help!
Last edited by tonyorlo; Oct 14, 2025 at 10:29 AM.
The planet is the same, you just press the reluctor over the smooth pary. You just have to make sure it is on enough to center itself in the ISS hole in the case. Local transmission shop may have that too. Or at least let you compare to one that has the ring.










