will a stall kill my tranny?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
will a stall kill my tranny? i have a stock car (w/ a B&M cooler installed) that i take extremely good care of, that i use as a daily driver, would a 3K stall kill the tranny or my drive train?
also how many miles have people put on a stock tranny w/ stall?
also how many miles have people put on a stock tranny w/ stall?
I have had a stall since my car had 10K on it. It now has 29K and still going. I have pushed this stock tranny to 11.03 with just a Transgo Shift kit and Fuddle 4000 converter. I went with a TCI SSF 3500 for my first stall. I had a cam and headers on the car then. If you are just staying mostly stock then I would step down to a 3000 stall. If you ever plan on heads, cam, and gears then go ahead with a 3500 stall. Yank, TCI, and Vigilante seem to have good reps when it comes to converters.
It puts a higher duty cycle on the rest of the drivetrain. More engine revs, more time at higher torque for the trans and rear end, more wheelspin on your tires and more peak loading into your rear suspension and mounts.
Is it harder on the equipment? Absolutely. Does it really matter in terms of the chances of something breaking anything? A little, but how much depends on too many factors.
It's a statistical problem. If you built up 200 cars that were identical except 100 were stalled and 100 were factory - you would see a correlation where the stalled cars suffered from more drivetrain problems. I have no doubt at all about that, you would see it, but I can't say how much.
The problem is there is so much variation in these things already that you can't really place an accurate estimate for any single person. I had a 4L60 in my 93 LT1 - it got a B&M shift kit at 30k miles. I drove that car like I stole it every day and at 160k miles it was still barking 1-2's just fine. The second owner reported it running strong at 190k. Some people break 10 bolts on the street in 500 miles. Some people run them for 100k miles. There are so many influences in usage and manufacturing "luck" it's impossible to say for sure.
The best advice I can give you here is that if you can't afford to deal with the problems (both financially and in loss of use) if something does go wrong, then it probably isn't a mod you should do.
No mod is fully risk free, but there are definitely varying levels of risk, and everyone's tolerance for this risk is different.
Is it harder on the equipment? Absolutely. Does it really matter in terms of the chances of something breaking anything? A little, but how much depends on too many factors.
It's a statistical problem. If you built up 200 cars that were identical except 100 were stalled and 100 were factory - you would see a correlation where the stalled cars suffered from more drivetrain problems. I have no doubt at all about that, you would see it, but I can't say how much.
The problem is there is so much variation in these things already that you can't really place an accurate estimate for any single person. I had a 4L60 in my 93 LT1 - it got a B&M shift kit at 30k miles. I drove that car like I stole it every day and at 160k miles it was still barking 1-2's just fine. The second owner reported it running strong at 190k. Some people break 10 bolts on the street in 500 miles. Some people run them for 100k miles. There are so many influences in usage and manufacturing "luck" it's impossible to say for sure.
The best advice I can give you here is that if you can't afford to deal with the problems (both financially and in loss of use) if something does go wrong, then it probably isn't a mod you should do.
No mod is fully risk free, but there are definitely varying levels of risk, and everyone's tolerance for this risk is different.
Last edited by todddchi; Sep 22, 2006 at 08:18 AM.
