dyers98

Was hoping for the sacred .50 or better. The more I read people's post on here about what they gain the more BS I smell. With all the bolt on-s I've done so far the car has only ran a best of 12.90@103. The car is fine, runs strong and has low miles. It was pretty hot and muggy but .25 is pretty weak for all the hype about doing a converter.

Thoughts?

blkZ28spt

Hot and muggy will kill power.

What was your 60'?

What was the weather the last time you ran?



My untuned 98, in hot weather, on nitto drag radials (terrible 2.0 60') with 3500 stall speed converter, longtubes, duals, CAI and lid only ran 12.9.











Your car is apparently untuned, possibly a poor 60' and being run in hot and muggy weather. Don't sweat it. Remove some weight, make sure you have a very sticky tire and try again in the fall when it's cool and dry.

dyers98

running MT drag radials, tuned (not after the converter) with 1.79 60'. I was just hoping for a solid 12.70. I'll try another time

blkZ28spt

Do you know what kind of power it puts down?

Exactly how hot and muggy was it? That can really cut you down

dyers98

it's all stock internals. I would say i'm around 315-320 to the ground. It was about 82 degree's and Iowa humidity? Does weather make that much diff. I know it affects some but 3/10th's?

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

1.79 is a lousy 60' for a stalled auto

Drew778

iTrader: (2)

How are you launching, RPM's?

Are you still spinning? How good of a burn out do you do?

You should see atleast low 1.7's

Did you delete the torque management?

blkZ28spt

Weather can do 0.3.


My 60's with almost identical mods to you, after I switched to ET streets, removed the front sway bar and heated the the tires up properly (I hadn't been heating the nittos properly) were 1.72.

SSPEEDY

iTrader: (4)

dyers98, do not be discouraged. Weather can have a huge impact on et's and trap speed. Prime example: last August I ran my car on an 87 degree day. It was humid outside, I'm not sure what the DA was. Anyhow, two runs on that hot day and my ET's were 12.3 followed by a 12.5 after a cooldown period. My trap speeds were 109 and 108 respectively. Just a few months later in 50 degree temps, I pulled consistent 12.0's and 12.1's. Traps would range between 111-112. 60ft times were between 1.71 and 1.73 on the hot day and 1.66-1.70 on the cooler day.

The Vig is worth .5 in the quarter mile easy if the track conditions are identical.

ABA383

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I got .5 with my 3600 switching from an LPE 11"...Weather effect is huge! I've been .3-.4 down in weather...How are you launching the car? I found that the Vig likes an off idle launch. I don't build any rpm. Just hold the car from rolling forward and flash it...I went 1.55s all day long last year on lil M/T 255 Radials...We'll see what Bogarts and 275 50 R15s do this year...

--Alan

Bryan @ Speed Inc.

iTrader: (19)

flashing is the way to go. i only stall up the converter if i DONT want to launch as hard.

redformulaws6

iTrader: (9)

practice your launching, i use to stall up too high with my 3200. almost up to 3000 and let loose. The tires would spin bad...hitting 12.9'a at times. After practicing some luanching, i found my launching rpm. which is 2250-2350 and i kinda roll into it but punch it at the same time, its hard to explain in words. Then i upgraded my 98 ls1 manifold to a lingerfelter...after that, i was hitting 12.5's and i could definietly feel the car pull had out of the hole. try brake stalling it to 2300rpms and then tap the peddle a little bit, and then slam it, and make sure you have the traction switch off (that could make a world of difference)

s346k

iTrader: (4)

sounds to me like you need to change your launch technique.

i cut .55 off of my 1/8 mile with just a 4k stall and sticky tires.

redsscamaroboy

iTrader: (7)

Just like

Quote:

s346k

I dropped from a- 8.5 (2.00 60ft)
to a- 7.8 (1.61 60ft)
with a 4000rpm stall and Nitto's.

Just practice your launch and get it dialed in,you probably still have not found all it has to gain.
For what it's worth i did not gain a thing after adding my LT's and Y-pipe,nothing all motor or on the spray. Just means i need a tune pretty bad yet, not that LT's are just not worth it.

Good luck Dave

HD1911

iTrader: (13)

ok, the tuner that i am ordering it from said, "it doesnt need to be tuned just for putting in a torque converter...." WTF is that ****?? maybe that is why its 100 bucks for a mail order tune. So please tell, what really needs to be changed in the tune for adding a torque converter?? thanks, cause i should be getting my Yank SS3600 soon and putting MAC and ORY on and i want the car to be tuned for that combo. Dyers98, sorry not trying to take away from your post, but this was an oppurtunity for me to chime in on the same subject and get my learn on. thanks guys

dyers98

No worries. I do agree I have no technique on my launch, just got the stall in a few days ago. I basically just held the brake the and stomped the gas on green. Thought I was heating the tires up but who knows. I am going to have the tune looked at by a friend and see what's going in the computer. I wish I had the time to practice my launches. At the track here you are lucky to get in three pulls a night. Hope to get that 12.70 soon.

blkZ28spt

Could you see smoke in your mirror(s)?

What PSI were you running?

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

I went from 13.4 lid/catback on a cool day to 13.05 with converter/DR's first time out on a warm muggy day. Got down to 12.98 the next two times, similar weather. Finally got a cool day and dropped to 12.61. DA is a huge factor.

SSPEEDY

iTrader: (4)

Delete the torque management and upping the shift points.

When i was converter/lid/cutout only I had to go to the dealership for some warranty work. I already had a basic tune (shift points, TM delete, lower fan settings) and one of the techs told me he'll install necessary computer updates. I said ok. Well, when I went and picked up my car I found out that my custom tune had been reflashed and set back to stock! Anyway, I take the car for a ride and mash the gas, on the 1-2 shift i keep hitting the rev limiter (stock shift point) before it shifts and when it does it feels like it's losing power during shifts (torque management kicking in).

HD1911

iTrader: (13)

Thank you SSPEEDY! I am getting a mail order tune from Wait4me Performance. Jesse said that his tunes are already set up for that kind of stuff. He was like, his tunes learn from blah blah blah.....he said he only changes some things around if you have cam, heads. So basically i guess, everyone with an LS1 f-body is getting one universal, do-it-all tune??? is this right??? I mid lengths, ory, descreened maf, 3600 stall, and bolt ons and he is telling me that i get the same tune as something say with only a ******* cat-back?? is this right??