Question about Drivability..
Question about Drivability.. since this hasnt gotten any respones in a dif thread...here it is...
i got a 2000 z28 A4 3.23s...right now its got LTs, y pipe, cat back, and Lid on the way..eventually ill get an LS6 intake, TB etc...basic boltons...this car is going to be my DAILY DRIVER and i want it very reliable but also have some giddy-up...do you guys recommend keeping the 3.23s or swapping to 3.73s. this car will see SOME TRACK. i drive on the highway some times mostly city driving though...i was also thinking about putting in a 3000 TC...any suggestions would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! THANK YOU
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i got a 2000 z28 A4 3.23s...right now its got LTs, y pipe, cat back, and Lid on the way..eventually ill get an LS6 intake, TB etc...basic boltons...this car is going to be my DAILY DRIVER and i want it very reliable but also have some giddy-up...do you guys recommend keeping the 3.23s or swapping to 3.73s. this car will see SOME TRACK. i drive on the highway some times mostly city driving though...i was also thinking about putting in a 3000 TC...any suggestions would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! THANK YOU
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i could see how that would be better...but if im RARELY going to launch my car....(street/track) wouldnt it be more beneficial to get gears? i mean over here in seattle so far prob like 80%+ of my races have been from rolls...what would be the benefits of getting a stall other then being able to launch better/harder?
You'll see more gain from the stall but the loose feeling isn't for everyone. The louder the car is the more it can be bothersome. I didn't care for the loose feeling of a converter, mine have been pretty big though(3800 and 4000). A lot of people say you get used to it. I never did but my car is very loud. I just put in 4.11s and it is much better for driving around in town. I havn't had it on the freeway yet but I do more driving on side streets so I don't really care how it is on the freeway. The new gears should help at the track too.
If your car isn't too loud I would think your best bet would be a nice stall 3000-3500. Are you keeping cats and what kind of exhaust will tell alot. For the highway a stall should be fine even if the car is loud because it will lock up and go back to normal rpms. The gears will be worse drivability wise on the highway. Plus if the stall is too loose for you you could always change the gears to help.
If your car isn't too loud I would think your best bet would be a nice stall 3000-3500. Are you keeping cats and what kind of exhaust will tell alot. For the highway a stall should be fine even if the car is loud because it will lock up and go back to normal rpms. The gears will be worse drivability wise on the highway. Plus if the stall is too loose for you you could always change the gears to help.
I just read your new post, if you want to keep up with manuals roll racing, your going to need a much larger stall. Gears will help too but the best thing you can do for an a4 if you like to roll race is a huge stall. Not the best for drivability though. I think you should have got an m6 lol, j/k.
ya i wish i could get an m6 
but the A4 was available...its a good trade too 
black 2000 z28 42k miles on it a4 completely stock leather interior its a nice car.right now i have a 1983 z28 350(carbed),5 speed 3.73s and its very good city/highway driving..i have Pacesetter LTs, TSP Catted Y, and Hooker cat back on the way right now...(actually J/K since texas speed has sold out of Pacesetters so i gota wait 2 weeks) the car shuoldnt be THAT loud...yah i guess i would probably go with a 3000-3200 stall...i dont see me needing to go much higher than that...and whats the "loose" feeling your talking about?
but the A4 was available...its a good trade too black 2000 z28 42k miles on it a4 completely stock leather interior its a nice car.right now i have a 1983 z28 350(carbed),5 speed 3.73s and its very good city/highway driving..i have Pacesetter LTs, TSP Catted Y, and Hooker cat back on the way right now...(actually J/K since texas speed has sold out of Pacesetters so i gota wait 2 weeks) the car shuoldnt be THAT loud...yah i guess i would probably go with a 3000-3200 stall...i dont see me needing to go much higher than that...and whats the "loose" feeling your talking about? Yeah your setup won't be too loud at all, hooker sounds real nice. The loose feeling is when the converter is unlocked, it takes more gas/rpms, depending on how high the stall is and the str, to get going because its "stalling" the power. Once you get up to speed it will lockup and the rpms will drop down to normal. Now if you just slam on the gas from a stop or from a roll it will flash up to your stall rpm. Thats why they help so much, they get you right in the power band. You can also brake stall to launch from a stop. Traction permiting, you can hold the brake down and give it gas to raise your rpms to your stall speed without spinning the tires. Most people launch this way at the track.
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thank you so much for your help ruf i appreciate it..i have another quick question.. heres what i plan on doing..
Pacesetter LTS, tsp catted y, hooker cat, ls6 intake, ported TB, lid, k&n,MAF...for now...would you go with a 3000, 3200 or what? i wouldnt wana go much higher than 3200...during the upcoming summer I MIGHT POSSIBLY install a nice mild cam...nothing crazy... what would you suggest?
and again thank you for your help
Pacesetter LTS, tsp catted y, hooker cat, ls6 intake, ported TB, lid, k&n,MAF...for now...would you go with a 3000, 3200 or what? i wouldnt wana go much higher than 3200...during the upcoming summer I MIGHT POSSIBLY install a nice mild cam...nothing crazy... what would you suggest?
and again thank you for your help
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nice mild cam, 3200 stall would be perfect. Skip the k&n and MAF. The k&n has been known to do more harm than good with the oil you have to use on it. It gets into the maf sensor and can really screw up readings. A good paper filter would be a better idea.
