Metering blocks
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Omaha,NE
Metering blocks So I have been contemplating on buying some metering blocks for my holley hp series 750 dp. The reason I'm debating on this is I'd like to have more adjustability of my cruise idle and curb idle, such as emulsion ports and IFR. I can't stand how rich this thing cruises, 11.5-11.0 area just ball park.
And now since reading this thread I'd like to try some of things there talking about. https://ls1tech.com/forums/carburete...cd-tuners.html
So I guess to simplify my question is should I buy after market metering blocks or should I just use my current metering blocks and drill and tap the ports I want to adjust? Opinions would be greatly appreciated!
And now since reading this thread I'd like to try some of things there talking about. https://ls1tech.com/forums/carburete...cd-tuners.html
So I guess to simplify my question is should I buy after market metering blocks or should I just use my current metering blocks and drill and tap the ports I want to adjust? Opinions would be greatly appreciated!
The billet metering blocks are really nice, but they are not mandatory. If you are comfortable drilling and tapping, you can get there with what you have. With that said, I bought billet pieces from Quick Fuel.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Omaha,NE
Which metering blocks do you have? Do you have four corner idle screws?
I think this is the unit that I bought:
http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/m...libration.html
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 173
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From: Omaha,NE
Mine is currently a 4. What do you guys recommend for company's and style for metering blocks I know there is like 4 and 5 hole emulsion blocks? Just seeing what people have had good and bad luck with. Some of the details on my motor is a sbe 5.7 ls w/ a .608/.596 240/244 duration on a 112 lsa w/ a victor jr. And a holley hp 750
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It is massively cheaper to drill and tap a stocker. Price out the replaceable jets then compare that to threaded blanks from Mc Master Carr. Then think about how many of them you will need to buy to allow swapping out whole sets of them like main jets.
You don't need to adjust emulsion jets to get your AFR's right. The IFR and air bleeds will get you there. In fact, I would argue screwing with emulsion jets will cause more harm than good. A wideband isn't going to be enough to make sense of what the emulsion jets do.
You don't need to adjust emulsion jets to get your AFR's right. The IFR and air bleeds will get you there. In fact, I would argue screwing with emulsion jets will cause more harm than good. A wideband isn't going to be enough to make sense of what the emulsion jets do.
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Verdad Gallardo I would say this differently. I would say: You do not have to change your emulsion and main air bleed to make massive improvements in your part throttle A/F ratios.
And, improving your part throttle A/F ratios is a surprisingly simple process.
And, improving your part throttle A/F ratios is a surprisingly simple process.
It took me awhile to build up the courage to take a drill press to a $500 carb but once I did I got everything working right with a single IFR/airbleed change. Once you realize changing the IFR is no different than changing a main jet it becomes less than intimidating.
But from everything I have read changing emulsion jets takes a bit more insight than just a wideband will give you. It really goes beyond tuning.
I guess I could find an on line guru and follow what they say as a matter of faith. But IDK, not the way I am wired I guess. Besides, I didn't need to go there with my application.
Emulsions are a tough topic because they are complex. And, they do not seem to have a simple linear response to changes. For this reason, I would say a good strategy is to emulate a known successful combinations for a given application. Which is, in essence what my strategy is. It is an emulation of a known combination.
