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4th/OD vibe?

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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 07:12 PM
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Okay, Ill try my best to explain this because it is a little strange. When I'm on the highway cruising at around 65-80, everything is kosher. If I start to give the car gas, no more than 10-15% (barely pushing it in) the car vibrates like its got a jackhammer under it. If I push a little more it goes back to normal. ONLY in 4th/OD, if I downshift it to 3rd it wont do it. I cant really figure out why it would do it at only that amount of gas, and I'm guessing its the trans as its only in that gear. It has only started doing it since I put the poly mount in when the rubber one ripped. So either it did it before and I didn't know or its new. Also, the trans was rebuilt about 4000 mi ago and the fluid is already getting a lot of friction material in it, so I plan to change that this weekend. Anybody have any ideas?
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 07:32 PM
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Take a look at the engine mounts.

It is possible that you are feeling a torque converter shudder. Do this.... while applying enough throttle to exhibit the symptom lightly apply the brake... just enough to disengage lockup. If th eproblem goes away then the issue is definately in the converter. Try that a few times and let us know how it does.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 08:55 PM
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Ill give that a shot. Is lockup disabled if, say, I put it in 3rd? I dont know much about auto trans so Im figuring this out as I go.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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no you can and should leave it in the OD position get to cruising speed where the vibration happens then while holding the throttle opening where this occurs . Very gently use your other foot to apply the brake not enough to slow the car just enough to make the brake lights come on and see if the vibration stops, But pay carefull attention that it just dosent dimish but is still there because and engine miss can also feel like a vibration and will be amplified by the lockup clutch coming on.

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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 11:39 PM
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Alright, took it to the highway and tested it at several different rpm/speed combos. Brakes have no effect on it. I tried 1st and 2nd at low speeds because they work independently and they don't make any vibrations like this one.
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 10:25 AM
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Hmmm ... are you sure it was in lock up? We aren't looking for the brakes to have any effect, we are looking for the brake switch to send a signal to the PCM to release the torque converter solenoid. Brakes only need to be lightly applied, not even enough to slow the car one bit. Just want to be clear there.

Did you inspect the engine mounts?
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Old Jun 21, 2007 | 12:00 PM
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I can't really be sure it was in lockup, this is the first auto car I've ever owned, or driven much of. It goes about 2k rpm at 65mph with 3.23 in the back. Does that sound right? Also, I notice that when I start to hit the brakes at highway speed the car drops to neutral and resumes once I let off the brakes. Yes, engine mounts *look* good, but thats not saying much. The trans mount looked good until I took it off as well. I need a new torque arm bushing but I dont think that has to do with this. Im seriously thinking a 6spd swap instead of getting a new auto for this thing, it drives me nuts. This may have something to do with it: when my buddy rebuilt it (I couldn't afford a professional rebuild, just the kit, he used to be a ford mechanic) he showed me the reverse drum? I think is what it was called, the one that goes over the sunshell with the 2-4 band around it. It looked like someone had spun it with a pile of bolts around it because it was all torn up on the spot where the band goes. We replaced it, but couldnt figure out what caused it to be all beat up like that as there was no metal anything inside the case. Maybe it is doing the same thing again and causing the band to slip or something?
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