Could my converter be slipping like mad?????????
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From: Helendale, Ca (SilverLakes)
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad????????? A Converter that is built too loose will not pull good above 4000 rpm. That was my experience with a 3000 stall 2.0 str. Something was screwed up for sure. My 2400 stall 2.5 str pulls much harder.
thats great! 
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad?????????
A Converter that is built too loose will not pull good above 4000 rpm. That was my experience with a 3000 stall 2.0 str. Something was screwed up for sure. My 2400 stall 2.5 str pulls much harder.
What if I sprayed my motor with a 200 shot up high, would it slip more, defeating the purpose. It sucks to think I can beat a car in the 1/4 by far, but then from 50-150 I get beat.
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad????????? Can my stall be made tighter for top end or am I stuck with this one?
What if I sprayed my motor with a 200 shot up high, would it slip more, defeating the purpose. It sucks to think I can beat a car in the 1/4 by far, but then from 50-150 I get beat.
Personally I would go with a custom Yank or TCS unit. Tell them you want top end efficency.
What if I sprayed my motor with a 200 shot up high, would it slip more, defeating the purpose.
A Converter that is built too loose will not pull good above 4000 rpm. That was my experience with a 3000 stall 2.0 str. Something was screwed up for sure.
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad?????????
The Vig 3600 is a lot of converter for a 436" motor and is notorious for being a great 60' converter but not so great from a roll. Something tighter like restalling to a vig 3200 would definitely help.
When you say re-stalling it, do you mean sending it back to Vig and they change my existing converter?
I'm a total rookie.
Personally I would go with a custom Yank or TCS unit. Tell them you want top end efficency.
You can optimize for the spray OR for NA, but not for both. You must pick your path, grasshopper...
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From: Pontotoc, MS
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad????????? Quickin,
Ragtop99 is right.
The path you choose to take is important! The rpm's does not fall below 5000 on a shift but what do you shift at? Ex. if you shift at 6000 and it falls to 5000, the converter is too loose (too much stall). If spray the motor with the converter with just a 150 shot, the rpm's would not fall on a shift with this converter. This is not to say that this Vig converter is not a good converter, but just the wrong one for your application. Now, if you want a converter that is go to give you the most e.t. (On motor OR N2O) then, you need to call P.I. with info about the motor and setup. Things to let them know:
Cam size
rear gear ratio
hp of motor @ rpm
tq of motor @ rpm
weight of car with you
tire size that you race on
hp of N2O sprayed
Let's get back to the motor or N2O for converter stall size. You cannot have your cake and eat it too. You need to tell P.I. if you max performance with motor or with N2O.
The motor converter will be loser than the N2O converter. If you choose to max on motor:
Motor passes will be faster than with the N20 converter.
N20 passes will be slower than with N20 converter.
The opposite is true if you choose the N2O converter. Good luck on the path of your choice.
Kevin Steele
TCI
Product Engineer
Ragtop99 is right.
The path you choose to take is important! The rpm's does not fall below 5000 on a shift but what do you shift at? Ex. if you shift at 6000 and it falls to 5000, the converter is too loose (too much stall). If spray the motor with the converter with just a 150 shot, the rpm's would not fall on a shift with this converter. This is not to say that this Vig converter is not a good converter, but just the wrong one for your application. Now, if you want a converter that is go to give you the most e.t. (On motor OR N2O) then, you need to call P.I. with info about the motor and setup. Things to let them know:Cam size
rear gear ratio
hp of motor @ rpm
tq of motor @ rpm
weight of car with you
tire size that you race on
hp of N2O sprayed
Let's get back to the motor or N2O for converter stall size. You cannot have your cake and eat it too. You need to tell P.I. if you max performance with motor or with N2O.
The motor converter will be loser than the N2O converter. If you choose to max on motor:
Motor passes will be faster than with the N20 converter.
N20 passes will be slower than with N20 converter.
The opposite is true if you choose the N2O converter. Good luck on the path of your choice.
Kevin Steele
TCI
Product Engineer
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad?????????
Quickin,
Ragtop99 is right. The path you choose to take is important! The rpm's does not fall below 5000 on a shift but what do you shift at? Ex. if you shift at 6000 and it falls to 5000, the converter is too loose (too much stall). If spray the motor with the converter with just a 150 shot, the rpm's would not fall on a shift with this converter. This is not to say that this Vig converter is not a good converter, but just the wrong one for your application. Now, if you want a converter that is go to give you the most e.t. (On motor OR N2O) then, you need to call P.I. with info about the motor and setup. Things to let them know:
Cam size
rear gear ratio
hp of motor @ rpm
tq of motor @ rpm
weight of car with you
tire size that you race on
hp of N2O sprayed
Let's get back to the motor or N2O for converter stall size. You cannot have your cake and eat it too. You need to tell P.I. if you max performance with motor or with N2O.
