Torque Converter Installations
I have a 1/4" gap between the converter (4L80) pads and flexplate. Is it OK, or do I have to put shims? I don't want to use shims because my TC pilot seems a bit too short, and if I put some washers, it will not center in the crank (now with TC bolted up, it would engage in the crank about 1/8"). What do you recommend?
Being that you have a Circle D converter I'm pretty sure that Chris builds those with an LS1 pilot. What I would do with the trans removed, is try to place it against the FP to see how much of the pilot is really going into the crank. You might want to put some grease on the pilot so you can see how far its actually going in. I'm pretty sure that they go in pretty far and you should be fine using shims.
Is there something I could have done wrong during my rebuild that would make the converter not be able to get the third click? I checked end play and everything was within spec when I installed everything. My pads to bellhousing measurement is only giving me about 3/4". I have installed tons of transmissions as an r&r tech in the past and this one just does not feel right. The converter is a freshly rebuilt PTC that was already on the car before.
with converter put against flexplate, it's in the crank about 1/8". With TC seated, gap is 1/4". I was advised to weld on TC pilot extension and I will try to do it, because as I understand 1/4" spacing is too much, and converter will get pulled out if I bolt it to the flexplate without any shims
Is there something I could have done wrong during my rebuild that would make the converter not be able to get the third click? I checked end play and everything was within spec when I installed everything. My pads to bellhousing measurement is only giving me about 3/4". I have installed tons of transmissions as an r&r tech in the past and this one just does not feel right. The converter is a freshly rebuilt PTC that was already on the car before.
I honestly do not go by the amount of clicks because in some cases you will not hear or feel them all. The only way to make sure its in all the way is to measure it. In the past when I have had one that was stubborn I have stood the trans on its out put shaft and then tried to get the converter installed the rest of the way. This normally works for me and its always best to do this with a second set of hands. HTH Vince
i bought some different bolts again. M10-1.5-20mm
installed all 3, torqued them to spec. (46) i have just shy of a 3/16" gap between the converter pads and the flexplate. but if i grab one of the bolts and try to wiggle it (up and down) it wiggles ever so slightly. im guessing this isn't supposed to happen....??????
installed all 3, torqued them to spec. (46) i have just shy of a 3/16" gap between the converter pads and the flexplate. but if i grab one of the bolts and try to wiggle it (up and down) it wiggles ever so slightly. im guessing this isn't supposed to happen....??????
i bought some different bolts again. M10-1.5-20mm
installed all 3, torqued them to spec. (46) i have just shy of a 3/16" gap between the converter pads and the flexplate. but if i grab one of the bolts and try to wiggle it (up and down) it wiggles ever so slightly. im guessing this isn't supposed to happen....??????
installed all 3, torqued them to spec. (46) i have just shy of a 3/16" gap between the converter pads and the flexplate. but if i grab one of the bolts and try to wiggle it (up and down) it wiggles ever so slightly. im guessing this isn't supposed to happen....??????
I would NOT run with any slack in bolts ( any bolt not tight)
>>this AN'T supposed to happen<<<
Johnny
Last edited by SS SLP2; Oct 22, 2012 at 11:11 AM.
I've followed the steps in the beginning of this thread, and when I measure the flexplate to torque converter tabs I have two that are at 1/8" or just slightly less and one that is 1/4". This is a tci converter that is brand new.
Do I just do a 1/8" spacer on the one hole or on all 3??
Btw, thanks to all who contributed to this post I learned a ton.
Do I just do a 1/8" spacer on the one hole or on all 3??
Btw, thanks to all who contributed to this post I learned a ton.
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Verdad Gallardo I've followed the steps in the beginning of this thread, and when I measure the flexplate to torque converter tabs I have two that are at 1/8" or just slightly less and one that is 1/4". This is a tci converter that is brand new.
Do I just do a 1/8" spacer on the one hole or on all 3??
Btw, thanks to all who contributed to this post I learned a ton.
Do I just do a 1/8" spacer on the one hole or on all 3??
Btw, thanks to all who contributed to this post I learned a ton.
