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Is it Bad To Manually Shift the A4?

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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 09:18 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by KAAM
starting off in manual 1 on your 4l6e trans is actually easier on the trans you will be pulling on the low/reverse clutches along with the forward clutches. its sad to hear all these trans companys brag about how good there 4l60s are and hydraulicly you can make these transmissions very strong, the weak link is always going to be the input drum this drum is aluminum and a car that hooks real good is going to eventully strip the splines or crack the drum there is no way around it untill someone comes up with a stamp steel drum good luck but dont put to much into these bullet proof trans
You know, I've always heard this and I've always wondered why it's so damn hard to make this part in steel. Isn't it just a casting? Hell, make it titanium. How expensive can it be? Am I missing something here?
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 09:38 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 98 WS6
Lol, I just hate how an automatic drops its RPMs right away. Sadly I couldn't find any M6 cars. I had one, but the damn dealership sold it with my deposit on it.

Whats this manual valvebody you guys are talking about?
1st get a stall then the RPM wont drop.
A full manual valve body is just what it implies its makes and auto a manual without a clutch besides everyone knows all things equal and auto with a good stall will have a manual for lunch

Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
You know, I've always heard this and I've always wondered why it's so damn hard to make this part in steel. Isn't it just a casting? Hell, make it titanium. How expensive can it be? Am I missing something here?
We have looked into this and the issue is expense the drum would cost near what the trans itself cost and would have to be ordered in quantity. Meaning likly a million dollar investment into something only a very few would be willing to buy . Most people don't like paying the price of the OEM 5 pin planets so our biggest seller is our level 2 not the level 3 for that reason.


Now on the subject of manual shifting bear in mind that all the same things happen when you manual shift with the auto valve body as you get with the full manual valve body.
I do not subscribe to the idea that manually shifting will damage the trans I have seen no evidence of this other than with trucks that use down shifts for braking and this tends to wear the overun clutch but this would have no affect on full throttle down shifts and up shifts only on 0 throttle braking as you would get downshifting with no throttle .

Now and exception to that rule might be with the Transgo 1-2 VALVE that allows you to hold first to any rpm and speed and to down shift to first at any speed. Though I haven't seen anything to support it . It would seem maybe you could create a situation of some trans internal parts spinning way faster than they should or theres always the possibility of whacking the engine that way.

All this IMO meaning you can manually shift your PerformaBuilt trans all you like.
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 10:46 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by performabuilt
[B]We have looked into this and the issue is expense the drum would cost near what the trans itself cost and would have to be ordered in quantity. Meaning likly a million dollar investment into something only a very few would be willing to buy . Most people don't like paying the price of the OEM 5 pin planets so our biggest seller is our level 2 not the level 3 for that reason.
Bah, ridiculous. Can't you just make it like you make a key?
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
Bah, ridiculous. Can't you just make it like you make a key?
I wish lol
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 11:56 PM
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in my experience, i downshifted for 70k miles on the old trans when coming to a stop or getting off the freeway to slow down... Then i put a turbo on the car and the trans went a week later. With that said, I am with frank, and i think it would be ok to a certain extent as long as you arent dropping it in first at like 40 mph
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 12:09 AM
  #26  
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I guess it can be bad downshifting but shifting the car manually shaved off .3 seconds off my track time the one time I tried it.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 07:58 PM
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the problem with a stamp steel drum for the 60e is supply and demand.they rarely break in a stock trans/car.as for the 5 pinion planetarys cost they come from the factory in the 65e theres plenty of them around. last time i checked you could buy a 65e core for around 75 bucks and you would get the front planet 5 pinion also
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by KAAM
the problem with a stamp steel drum for the 60e is supply and demand.they rarely break in a stock trans/car.as for the 5 pinion planetarys cost they come from the factory in the 65e theres plenty of them around. last time i checked you could buy a 65e core for around 75 bucks and you would get the front planet 5 pinion also
4L65E cores 75 dollars a peice give me a call and Ill take em. we cant get them even at twice that
, We rarely see a 65E core so we end up buying new.
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 09:06 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by KAAM
the problem with a stamp steel drum for the 60e is supply and demand.they rarely break in a stock trans/car.as for the 5 pinion planetarys cost they come from the factory in the 65e theres plenty of them around. last time i checked you could buy a 65e core for around 75 bucks and you would get the front planet 5 pinion also
If you ever find a deal like that again, I will take every one you got. I can't find ls1 60 cores for that kind of money.
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 01SuperSport
I guess it can be bad downshifting but shifting the car manually shaved off .3 seconds off my track time the one time I tried it.
Then there is something wrong with your transmission or the tune. All things being equal, humans can not shift faster then a computer. Manually shifting should make the ET slower (or best case scenario the same give or take a tenth). But to pick up 3 tenths is definately not normal.
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 10:16 AM
  #31  
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give transtar a call if you just want the rear planet they sell them new for 85.70 as for the 65e cores theres a place in atlanta ga that gets all gm reject transmissions if you buy them in volume you can get them cheaper than 75 bucks get back with you on the name of the company. ive bought 15-20 of these units only problem found with any of them was a cut l/u o-ring
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 10:31 AM
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Yes find that out we usually buy 50 to 100 at a time so e can do volume .
To the OP sorry for the hijack
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 12:21 PM
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i never downshift but when racing i come to a stop and put it in 1st. right after i go wot i put it back into D, so i never really manually shift it. idk why but i can tell a big difference when using this technique versus just leaving it in D and punching it. plus you don't have the lag for downshifting as soon as you hit it, she goes.
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 04:16 PM
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so which manual valve body should i buy for my 2001 z28 ? it's just a street car and i wanna have fun shifting through the gears without damage to the trans.

TransGo Reprogramming Kit 4L60E, 93-2005 Performance stick shift kit

Code: T74173E
Price: $233.19
Performance stick shift kit, TransGo #4L60E-3, Stick Shift: Full manual control Converts back to automatic.
Competition, off road and pro-street. Holds 1st, 2nd and 3rd to any RPM; Backshifts to 3rd, 2nd and 1st at any RPM.
For transplant or use with no electrical: Includes 46-MOD (Vacuum controlled line pressure) 4L60E & 4L65E 1993-2005

is this what yall are talking about?

Last edited by homerz28; Sep 4, 2008 at 04:39 PM.
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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 12:45 AM
  #35  
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IIRC, that's the kit that forces full manual operation - like a manual valve body - with no automatic shifting. The HD-2 kit enables manual shifting at any rpm but maintains fully automatic operation.
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 10:52 PM
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Well then what is this review that I recently read talking about? Don't say "you can't believe everything you read" please. It's just that I have heard about manually shifting an auto (stock) many times before. Is it OK to LEAVE you vehicle in first second or third to drive then??? Just wondering. I have the same questions as "98 ws6" has. I also love how it sounds when I leave it in second and let the rpms fall coming up to a light, so sue me! Lol.

http://www.theautochannel.com/vehicl...g12059702.html
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