The motor converter will be loser than the N2O converter. If you choose to max on motor:
Motor passes will be faster than with the N20 converter.
N20 passes will be slower than with N20 converter.
The opposite is true if you choose the N2O converter. Good luck on the path of your choice.
Kevin Steele
TCI
Product Engineer
Ragtop99 is right.
The path you choose to take is important! The rpm's does not fall below 5000 on a shift but what do you shift at? Ex. if you shift at 6000 and it falls to 5000, the converter is too loose (too much stall). If spray the motor with the converter with just a 150 shot, the rpm's would not fall on a shift with this converter. This is not to say that this Vig converter is not a good converter, but just the wrong one for your application. Now, if you want a converter that is go to give you the most e.t. (On motor OR N2O) then, you need to call P.I. with info about the motor and setup. Things to let them know:Cam size
rear gear ratio
hp of motor @ rpm
tq of motor @ rpm
weight of car with you
tire size that you race on
hp of N2O sprayed
Let's get back to the motor or N2O for converter stall size. You cannot have your cake and eat it too. You need to tell P.I. if you max performance with motor or with N2O.
The motor converter will be loser than the N2O converter. If you choose to max on motor:
Motor passes will be faster than with the N20 converter.
N20 passes will be slower than with N20 converter.
The opposite is true if you choose the N2O converter. Good luck on the path of your choice.
Kevin Steele
TCI
Product Engineer
Thanks in advance
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Murphy, TX
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad????????? How would I know if my converter is slipping above 4,000 rpm?
Feel/sound/revs????
Feel/sound/revs????
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad????????? Topless: That's a good idea. In Autotap, you can also log the converter output speed and compare that to the engine rpm and compute your slip ratio.
Quickin:
PI gives a free restall within either the first or second year of ownership.
My guess is you have a ton a low end torque with those big cubes and can easily blow those drag radials away from a dead stop. Therefore you can afford to run low STR converter of about 3500 stall. You could probably stay with a slightly larger diameter converter for extra clutch surface and less slip from your higher torque.
From Yank, a SY 3500 would work fine for you; at least as a NA converter. Very efficent top end and it would stall to about 3800 - 4000 behind your motor.
I'm not sure what specific TCS to recommend, but one of their nitrous converters would probably work.
As Kevin said, you can call TCS or TCI with your motor specs and have them build you what you want.
BTW, if you are racing to 150 MPH, you might want to consider whether 3.73s are your best gears. Depending upon tire size and your shift points, 3.42s would allow you to hit 150+ mph without shifting into 4th.
Quickin:
PI gives a free restall within either the first or second year of ownership.
My guess is you have a ton a low end torque with those big cubes and can easily blow those drag radials away from a dead stop. Therefore you can afford to run low STR converter of about 3500 stall. You could probably stay with a slightly larger diameter converter for extra clutch surface and less slip from your higher torque.
From Yank, a SY 3500 would work fine for you; at least as a NA converter. Very efficent top end and it would stall to about 3800 - 4000 behind your motor.
I'm not sure what specific TCS to recommend, but one of their nitrous converters would probably work.
As Kevin said, you can call TCS or TCI with your motor specs and have them build you what you want.
BTW, if you are racing to 150 MPH, you might want to consider whether 3.73s are your best gears. Depending upon tire size and your shift points, 3.42s would allow you to hit 150+ mph without shifting into 4th.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Murphy, TX
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad????????? Just an FYI for anybody looking into using the OBD-II parameters, know that the values upstream of the VSS (transmission output speed, transmission input speed, and TCC slip speed) are derived from VSS and any transmission component slippage is lumped into the TCC slip speed value. Assuming a healthy tranny, it's still be very useful.
Thread Starter
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad?????????
Topless: That's a good idea. In Autotap, you can also log the converter output speed and compare that to the engine rpm and compute your slip ratio.
My guess is you have a ton a low end torque with those big cubes and can easily blow those drag radials away from a dead stop. Therefore you can afford to run low STR converter of about 3500 stall.
You could probably stay with a slightly larger diameter converter for extra clutch surface and less slip from your higher torque.
I guess if I do a change I'll let Vigilante do a restall since I'm only 4 months into this new one.
