ChirsB, what bellhousing was used to make the Lenco (or a Jerico) fit? I see lakewood makes a T-10 bellhousing for the ls1, but thats all I could find.

Justin

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ChrisB:
[QB]From what I have seen if you are serious about drag racing and making 400+rwhp the stocker just will not last reliably. I don't care who builds it.
__________________________________________________

True, but like I said, I might see the track once or twice, ever! I want a street monster.
If I get into frequent drag racing I'll get the best tranny money can buy.

What about the rear end in my car. I was considering a 12" Moser, Eaton posi, 33 spline?
Is this good? What would be better?

OR, is my stock rear OK as well, with a rebuild?

 

Terry Burger,

I guess thats what I've been waiting to hear, on the street, not slamming it full bore out of the hole at the track every weekend and using a 2800 or 3000 stall to keep the TQ mutiplication down should be OK I guess.

Maybe I'll try the rebuild of the 4L60E and see if it blows.

Thanks

 

If you want to a rebuild yourself on a 4l60e the parts will cost about $500, maybe a little less or a little more depending what you replace. I was going to go this route but after talking with chuck at FLP decided that the way he builds them, with vacuum modulation and also machining of internal parts that it would last longer than just a rebuild. In the same boat as you been looking at all the options. Figured I would try this first.

Gary

 

Quickin, do the motor and then see what happens with the tranny.

Chuck @ FLP does more than just slap in some clutches and a new band. He uses custom made parts, some parts that have been cryo'd, and blueprints/machines certain things to get the right clearances.

 

[quote]Originally posted by Quickin:
<strong>What about the rear end in my car. I was considering a 12" Moser, Eaton posi, 33 spline?
Is this good? What would be better?

OR, is my stock rear OK as well, with a rebuild?</strong><hr></blockquote>
You'll definitely need to replace your rearend. My friend trashed his 10-bolt for the 3rd time just giving the car 1/2 throttle after the MTI 422 was installed, and this was on the street. The Moser 12-bolt will work well, no doubt. I don't know what gear ratio you're looking to go with, but my same friend has Moser's 12-bolt with 4.10's, and the gears whine like a cat in heat. It's taken the abuse of low 1.5 60' times in an M6, though.

 

"The 4L60E is based on...you guessed it the TH350."

Please explain how you came to this statement.

Thanks! <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">

 

[quote]Originally posted by 99 Black Bird T/A:
<strong>The 4L60E is based on...you guessed it the TH350.

</strong><hr></blockquote>


Um, no its not.
<img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
The 4l60E is an electronic 700r4. Nothing more, nothing less.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Trevor D:
[QB]
I don't know what gear ratio you're looking to go with, but my same friend has Moser's 12-bolt with 4.10's, and the gears whine like a cat in heat. It's taken the abuse of low 1.5 60' times in an M6, though.
__________________________________________________

I'm keeping my 3.23's, gonna use a 2800 or 3000 stall. I'm trying to keep it more streetable than "trackable" if you will! So this with the Moser 12", Eaton posi, 33 spline??????

Hows this rear set-up sound? Should hold up right?

Quickin

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Colonel:
<strong>"The 4L60E is based on...you guessed it the TH350."

Please explain how you came to this statement.

Thanks! <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0"></strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Jims 98 Z28:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 99 Black Bird T/A:
<strong>The 4L60E is based on...you guessed it the TH350.

</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Um, no its not.
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
The 4l60E is an electronic 700r4. Nothing more, nothing less.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The 4L60E is based on the 700R4. The 700R4 is an overdrive (4 speed) trans based on the 350. Take a 4L60 apart and you will see that most of the internals, except for the different valve body (needed for the lockup, electronic controls, and 4th gear) and the obviouis extra clutch packs and gears and you have yourself a TH350. The 4L60 also does away with the governer system and TV cable pressure regulator controls, valves, etc and replaces them with electric solenoids. Mechanicly, they are VERY identical. There are many small "updates" to the parts but overall they are 90% similar.

The 4L80E is the same story... basicly based on the TH400 with an overdrive, lockup converter, and electronic valvebody.

 

I have about 150 passes at 370rwhp on motor and about 30 passes at 465-500rwhp on a 75/100 shot on slicks. My stock 4L60E still shifts like brand new but I have a deep tranny pan and good cooler.

 

Well, we're building a 4L80E for my car very soon, already have a 2001 tranny and have access to more cores at a great price, we are going to beef it up with some upgraded parts, to handle 300% more torque than stock, I'm going to use the TCI Trans controller and either a custom PI convertor and a MidWest unit, 9.5 to 10" with a triple disk lock up, should hold on my 400 cu in highly boosted twin turbo motor 800hp or so...