Black Sunshine/ 00SS

iTrader: (1)

Why not look at getting & installing the factory option cooler? Check with some of our sponsors, I beieve you should be able to find something. Someone give him a part # so he can do some calling around. remember, when getting prices from your local GM dealer, that price is not written in stone, dont be afraid to ask for a better price. If they say no, then tell them you'll buy it down the street. Good luck.

Brother J

Perma-Cool PRM-1003 (Frame Rail Tranny Cooler), from Summit for 34.95. 2 row 24" long and mounts up perfectly using the existing screws that mount the front air dam. Tucks up out of the way, but in the incoming airstream to keep the PS fluid cool. Had mine on for a year now. Works great.

Wicked 3800 V6

As I'm going to be doing some autocrossing soon, i'd like to do this relatively cheap ($40ish) mod. I feel capable of cutting and rerouting some power steering lines / etc. (warn me if this is dangerous). Should I add a gauge for the PS-Fluid temperature? How about a little fan on it? My main question is: Where should I mount it? Reply with your experiences ...
LS1.COM's install has it zip-tied to the A/C Condenser
http://www.ls1.com/link_pscooler.htm

Para.noid.org has it in the lower front of the radiator (mounted on some metal there)
http://para.noid.org/pscooler/

go-fast.org has it behind the radiator (drilled into metal there):
http://www.go-fast.org/z28/pscool.html

This is going to be a fun winter project ...
I'm looking for about 95% performance / better cooling and maybe 5% show ... And if it works i'll do an oil cooler sometime ... Thanks!

-Rob

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

[quote]Originally posted by Brother J:
<strong>Perma-Cool PRM-1003 (Frame Rail Tranny Cooler), from Summit for 34.95. 2 row 24" long and mounts up perfectly using the existing screws that mount the front air dam. Tucks up out of the way, but in the incoming airstream to keep the PS fluid cool. Had mine on for a year now. Works great.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Ditto ...
Only I mounted mine BEHIND the air dam. The radiant cooling of the fins is plenty to keep the fluid cool, especially in a 24x2 cooler.

Also, flush the sterring hydraulic system out with Redline synthetic PS fluid and every 4 ot 6 months, drain the reservoir and replanish with fresh fluid.

I also run my fluid level at the "ADD" mark all the time. I don't have the "puking out the lid" problem experienced by many.

As far as the WS6/SS in-line cooler, to run FS and be legal, you'll have to do it this way. However, that cooler is a 6", 2 pass cooler in fast moving, 200 degree water. I don't how there is much heat transfer going on ...

roy

Regards to the WS6/SS Cooler
I have yet to have a problem but I do think a couple of people have.

Glenn98ZM6

mine is like the 3rd link, aslo the way mitch did his. but i used the same cooler but with AN fittings and braided stainless line. works great and i dont have the wholes cut in the air dam yet. but i will soon.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

I don't push my power steering that hard but my car came with the factory cooler. I would guess it works (better than not having anything). I would think the best would be to have the fluid go through the factory first (cools a little) then pass through the Perma-Cool. That would really keep the temp down.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I stand corrected ...

After the last session at a road course, I checked my PS coolant temps with a laser pyrometer and saw 190-210.

I checked 2 other F-Bods with the factory cooler and they were in the 170 range.

We were all running very similar lap times.

So, it appears, that in my configuration the radiant cooling is not that great. I am gonna drill some holes in the air dam and see if that helps.