NOPE, you find out if the mounting pad on the TC is warped OR the flexplate is warped,(I bet this is problem) or the nose on the TC is off center -which I doudt, do not try to shim with that 1/8 on 2 legs and 1/4 on 1
just my .02's Johnny
Last edited by SS SLP2; Nov 1, 2012 at 10:00 AM.
here is a link to an istall video that we made that covers shifter adjustment,converter spacing and filling procedures as well as band adjustment on a powerglide. The converter spacing and shifter adjustment will apply to all!!! Hope this will help.
Greg
Greg
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FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
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FTI Converter build sheet
FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
"IT'S NOT CHEATING, IT'S THE COMPETITIVE EDGE."
1-866-726-8358
info@ftiperformance.com
FTIPerformance.com
FTI Converter build sheet
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 40
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Bringing this back from the dead!
Helping a buddy put a performa built 4l60e in his 00 ss and fti converter. Converter seated what seamed like fine. We did it several times. Got tranny up and got all bolts in but one.....the converter would not move! Tried everything and nope. So we took bolts back out and reput in the trans. We kept the bottom two bolts loose and with all bolts in but one the converter would move. A little tight but it would move in a clock or counter clockwise pattern. There was a 1/8" gap between fingers and flex plate so that seemed all well. Just weird that the converter did not spin any easier then it did. With only the bottom two bolts in it would spin free and smooth but the more bolts we put in the tighter it go. Is this normal?
Helping a buddy put a performa built 4l60e in his 00 ss and fti converter. Converter seated what seamed like fine. We did it several times. Got tranny up and got all bolts in but one.....the converter would not move! Tried everything and nope. So we took bolts back out and reput in the trans. We kept the bottom two bolts loose and with all bolts in but one the converter would move. A little tight but it would move in a clock or counter clockwise pattern. There was a 1/8" gap between fingers and flex plate so that seemed all well. Just weird that the converter did not spin any easier then it did. With only the bottom two bolts in it would spin free and smooth but the more bolts we put in the tighter it go. Is this normal?
I would be questioning if the pilot hole in the crank is clean and free of debris. I normally do this and also clean any paint off the actual pilot of the converter as well. Also make sure that the surfaces of your bell housing, trans case or engine are clean and fairly flat. Seems like something is not right and yes it should turn fairly easy with all bolts installed for the bell housing. Hope this helps. Vince
So the point of the 1/8" gap to be between the pads and the flexplate is to insure that the converter isn't seated too far into the pump/trans correct? Just want to make sure as i've never done an aftermarket converter. Thanks
Chris
can't wait to get it in the car with the 4L80 
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 5
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From: pittsburgh
I have a quick question, I just installed a built 4l60E into my 99 Silverado and don't recall the gap between the converter to flex-plate. As of now, I am at about 380 miles and 3 weeks and everything has been running great. However, I went back under there today to install the skid plates and noticed a little tranny fluid on the snow under the truck. I looked at the inspection covers and down to oil pan along with where the motor meets bell-housing and saw that's where the fluid was. I pulled the covers and looked inside, I could not see a leaking point IN there, but there was a small pool inside the bell-housing at the flex-plate inspection hole.
Could an improperly gapped torque converter to flex-plate cause a leak in there? Also could I have damaged the tranny during this 380 miles? I am obviously not going to drive it until I check the gap.
The tranny is a stage 3 and the TC is a Recon from Transtar locally here in Pittsburgh.
This is the 2nd tranny I've installed into a full size GM, first went smooth so this one is making me upset with the leak.
Are there any ways I can see why this is leaking even if its not the TC to Flex-plate gap?
Thanks in advance.
Could an improperly gapped torque converter to flex-plate cause a leak in there? Also could I have damaged the tranny during this 380 miles? I am obviously not going to drive it until I check the gap.
The tranny is a stage 3 and the TC is a Recon from Transtar locally here in Pittsburgh.
This is the 2nd tranny I've installed into a full size GM, first went smooth so this one is making me upset with the leak.
Are there any ways I can see why this is leaking even if its not the TC to Flex-plate gap?
Thanks in advance.