My 1st and only time out with my SS3800 I was just launching off idle basically pre loading just a bit 500-600 RPM?? and I was on some bald nitto 555 (they were free lol) with 18psi and I hooked pretty damn good with about a 7-10 second brunout and I got the #'s in my sig. I was on my way home and I realized that I never tried to stall it up some... doh!!!

 

I footbrake it, it's easier on parts till you beef them up. Also nice to see which rpms you are leaving at as opposed to flooring it and then the rpms fly up but you have to watch the road when you do that, so it's more like you are guessing which rpms the car left at.

 

not if you are logging with HPT. you can watch it all!

 

This is true but some of us don't have that luxury

 

I just got my car back today with the 3600 vig. I think I made a good choice as far as size goes - I don't really think the car drives all that differently around town. I'm glad I didn't go with a 2800 or 3200 like I originally planned. I love the feel of the stall, it rocks. I can't wait to get to the track on saturday.

 

Keep us posted on how you do. What tires are you going with?

John

 

John, I bought some mickey thompson e/t streets. I chose them because I have had them before and I really liked them. Good grip and I felt like they lasted for a while when I put them through their paces. I paid $168/each new on eBay which is a little cheaper than buying them through Discount Tire, who wanted $200/each.

 

ME = jealous

 

Have fun, the converter should open up your eyes from outta the hole.

 

Experiment with slamming it and with brake stalling. I've had converters that responded differently. Being a Vig 3600, brake stalling will probably work best.

 

That is just plain wrong. It is wrong in theory as STR is measured on a converter dyno using the equivalent to a brake stall, and it is wrong in practice as plenty of high performance drag cars use a transbrake.

For a non-transbrake car, experimentation is the best to determine what will give the best 60' given your converter, tires, suspension, and cam profile.

 

You will have to make several passes and see what you prefer. I have noticed that with my car I run better et's when brake stalling it to 2200 of 2300. I get better 60's when I tighten the drivetrain up to 1100 or 1200 and then flash it.......but, I don't get better et's. i guess every car may be diffirent

 

Every car, driver, track and setup is different ... hence why it is crucial for the driver to experiment with different techniques. I am a HUGE supporter of this methodology. One technique does not work for everyone, at every track, on every vehicle, during every climate.

 

What i meant is that u wont have the initial hit that u would from ropping it at idle. It just doesnt hit as hard when u break stall it.

 

i cut 1.7s on street tires with my fuddle. brake-stalled to around 1500-1700 and rolled into full throttle. tried stalling it up to 2500 and spun pretty much all the way down the track...

 

What Ragtop 99 is saying is that regardless of stalling it up to the flash point (the point where the STR is most efficient, or hit the hardest) or going from idle, the STR or initial HIT will hit the same once you reach that RPM. I have tested many converters (on converter dynos and track tested) and that is what you see. In fact there is an SAE spec out there (possibly not available to the public) that clearly defines the nature of STR, based on the design.

 

Mine will hit hard out of the hole but it doesnt pull that well up top.. Is this normal? it just doesn't seem like it pulls as hard up top as it did with the stock stall in it?

 

probably has to do with STR, from what i gather the higher the STR the better the initial hit will be, with a trade-off, you lose some efficiency up top...

 

I've noticed some driveline shock from hitting the converter from idle on lower stall models. That may be what GT Griller is seeing.

BTW, that produced very inconsistent times for me doing that although I think I got a best with that converter using that.