Wiring..
Wiring.. Hopefully some of you technical guys can help me here..this is what I got:
LS1 4L60E with a Yank SS3600 Stall
This is what I am looking into. We can set the Stall to lock up at any MPH, and I can isolate the Convertor Clutch Solenoid Wire that does this. The question is if the Solenoid is powered(power sent to open/close it) to have it unlocked, or does it need power to lock it up. Basically how does that circuit work exactly..
The next one is I am looking into dis-abling the 3->2 Shift when you are at WOT at whenever it will shift into 2nd so when I get it on the Dyno it will not backshift and we can get a good run. I believe this one gets power to open up and send Fluid to the right Valves for 2nd, so if I disable it, it won't downshift.
Any one have any ideas...
LS1 4L60E with a Yank SS3600 Stall
This is what I am looking into. We can set the Stall to lock up at any MPH, and I can isolate the Convertor Clutch Solenoid Wire that does this. The question is if the Solenoid is powered(power sent to open/close it) to have it unlocked, or does it need power to lock it up. Basically how does that circuit work exactly..
The next one is I am looking into dis-abling the 3->2 Shift when you are at WOT at whenever it will shift into 2nd so when I get it on the Dyno it will not backshift and we can get a good run. I believe this one gets power to open up and send Fluid to the right Valves for 2nd, so if I disable it, it won't downshift.
Any one have any ideas...
First to get lockup you will need to ground the TAN WIRE WITH THE BLACK STRIP and the DARK BROWN wire at the trans harness, You can also find then at the PCM one is the lockup solenoid the other is PWM this will accomplish what your looking for lockup wise .
Now the other is a bit more complicated uhhooking the 3-2 solenoid wont do it, You might be able to force it to stay in thrid with tuning software but I have heard people have trouble doing that also ,
A simple solution just for the dyno Might be to get a harness connector for the trans thats been cut from a junker and then supply 12 volts to the B+ pink wire then ground the other two wires as mentioned above. That would put you in third gear only at high line and allow you to lock and unlock the converter by grounding those two wires.
Note there are two pink wires if you decide to do that shoot me and email at performabuilt@yahoo.com and ill send a connector diagram so you get the right pink wire.
Now the other is a bit more complicated uhhooking the 3-2 solenoid wont do it, You might be able to force it to stay in thrid with tuning software but I have heard people have trouble doing that also ,
A simple solution just for the dyno Might be to get a harness connector for the trans thats been cut from a junker and then supply 12 volts to the B+ pink wire then ground the other two wires as mentioned above. That would put you in third gear only at high line and allow you to lock and unlock the converter by grounding those two wires.
Note there are two pink wires if you decide to do that shoot me and email at performabuilt@yahoo.com and ill send a connector diagram so you get the right pink wire.
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