Stall
Stall Alrite, I'm town between getting long tubes or a stall. I have a 3" Magnaflow Catback right now and I wanted to finish the exhaust, BUT everybody says a stall will be much better and make my car a damn rocket.
Headers and ORY is about 600$ with gaskets,etc. .. My work charges 300$ labor to put in a stall converter does that sound reasonable? Plus whatever the stall costs. Ive been reading everybody says 3500-4000 stalls are good but I talked with a shop manager and he said OverDrive tran's dont like those high of stalls without a big gear in it he said between 2400-2800 would be best I would think that would be a waste of money. He said anything like 3200+ will take gas and rev up to get moving..is that true?
I want my car to feel like a damn slingshot and I am going to be running Nitto DR's outback, I hardly track it mostly low mph roll racing and some digs.
What should I do here? I daily drive my car, ALOT and have 3.73's out back so keep that in mind. However I am sick of gettign raped by 6 speeds.
PS- If it affects what size, I am also running a NX 100 wet shot.
Thanks,
Chad
Headers and ORY is about 600$ with gaskets,etc. .. My work charges 300$ labor to put in a stall converter does that sound reasonable? Plus whatever the stall costs. Ive been reading everybody says 3500-4000 stalls are good but I talked with a shop manager and he said OverDrive tran's dont like those high of stalls without a big gear in it he said between 2400-2800 would be best I would think that would be a waste of money. He said anything like 3200+ will take gas and rev up to get moving..is that true?
I want my car to feel like a damn slingshot and I am going to be running Nitto DR's outback, I hardly track it mostly low mph roll racing and some digs.
What should I do here? I daily drive my car, ALOT and have 3.73's out back so keep that in mind. However I am sick of gettign raped by 6 speeds.
PS- If it affects what size, I am also running a NX 100 wet shot.
Thanks,
Chad
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
I actually did hedders first but when i did the stall much more of aseat of the pants feel.I would def.do stall first.I have a3500 stall(tci).The diff. between that and stock is that the stocker locked right away(around 1000rpm).So if in park the n put in drive started rolling right away,but with the stall sometimes had to give it a little gas.It would not go strait to 3500 rpm can still cruise around 1200 200 rpm just kike the stocker the diff. was when you floored it it was and still is arocket.Just make sure you get atranny cooler to go with it(a must).Then keep an eye on fluids the next couple of days to make sure that enough fluids were put back in(see owners manual on how to if your not sure).I have had mine since january no problems.Now Im just debating between n2o or a cam.Yesterday I bought new tranny pan with cooling fins($60 jegs) did not do it with the stall but figure if Im ready to step up the power a little extra cheap insurance. Good luck with your decision hope this helps you out and you have any more questions pm me.
john
john
Go big or go home...I've had a 3400, 3500, and a 3800 all with different STR's. My 3800/2.2 STR is my absolute favorite. Basically stock driveability and jumps up to a hiar under 4K when I floor it. How can I complain? As far as gears, I ahve a 3.73...I don't know if that's 'big' but its a perfect match with the stall.
I did headers first. I suggest doing the headers and stall within a short time of each other so you can get it tuned once, save some bucks. That's worth a second off the quarter mile(w/the tune). It was in my case. Pick your cam first so you know what range you want in your stall. 3600 is just a very slight annoyance in stop and go. Liveable/driveable at least. As for mpg, you'll break even with a stall and headers. 4k would be too big of a stall for my daily driving.
