CTS-V Suspension Tuning
#62
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If your'e still in the market, I'd suggest getting a Belltech 21060--the KW Variant 3, packaged by Belltech, the North American branch of KW. Not sure what price they'll accept, but maybe start at $1750 and go up from there:
Belltech coilover Kit for 2003 2007 Cadillac cts and cts V 21060 | eBay
It's literally just a different label on the box. The documentation and contents are identical.
It's like Christmas morning!
Thanks to FuzzyLog1c for all the great info. I am going with your setup of springs, sways, and even the hotchkis brackets. I went with powergrid endlinks though. I also ordered the Banski shock mounts, revshit cradle bushings, and control arm bushings. I have killernoodle trailing arms already, and Creative Steel toe rods are on the way. I can't wait to get all this installed and feel the difference!
#63
Holy smokes...that's some Grade A car pr0n right there. You even got those badass (but expensive) billet Hotchkis sway bar brackets! What kind of pads and rotors do you have there? Did you remember to order the two standoffs (P/N 16810288) from Hotchkis HSS-2280 kit so that you can use normal sway bar brackets in the front? I went to install the billet brackets last weekend, and couldn't because I forgot to pick up a couple of longer, socket cap screws for the rear-facing bolts. Unfortunately, I won't have a chance to do this until next weekend, but if you're interested, I'll let you know what I measure on the stock bolts so that we can both purchase quality, Grade 8.8 or 10.9 substitutes.
Also, you may already know this (if you follow the Cadillac Forums)--the inside of the thrust bearings will have to be shaved down using a dremel or a drill, because for some reason, KW made their spring mounts a millimeter wider than spec. Honestly, I have yet to notice the springs rotate on their perches, so I'm not sure they work--however, it's good protection for the anodized aluminum.
Edit: you might also want to add a drop of blue Loctite on the rear shock threads when you're finishing up with the Banski RSM installation. You can't torque down that bolt as much as you would with regular, non-spherical RSMs (otherwise you'll compromise the ability of the mount to rotate), so the bolt will tend to want to unfasten itself. The end result is a clicking sound that is caused by the top of the Banski RSM slapping the bottom of the nuts (yeah, yeah... ) after every little bump in the road.
Also, you may already know this (if you follow the Cadillac Forums)--the inside of the thrust bearings will have to be shaved down using a dremel or a drill, because for some reason, KW made their spring mounts a millimeter wider than spec. Honestly, I have yet to notice the springs rotate on their perches, so I'm not sure they work--however, it's good protection for the anodized aluminum.
Edit: you might also want to add a drop of blue Loctite on the rear shock threads when you're finishing up with the Banski RSM installation. You can't torque down that bolt as much as you would with regular, non-spherical RSMs (otherwise you'll compromise the ability of the mount to rotate), so the bolt will tend to want to unfasten itself. The end result is a clicking sound that is caused by the top of the Banski RSM slapping the bottom of the nuts (yeah, yeah... ) after every little bump in the road.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 10-20-2013 at 10:24 AM.
#64
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Fuzzy after installing your Hotchkis bars with the poly bushing set I found grade 10.9 bolts at Home Depot. I think they were 70mm (maybe 75mm but they were 5mm shorter than what you thought I needed) either way they fit no problem, extending all the way through the threads.
#65
Fuzzy after installing your Hotchkis bars with the poly bushing set I found grade 10.9 bolts at Home Depot. I think they were 70mm (maybe 75mm but they were 5mm shorter than what you thought I needed) either way they fit no problem, extending all the way through the threads.
#67
Edit--this might work, assuming that the diameter and thread pitch are right:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AQM...A11HJG7J7TSIPG
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 10-20-2013 at 12:38 PM.
#68
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I did not order the hotchkis standoffs. I tried summit racing but they do not list the part number. They said they could get a price from Hotchkis tomorrow and add it to their catalog.
I went to install the billet brackets last weekend, and couldn't because I forgot to pick up a couple of longer, socket cap screws for the rear-facing bolts. Unfortunately, I won't have a chance to do this until next weekend, but if you're interested, I'll let you know what I measure on the stock bolts so that we can both purchase quality, Grade 8.8 or 10.9 substitutes.
These from Mcmaster should work. http://www.mcmaster.com/#91290a540/=p0ucvz
#70
The rotors are DRT slotted, I am going to run Hawk HPS + pads (P/N HB194N.570 & HB453N.585).
