Converters (This should be a sticky)
Converters (This should be a sticky) All I keep seeing in this forum, time and time again is "Which converter should I get"? Why is it such a big deal to call a manufacturer and have one built for your application? IT COSTS THE SAME, and it will be RIGHT (If you choose a good manufacturer). Chances are, they'll have one on the shelf. If not, it doesn't take long to build one. Why guess on it? Every car is different, and something as little as a gear swap, weight, camshaft duration and overlap will change the stall speed. For example, if you have a loose converter with a 3.42 gear, and swap it to a 4.10, the converter will tighten up about 500 rpm (give or take). No two car are exactly alike. The fact is, you aren't gonna get a better converter for your application if you don't get it built for what you have, and what you're doing with the car. I'm not saying that you can't guess, and get it close, but why take the chance when you can do it right the first time for the same price?
I think a lot of people don't understand converters and are looking for a broad base of info when they ask that question. Yes, the manufacturers can tell them what they need, but so can a lot of people on this site. After all, isn't that the purpose of LS1Tech? I don't have a problem with people asking that question. I asked it at one point myself.
Originally Posted by 99Hawk262
I think a lot of people don't understand converters and are looking for a broad base of info when they ask that question. Yes, the manufacturers can tell them what they need, but so can a lot of people on this site. After all, isn't that the purpose of LS1Tech? I don't have a problem with people asking that question. I asked it at one point myself.
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Onalaska, WI
so my question is, what do they know that we dont? Do they have some equation that helps them find the correct stall speed, or is it not really an exact science? and just years of knowing what works instead.
Originally Posted by WE TODD DID
All I keep seeing in this forum, time and time again is "Which converter should I get"? Why is it such a big deal to call a manufacturer and have one built for your application? IT COSTS THE SAME, and it will be RIGHT (If you choose a good manufacturer). Chances are, they'll have one on the shelf. If not, it doesn't take long to build one. Why guess on it? Every car is different, and something as little as a gear swap, weight, camshaft duration and overlap will change the stall speed. For example, if you have a loose converter with a 3.42 gear, and swap it to a 4.10, the converter will tighten up about 500 rpm (give or take). No two car are exactly alike. The fact is, you aren't gonna get a better converter for your application if you don't get it built for what you have, and what you're doing with the car. I'm not saying that you can't guess, and get it close, but why take the chance when you can do it right the first time for the same price?
Originally Posted by WE TODD DID
Sure, but my point it that there are so many little things about a car that will change a converter stall speed. When I order a converter, I am asked every detail about the vehicle. Bore, stroke, rod length, exact compression, valve size, specific camshaft specs, intake, header tube dia, exhaust size, suspension pieces, if it has an anti roll bar, tire size, brand of tire, gear ratio, race weight of vehicle, etc..... There are tons of variables when purchasing a converter. Like I said, you can guess and get it close, but you can't beat a custom built one. I don't care who they are on this forum, but unless they are the ones building the converter, they aren't going to know like the one who is building it.
Maybe your application requires unreasonable precision, but most of us on this board are just street rats, and getting within 300rpm on the stall speed will be good enough.
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I called and had PTC build me a 10" Nitrous converter spec'd out for my set up.Would have it no other way.It only takes a few minutes to call or you can email coverter company's with or specs for the same out come
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some of you guys might not be thinking about the fact that alot of people on this site need a converter to cover a range of mods, and those mods change and ideas for future mods change and plans for the car changes. so for them to spill the details of a car, or uncertain future mods of a car in hopes of getting the best converter isnt always such a good idea. unless they have a plan for the car and stick to it.
i know i bought a "tried and true/nothing special/off the shelf" spec'd converter, a 3400 stall 2.1 STR. and it may not be the 100% best for my mods, but it works pretty damn good, maybe once the car has progressed further towards its final state i'll get a converter custom made with the intent of having the best possible one for my combo...
i know i bought a "tried and true/nothing special/off the shelf" spec'd converter, a 3400 stall 2.1 STR. and it may not be the 100% best for my mods, but it works pretty damn good, maybe once the car has progressed further towards its final state i'll get a converter custom made with the intent of having the best possible one for my combo...
Customizing to the level suggested may be needed for full race, but rarely has a meaningful impact on the street level. For a pretty wide range of weight (from 300lbs of weight removal to full weight verts) and mods (minor bolt-ons to most heads and cam combos), these car run the fastest with a 4000 - 4400 stall. Now there are some wilder cams & intake manifolds that need more stall and the big FI (200+ shot or >10 lbs boost) that need some special consideration.
I seriously doubt that most companies out there can even properly model the effect of the FAST 90mm compared to an LS6 intake or the difference between a TR 224/224 114 cam and an LSK 227/231 112, yet people on here recognize the intangible goals of a person who chooses the 224/224 cam over the 227/231.
The biggest factor facing most buyers is the tradeoff between looseness and performance. The second factor is what tires they will use as this has a major impact on STR selection.
I seriously doubt that most companies out there can even properly model the effect of the FAST 90mm compared to an LS6 intake or the difference between a TR 224/224 114 cam and an LSK 227/231 112, yet people on here recognize the intangible goals of a person who chooses the 224/224 cam over the 227/231.
The biggest factor facing most buyers is the tradeoff between looseness and performance. The second factor is what tires they will use as this has a major impact on STR selection.
Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
Customizing to the level suggested may be needed for full race, but rarely has a meaningful impact on the street level. For a pretty wide range of weight (from 300lbs of weight removal to full weight verts) and mods (minor bolt-ons to most heads and cam combos), these car run the fastest with a 4000 - 4400 stall. Now there are some wilder cams & intake manifolds that need more stall and the big FI (200+ shot or >10 lbs boost) that need some special consideration.
I seriously doubt that most companies out there can even properly model the effect of the FAST 90mm compared to an LS6 intake or the difference between a TR 224/224 114 cam and an LSK 227/231 112, yet people on here recognize the intangible goals of a person who chooses the 224/224 cam over the 227/231.
The biggest factor facing most buyers is the tradeoff between looseness and performance. The second factor is what tires they will use as this has a major impact on STR selection.
I seriously doubt that most companies out there can even properly model the effect of the FAST 90mm compared to an LS6 intake or the difference between a TR 224/224 114 cam and an LSK 227/231 112, yet people on here recognize the intangible goals of a person who chooses the 224/224 cam over the 227/231.
The biggest factor facing most buyers is the tradeoff between looseness and performance. The second factor is what tires they will use as this has a major impact on STR selection.
And every converter company has its good and bad. If everyone went by what others said about the companies, we would all be using stock converters or going to a th350/400/glide. I have seen TCI, Yank, Vig, and Fuddle converters in some very fast cars, but have seen ALL of them fail in mild 12 second cars.
