If you plan and lighteneing the car more in the future and making more of drag car out of it you may want to try the glide also.

Not trying to confuse you but its something you only want to do once. Crossmember, shifter, converter, driveshaft etc is all different so its a rough decision. But you cant go really wrong with the 400 and you arent looking at something that is going to make a 1/2 second difference..

 

I maybe be able to make it lighter, but maybe to around 3600lbs or so. I dont think the race weight is going to be less than 3500lbs ever.

The heavy weight comes from
130lbs in blower and piping
90lbs in iron block
30lbs in AFR heads
10lbs in Optima Yellow Top Battery
20lbs in strange 12 bolt (Adding Dana 60 with Spool and 3.55 gears 20lbs more)
15lbs in steel drive shaft

Total around 295lbs and adding that on top of the 3400lbs staring weight will take me to 3700lbs without a driver. Im 250lbs so that is 3950lbs now.

For weight savings im doing:
K-Member 35lbs
Prostars wheels and M/T tires 80-100lbs
Moving Battery to back
TH400 35lbs lighter than T56
A/C out 30lbs
Front bumper support out 20lbs

So that puts me around 3730lbs at best. Its going to be hard to knock off another 200lbs of it thats for sure.

 

I would go to 9" for gear selection if you havent done the rear yet, you cant go lower then a 3.73 with a spool in a 12 bolt. If you want to run bottom 9s with that much weight a 12 bolt wouldnt be my first choice. The 9" I have with aluminum center and drilled axles isnt that much heavier then the 10 bolt with the parking brake stuff.

Moving the battery to the back ADDs weight

Dont forget a roll bar or cage is going to add another 65-130lbs depending what you do. Plus a rear drag sway bar will add 20lbs.

I am at 3400lbs with me in it (I'm 240), it takes a lot of work to get the car that light and still look fairly stock but these cars are pigs to begin with. Remember thoug that not only does lighter weight go quicker it also is a lot easier on drivetrain parts

 

We might try a new Dana 60 by Strange with Spool and 3.55 gears. I will also look into the 9" with spool. Oh yes the rollcage is something that i forgot to calculate

How did u get your car down to 3400lbs with all the stuff on it? If i can at least get mine down to 3500lbs I would be happy.

 

Lot of work but I have seen lighter.

I have the headlight motors, wipers, heat, a/c, stereo, door bars, drag brakes, parking brake gone, aluminum block, light K-memeber, a-arms etc.

Does still have most of the factory wiring, power steering, brakes and a pretty stock looking interior except for the cage and seats though..

 

FYI the Strang S60 comes with a 3.54 rear gear and thats as low as you can go with a spool..... i know i have it......Im a Glide also.....

I narrowed mine 6"s total so i really didnt add much weight......over my Strangw 12 Bolt.

Kev what would you draw the line at for a Glide???? weight wise??

Kyle

 

Its not so much weight its the whole combo, I had a glide working pretty well in a 3800lb car with a 572 and a 250 shot. But if that car had a n/a 468 in it I would rather have the three speed.

Turbo car like yours makes all that boost after you sit on on the 2 step and spool it up and you can really take advantage of the being on the converter that long. A centrifugal blower is really like a big N/A engine as far as the general power curve goes, now a heavier roots car works well with a glide also.

But there are exceptions to everything and some guys do well with heavy cars and peaky n/a engines with glides. Just may take few converter restalls to get it figured out. I love powerglides really, easy to rebuild, light and pretty bulletproof. I used to drive a stock 63 impala SS every day to work and school with a powerglide and a 283 and so did millions of others so they arent bad transmissions to cruise around in, but add that 5000 converter and a loud exhaust and it gets a little annoying