I did not order the hotchkis standoffs. I tried summit racing but they do not list the part number. They said they could get a price from Hotchkis tomorrow and add it to their catalog.
According to the Hotchkis installation pdf, the bolts are M10-1.5 x 65mm.
These from Mcmaster should work. http://www.mcmaster.com/#91290a540/=p0ucvz
I did not order the hotchkis standoffs. I tried summit racing but they do not list the part number. They said they could get a price from Hotchkis tomorrow and add it to their catalog.
According to the Hotchkis installation pdf, the bolts are M10-1.5 x 65mm.
These from Mcmaster should work. http://www.mcmaster.com/#91290a540/=p0ucvz
Also, I would not use Hawk HP+ pads, unless you want to potentially ruin your wheels. The brake dust that Hawk HP+ pads produce is very, very hard (like powdered granite) and requires acid to remove if the wheels are not completely cleaned each week. In the next couple of weeks, I'm going to make an epic attempt to clean and polish my wheels--if that doesn't work, I'm going to send them back to Forgestar to have them refinished.
#71
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I advise calling Hotchkis directly. They're about $10-15 for the pair, IIRC. Keep in mind that you will need two--the part number is not for a package of two.
Also, I would not use Hawk HP+ pads, unless you want to potentially ruin your wheels. The brake dust that Hawk HP+ pads produce is very, very hard (like powdered granite) and requires acid to remove if the wheels are not completely cleaned each week. In the next couple of weeks, I'm going to make an epic attempt to clean and polish my wheels--if that doesn't work, I'm going to send them back to Forgestar to have them refinished.
Also, I would not use Hawk HP+ pads, unless you want to potentially ruin your wheels. The brake dust that Hawk HP+ pads produce is very, very hard (like powdered granite) and requires acid to remove if the wheels are not completely cleaned each week. In the next couple of weeks, I'm going to make an epic attempt to clean and polish my wheels--if that doesn't work, I'm going to send them back to Forgestar to have them refinished.
My car is not a DD so it does stay pretty clean. That being said I do not want to get a colder heat range pad. I am planning on a NASA track day on the 1st weekend in November, and I don't want to buy a separate pair set of rotors and pads just for it. I am averaging 1 track day a year so I can't justify going all out on the brakes yet, since I want a new rear end first.
Do you have any recommendations on a similar performing pad without harsh dust?
#72
Ok I will call Hotchkis tomorrow.
My car is not a DD so it does stay pretty clean. That being said I do not want to get a colder heat range pad. I am planning on a NASA track day on the 1st weekend in November, and I don't want to buy a separate pair set of rotors and pads just for it. I am averaging 1 track day a year so I can't justify going all out on the brakes yet, since I want a new rear end first.
Do you have any recommendations on a similar performing pad without harsh dust?
My car is not a DD so it does stay pretty clean. That being said I do not want to get a colder heat range pad. I am planning on a NASA track day on the 1st weekend in November, and I don't want to buy a separate pair set of rotors and pads just for it. I am averaging 1 track day a year so I can't justify going all out on the brakes yet, since I want a new rear end first.
Do you have any recommendations on a similar performing pad without harsh dust?
04-07 CTS-V ET800 Front
09-13 CTS-V ET800 Front
04-13 CTS-V ET800 Rear
http://forums.racingbrake.com/showthread.php?t=414
#75
#76
Hey fuzzy do you have any updates on how the new springs feel? Also just bought the belltech varient 3 for 1650 shipped on ebay if any one else is looking for coil overs. And which spring setup do you reccommend for mostly street driving maybe one or two track days a year?
#78
Hey fuzzy do you have any updates on how the new springs feel? Also just bought the belltech varient 3 for 1650 shipped on ebay if any one else is looking for coil overs. And which spring setup do you reccommend for mostly street driving maybe one or two track days a year?
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 11-29-2013 at 10:13 PM.
#79
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Try the RacingBrake ET800. They also make them for the 2nd generation CTS-V front calipers.
04-07 CTS-V ET800 Front
09-13 CTS-V ET800 Front
04-13 CTS-V ET800 Rear
http://forums.racingbrake.com/showthread.php?t=414
04-07 CTS-V ET800 Front
09-13 CTS-V ET800 Front
04-13 CTS-V ET800 Rear
http://forums.racingbrake.com/showthread.php?t=414