I don't know anyone who has benfited at all from a larger MAF or ported MAF ends running bolt ons and a mild cam. Again, more headache than it's worth. Tuning with a larger MAF can be a giant pain in the *** from what I hear. I got rid of my 85mm before the cam, so I don't know personally.
If you want tightness around town, consider upping the str on the verter. Around 2.4ish. You can skip the gears, otherwise with that high of an str I promise you will not have ANY traction on street tires.
Talk to John at Fuddle Racing, 801-368-9655, he's a sponsor and a bad ***.
I don't know anyone who has benfited at all from a larger MAF or ported MAF ends running bolt ons and a mild cam. Again, more headache than it's worth. Tuning with a larger MAF can be a giant pain in the *** from what I hear. I got rid of my 85mm before the cam, so I don't know personally.
If you want tightness around town, consider upping the str on the verter. Around 2.4ish. You can skip the gears, otherwise with that high of an str I promise you will not have ANY traction on street tires.
Talk to John at Fuddle Racing, 801-368-9655, he's a sponsor and a bad ***.
BTW, Fuddle has an HP/Street series converter for $555. The verter has a billet cover to fit a fatter lockup clutch. If you want to run any type of cam, I'd recommend spending the extra $155 to ensure your lock-up lasts a good long time.
thanks for the advice! i would much rather have some DECENT traction with street tires.....i was thinking about getting Nitto 555rs out back though.....but again thats in the future..when i get some $$$
Originally Posted by sidewayz28
thanks for the advice! i would much rather have some DECENT traction with street tires.....i was thinking about getting Nitto 555rs out back though.....but again thats in the future..when i get some $$$
You need to ride in someones car with a stall so you can see what you are looking at. my Precision 3200 felt like stock driving normally....my 3800 was too loud for me. Everyone is different though so thats why i said find one to ride in
Kpowr82, how are you liking that tranny?
Kpowr82, how are you liking that tranny?
Originally Posted by cablebandit
You need to ride in someones car with a stall so you can see what you are looking at. my Precision 3200 felt like stock driving normally....my 3800 was too loud for me. Everyone is different though so thats why i said find one to ride in
Kpowr82, how are you liking that tranny?
Kpowr82, how are you liking that tranny?
I'll be putting it in on Sunday, but unfortuantely I won't get to drive it cause of all the snow out here. It took a real long time to get the trans so I missed the end of the driving season here in MI. I can't wait to get it going though. The good thing is, I can perfect my idle over the winter, so It's one less thing I gotta worry about come next spring. A shift kit is worth every single penny! I wish I had gotten a shift kit and a basic tune to adjust my shift points and timing after my verter. I may not have needed the rebuild this summer
The shift kit will eliminate the extra slipping you'll experience after the lighter verter goes in. Also, it will eliminate the 1-2 shift flair that'll eat your clutches for breakfast. Another advantage to installing the shift kit is that by drilling larger feed holes in the valve body "oil feed plate"(?? sorry don't know the real name), it'll allow for better fluid flow.
The shift kit will eliminate the extra slipping you'll experience after the lighter verter goes in. Also, it will eliminate the 1-2 shift flair that'll eat your clutches for breakfast. Another advantage to installing the shift kit is that by drilling larger feed holes in the valve body "oil feed plate"(?? sorry don't know the real name), it'll allow for better fluid flow.
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 224
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From: Monticello, MN
Originally Posted by kpowr82
A shift kit is worth every single penny! I wish I had gotten a shift kit and a basic tune to adjust my shift points and timing after my verter. I may not have needed the rebuild this summer
The shift kit will eliminate the extra slipping you'll experience after the lighter verter goes in. Also, it will eliminate the 1-2 shift flair that'll eat your clutches for breakfast. Another advantage to installing the shift kit is that by drilling larger feed holes in the valve body "oil feed plate"(?? sorry don't know the real name), it'll allow for better fluid flow.
The shift kit will eliminate the extra slipping you'll experience after the lighter verter goes in. Also, it will eliminate the 1-2 shift flair that'll eat your clutches for breakfast. Another advantage to installing the shift kit is that by drilling larger feed holes in the valve body "oil feed plate"(?? sorry don't know the real name), it'll allow for better fluid flow.
Can LS1Edit essentially do the same thing as a shift kit through the computer...i.e.eliminate shift flair, slipping, etc.? Thanks!
Ed
Originally Posted by C5XTASY
Can LS1Edit essentially do the same thing as a shift kit through the computer...i.e.eliminate shift flair, slipping, etc.? Thanks!
Ed
Ed