BTW, if you are racing to 150 MPH, you might want to consider whether 3.73s are your best gears. Depending upon tire size and your shift points, 3.42s would allow you to hit 150+ mph without shifting into 4th.
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad????????? Try a vig 3200 with your restall. Vig normally keeps the stator the same and changes the blade angle (different pump) on their restalls. A higher blade angle will reduce the stall speed (and STR slightly) and improve efficency.
With stock tires (25.6") and even minimal converter slip (some slip is normal even in an efficent converter) you will be over 7,000 rpm at 140 mph in 3rd. If you lock the converter in 3rd you would be turning 6800+ in 3rd gear at 140 mph.
With stock tires (25.6") and even minimal converter slip (some slip is normal even in an efficent converter) you will be over 7,000 rpm at 140 mph in 3rd. If you lock the converter in 3rd you would be turning 6800+ in 3rd gear at 140 mph.
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad?????????
How would I know if my converter is slipping above 4,000 rpm?
Feel/sound/revs????
Feel/sound/revs????
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad?????????
How would I know if my converter is slipping above 4,000 rpm?
Feel/sound/revs????
Feel/sound/revs????
I guess a restall is in order.
Thread Starter
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad?????????
Try a vig 3200 with your restall. Vig normally keeps the stator the same and changes the blade angle (different pump) on their restalls. A higher blade angle will reduce the stall speed (and STR slightly) and improve efficency.
With stock tires (25.6") and even minimal converter slip (some slip is normal even in an efficent converter) you will be over 7,000 rpm at 140 mph in 3rd. If you lock the converter in 3rd you would be turning 6800+ in 3rd gear at 140 mph.
With stock tires (25.6") and even minimal converter slip (some slip is normal even in an efficent converter) you will be over 7,000 rpm at 140 mph in 3rd. If you lock the converter in 3rd you would be turning 6800+ in 3rd gear at 140 mph.
All I have to do is call them and tell them to make it a 3200 stall? What str do I want?
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad????????? Wait a minute...
The converter is supposed to slip. For example if there were no slip, then on the 1-2 upshift your car would drop back to around 3500 rpms. That is clearly out of the powerband and your car would fall on its face. My converter holds 5500 on the upshifts. I'm getting some torque multiplication and feeding much higher HP into the converter than if I had a low stall converter. The last thing I want is to get rid of the slip below 5500. On my converter, eliminating slip above 5500 would put more power to the rear wheels, by about 13 HP.
If your converter is holding above your peak HP, you have too much slip. Likewise a more efficent design might save you some HP on the top end. Don't trade the converter in if it is doing its job.
The converter is supposed to slip. For example if there were no slip, then on the 1-2 upshift your car would drop back to around 3500 rpms. That is clearly out of the powerband and your car would fall on its face. My converter holds 5500 on the upshifts. I'm getting some torque multiplication and feeding much higher HP into the converter than if I had a low stall converter. The last thing I want is to get rid of the slip below 5500. On my converter, eliminating slip above 5500 would put more power to the rear wheels, by about 13 HP.
If your converter is holding above your peak HP, you have too much slip. Likewise a more efficent design might save you some HP on the top end. Don't trade the converter in if it is doing its job.
Thread Starter
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Re: Could my converter be slipping like mad?????????
Wait a minute...
The converter is supposed to slip. For example if there were no slip, then on the 1-2 upshift your car would drop back to around 3500 rpms. That is clearly out of the powerband and your car would fall on its face. My converter holds 5500 on the upshifts. I'm getting some torque multiplication and feeding much higher HP into the converter than if I had a low stall converter. The last thing I want is to get rid of the slip below 5500. On my converter, eliminating slip above 5500 would put more power to the rear wheels, by about 13 HP.
If your converter is holding above your peak HP, you have too much slip. Likewise a more efficent design might save you some HP on the top end. Don't trade the converter in if it is doing its job.
The converter is supposed to slip. For example if there were no slip, then on the 1-2 upshift your car would drop back to around 3500 rpms. That is clearly out of the powerband and your car would fall on its face. My converter holds 5500 on the upshifts. I'm getting some torque multiplication and feeding much higher HP into the converter than if I had a low stall converter. The last thing I want is to get rid of the slip below 5500. On my converter, eliminating slip above 5500 would put more power to the rear wheels, by about 13 HP.
If your converter is holding above your peak HP, you have too much slip. Likewise a more efficent design might save you some HP on the top end. Don't trade the converter in if it is doing its job.