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Vig 3200 just installed

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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 05:42 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 1fastz
nothing wrong with going bigger than a 3200... nobody should get anything less than a 3200, it would be a complete waste of money. I have a 3200 stall and i love it. If i could.. i would have bought a bigger stall if i would have known how driveable stalls are, but then again... i got a good *** deal on the 3200.
likewise
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 1fastz
nothing wrong with going bigger than a 3200... nobody should get anything less than a 3200, it would be a complete waste of money. I have a 3200 stall and i love it. If i could.. i would have bought a bigger stall if i would have known how driveable stalls are, but then again... i got a good *** deal on the 3200.
Vig 3200 shouldn't be compared to other manufacturer's 3200. It's more like 3500-3600. Vig 2800 is 3000-3200.
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 10:40 PM
  #23  
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glad to see you like it. I ordered the vig 3200 about two weeks ago and I'm still waiting for it to come in.
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 06:51 PM
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See,....Im try'n to decide. I have 1K to mess arround with and im debating between 1.) 3200-3600 stall conv
2.) a ZEX nitrous system
3.) LT's w/ Y-pipe

2000 WS6 T/A
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Blk/Blk
MODS: Cold Air free-mod, K&N filter, SLP Air Lid, SLP 85mm MAF, SLP Smooth Bellows, EGR free mod, SLP LoudMouth and DiabloSport w/SLP tune
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 12:02 PM
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If the Vig3200 does stall higher than I will prob stick with it then, Im pretty sure Im getting a cam swapped in around the same time was recommended a tr224 but will prob go bigger than that . I think im gonna hold off on the 3:73s and I might add a 100- 125 shot. Can the Vig handle the nitrious?(im sure it can as much as it is but just thought id ask), and if the 10bolt ever breaks I will just get the 3:73s with the new Rear.

WS6Rampage, If you got around a 1K to mess with you can prob pick 2 out of the 3 u just listed. The Pacesetter LTs and ORY sell right at $500 for the package together. and I know the ZEX kit is around $500 for the kit and most torque converts are around $500 BRANDS like TCI,Fuddle, and Edge. I dont have my converter yet but I know your gonna need a Tranny cooler thats another $50-60, and from what I hear the Trans Go shift kit is good to install when you do the torque converter its around $100 extra.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 02:28 PM
  #26  
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how is the tightness on this converter and what is your gearing?

i'm trying to gauge what is tighter, a vig converter or a yank converter of same performance. i may want to go converter in the future but i never want to change my 2.73's for fuel, traction and parts-friendliness (i.e. the 10-bolt) reasons. i'd likely get a 3500 vig or yank 3600. i mean, they're around the same damn price range, why skimp over $50 at this point?
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Old Jul 25, 2006 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
how is the tightness on this converter and what is your gearing?

i'm trying to gauge what is tighter, a vig converter or a yank converter of same performance. i may want to go converter in the future but i never want to change my 2.73's for fuel, traction and parts-friendliness (i.e. the 10-bolt) reasons. i'd likely get a 3500 vig or yank 3600. i mean, they're around the same damn price range, why skimp over $50 at this point?
my Vig 3600 w/lockup should be here tomorrow, I'll definitly post up what I think about it. I'll get a good video of the guage cluster cruising and driving like all hell to give you an idea of flash, slip etc. I know I would have liked to have known a little more detail before I bought one. It's a big purchase and how it will react on the street is a big deal, you don't want pull the tranny and experiment 2-3 times with diff stalls. It should go in thurs and the tune is on the 2nd.
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 07:37 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Charlie Hustle
another question....my mods are in my sig, and my car is UNtunned. my friends ss is a m6 with long tubes, lid, off road y pipe, cat back, and its tunned. does our race sound about right? he beat me by about 1/2 a car. 30mph-105pmh. thanks in advance
Yeah, a half car from a roll with a 6spd is very respectable, especially since you ran it up to 105. Now if you would have gone from a dead stop i'd be willing to bet you would've won.
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 10:31 PM
  #29  
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^ what kind of tires were you running when you ran that 12.6?
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 11:01 PM
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I have a Yank 3500 2.5 STR and it is very tight.....when I first got it in and drove it I wrote in that it took about 2200 to get moving and 2500 to stay with traffic. Now that I am used to it, I can creep around in the neighborhood at 1500 and stay below 2000 going to work. I drive 2 miles and never go over 35. In 3rd it locks between 25-30 MPH and in 4th it locks at 35. It still takes about 2500 to stay with traffic. When cruising around at 35-40 MPH and going WOT it flashes to 4200-4500 RPM's and shift extension is 5100. I lost 1-2 MPG. Now I am talking to Yank about restalling to 4K. I would go with a 3600 or bigger. Very streetable and after a week or so, it feels normal. I can't imagine driving a stock stalled car now.
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 11:05 PM
  #31  
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the Vig3200 is a great all around stall. I've outgrown it now that i have h/c and a 12 bolt but i've put 24k daily driven/cruised/street raced/tarck raced miles on it without one single issue. If you are considering this converter for a daily driver/strip car you can't go wrong. If you want to hook at the track you will need sticky tires. I managed 1.80 my first time out with street tires. 1.70 with headers and sticky tires.

With my b&m cooler i've had no trans temp issues. I never installed a temp guage as it was not needed. Accoring to my scanner it would only reach 180 ish hot lapping at the track.
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 11:28 PM
  #32  
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DO the converter first!! Of course, those mods can help you alot too, but its all about getting off the line, if your off the line first, you have a waaaay better chance of winning than playing catch up with the zex kit or LT;s, add the stall, then the LTs and nitrous, and you'll be killin people

Originally Posted by WS6Rampage
See,....Im try'n to decide. I have 1K to mess arround with and im debating between 1.) 3200-3600 stall conv
2.) a ZEX nitrous system
3.) LT's w/ Y-pipe

2000 WS6 T/A
4L60E
Blk/Blk
MODS: Cold Air free-mod, K&N filter, SLP Air Lid, SLP 85mm MAF, SLP Smooth Bellows, EGR free mod, SLP LoudMouth and DiabloSport w/SLP tune
Reply
Old Jul 27, 2006 | 05:47 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Charlie Hustle
^ what kind of tires were you running when you ran that 12.6?
some crappy bald nittos on 16" firebird rims that a local club member gave to me, they hooked just fine for me
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 07:56 PM
  #34  
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The vig3200 is a well balance converter. I've been able to manage numerous 1.5s 60fts with good weather & during the heat of the summer low 1.6s all day long. This is with alot of supporting mods, Prostars, MT drs, Skinneys, !power steering, & all the bmr stuff. There are better race converters out there but the vig3200 does just fine.

Have fun.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 08:28 PM
  #35  
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my vig flashes at 3800 with my mods (bolt ons, cam, tune). best 60ft (several consistent ones) were 1.66's with a dead hook one after the other on 17" dr's. I am limited in the 60ft by gearing and/or raceweight (which is 3700lbs). I'm hoping to better those numbers when i try running the car with the heads. The STR is only a 2.17 so it won't hit as hard as say a yank ss3600 or a yank ss3800.
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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 12:48 AM
  #36  
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having my vig 2800 reburned to 3200 by john goebel should I do 3400 or 3500?? MODS IN SIG
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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 09:50 PM
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Gun5, i haven't been overly impressed with the step from the vig3200 to vig3600 results i've seen on here. The vig3200 has a 94% efficiency rating compared to 90% for the 3600 (which if i remember is around an actual 4400 stall).
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