Stall - Confusion
Stall - Confusion I try reading these posts about stalls and get confused 
...can someone break down how the car would be different with an aftermarket stall on a mostly stock car (headers, catback)? What are advantages to the stall speeds? The engine doesn't fully engage the transmission until whatever the stall speed is, correct? Which stall speed would be best for a bolt on LT1 with 3.23 gears and a trans-go? Will an aftermarket stall wear the transmission faster? It is a daily driver in the spring/summer. If anyone can help me out in simple terms it would be great.
...can someone break down how the car would be different with an aftermarket stall on a mostly stock car (headers, catback)? What are advantages to the stall speeds? The engine doesn't fully engage the transmission until whatever the stall speed is, correct? Which stall speed would be best for a bolt on LT1 with 3.23 gears and a trans-go? Will an aftermarket stall wear the transmission faster? It is a daily driver in the spring/summer. If anyone can help me out in simple terms it would be great. 
Largely similar to "dumping" a clutch at a higher RPM, a higher stall converter allows your car to leave the line with more power hitting the wheels as you launch.
Most automatic cars experience a dead spot immediately after the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. It will feel really strong all through first gear. It feels weak until the RPM gets to where it should be, and the power feels like it comes back. With a stall converter, the RPM doesn't fall like they do with a stock converter. Expect the RPM to stay considerably higher after the shifts with a stall converter, completely getting rid of the dead zone.
I would suggest a 2600-2800 stall for your car, which will work well for a daily driven LT1. A higher stall converter creates more heat, which wears transmissions faster. But if you put in a transmission cooler, it will counter this.
Most automatic cars experience a dead spot immediately after the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. It will feel really strong all through first gear. It feels weak until the RPM gets to where it should be, and the power feels like it comes back. With a stall converter, the RPM doesn't fall like they do with a stock converter. Expect the RPM to stay considerably higher after the shifts with a stall converter, completely getting rid of the dead zone.
I would suggest a 2600-2800 stall for your car, which will work well for a daily driven LT1. A higher stall converter creates more heat, which wears transmissions faster. But if you put in a transmission cooler, it will counter this.
