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Fuddle wont lock up

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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 12:17 PM
  #21  
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Im going to remove the converter and a Fuddle will not be going back in. Ive read several different threads on this site about which one is best and im about set on one. I would like to hear some more opinions though. Are any of the sponsors offering specials as that may sway my decision.
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 03:50 PM
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Do you know a shop who has and knows how to use a TranX 2000. It's a breakout box and diagnostic for electrical, ohms, amps, and volts. The book accompanied with it has the factory pirameters. You can manual shift the trans along with the lock-up solenoid. It can show you what's being commanded by the computer as you watch. Also in HP Tuners there are features that have little notes below and can be missed, such as the shift light. You can burn-up the reverse input frictions if this is turned on. They come on when the forward gears are applied. Basically, we had to go through what had been tuned and found the problem. Then the trans had to come apart and send the converter out to be cleaned, Vigilante. This little mistake had cost that customer a few bucks. If you just bought the converter and can't get hold of the owner,s, send it to any of the other HP converter companies, Neal Chance, Hughes, Coan, someone close to you. Deal with the other shop later. It should cost around 200.00 or so. If your going to PLAY with your car, you have to be 110% sure. Did you find a "real fine" grit when you pulled the pan down? It could look brownish, black, or reddish. This grit could be bunched up in the pump area between the bushing and the vane separater. This would tell you if the clutch came apart. Anyway, time for Christmas Dinner! Lasagna!! Merry Christmas.
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 382ssz28
Do you know a shop who has and knows how to use a TranX 2000. It's a breakout box and diagnostic for electrical, ohms, amps, and volts. The book accompanied with it has the factory pirameters. You can manual shift the trans along with the lock-up solenoid. It can show you what's being commanded by the computer as you watch. Also in HP Tuners there are features that have little notes below and can be missed, such as the shift light. You can burn-up the reverse input frictions if this is turned on. They come on when the forward gears are applied. Basically, we had to go through what had been tuned and found the problem. Then the trans had to come apart and send the converter out to be cleaned, Vigilante. This little mistake had cost that customer a few bucks. If you just bought the converter and can't get hold of the owner,s, send it to any of the other HP converter companies, Neal Chance, Hughes, Coan, someone close to you. Deal with the other shop later. It should cost around 200.00 or so. If your going to PLAY with your car, you have to be 110% sure. Did you find a "real fine" grit when you pulled the pan down? It could look brownish, black, or reddish. This grit could be bunched up in the pump area between the bushing and the vane separater. This would tell you if the clutch came apart. Anyway, time for Christmas Dinner! Lasagna!! Merry Christmas.
The test I gave was something of a break out box ,
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 05:02 PM
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Something else I forgot to mention was the abs inop and asr off lights are on constantly. I think this happened right about the same time the converter quit locking up. When I start the car the asr button on the dash lights up for just a second and goes off and pressing the button does nothing. Maybe its just coincidence, I dont know.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 11:08 PM
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You did actually see the led go off and on aprox when lockup should have occurred ?
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 06:58 AM
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Although rare, the pulse-width modulator for the lockup may have failed....but seeing that the other lights came on at the same time a PCM connection may be bad.....
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by TLewis4095
Although rare, the pulse-width modulator for the lockup may have failed....but seeing that the other lights came on at the same time a PCM connection may be bad.....
I considered that however generaly short of a complete electrical failure which would set a code, Normally a pwm issue will cause converter slip not a definate unlock and generally also will set PO1870 which he says is not present, But on the other have even if the everythigs working and lockup is being commanded and its not happening that code should also set unless of course someone has disabled it in tuning which is also a possibility.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by performabuilt
You did actually see the led go off and on aprox when lockup should have occurred ?
I used a test light and yes I did see the light turn on and off at 40 mph. I tried it several times and it worked every time. Also the pwm code has not been disabled, just misfire codes and rear hego sensors have been disabled.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TLewis4095
Although rare, the pulse-width modulator for the lockup may have failed....but seeing that the other lights came on at the same time a PCM connection may be bad.....
I also just removed the pcm connectors and checked for pushed out pins or corrosion and everything looked ok.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 09:42 PM
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Ah ha, can I know some more about this pwm? My converter will lock up, but when it is given a slight amount of throttle while locked up it occilates (sp).

To the op, its most likely in the converter. My lockup clutches were burnt up in my Fuddle. There is a ring about 3/4 of an inch burnt onto the front of the converter. If you pop off the silver ring on the housing you can sneak a peek with a flash light and see if you have discoloration on yours.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 03:38 PM
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In our business we call this "The Ring of Death"!
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