New Guy calling G-body owners
10-26-2009, 12:45 PM
#21
Teching In
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ebay adapter plates
This is the seller I got my mounts from. Very fast, good quality. I honestly had to massage the 1" setback mounts just a bit to fit the truck block. My guess is that the LS1 block is what they're really designed for. But, I'm very happy with them.
This is the seller I got my mounts from. Very fast, good quality. I honestly had to massage the 1" setback mounts just a bit to fit the truck block. My guess is that the LS1 block is what they're really designed for. But, I'm very happy with them.
10-26-2009, 01:06 PM
#22
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Swedesboro, NJ
Posts: 425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Foggy, if you still have all of the hardware that came with the stock location plates I may be interested in taking them off your hands. PM me with a price and such and maybe we can work out a deal. I hope to not have to notch my AC box or valve cover and probably run the LH8 oil pan which is why I am looking to keep the engine in the stock location.
10-26-2009, 06:37 PM
#23
I'm using Spohn frame mounts that put the motor in the stock location. I built some engine mounts off of Jeg's simple (part # 550-40120) SBC solid frame mounts design. Spacemanspif, the LH8 oil pan will hang about 1 1/2 - 2"s below the crossmember - something to think about. I went ahead and notched my frame to use the F-Body pan.
Last edited by Monte4ever; 10-26-2009 at 06:44 PM.
10-26-2009, 10:23 PM
#24
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Swedesboro, NJ
Posts: 425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the heads up Monte4ever but I do not have access to, nor skill with, a welder to have the k-member notched for the f-body pan. The car is only lowered an inch and not getting any lower any time soon so I hope when the engine is set in with the LH8 pan that it will not cause worry on bottoming out and busting the pan. Unless someone is selling a modified f-pan for a G-body for around $150, the LH8 is also the best option for my wallet lol.
10-30-2009, 05:17 PM
#26
I see you want to keep your AC, so if you are keeping it in the stock location you will have to move the motor forward or notch the frame. BRP setup gives you the clearance to use the AC but they also raise the motor up about 1 1/2". This will not allow you to use the truck accessories because the alternator will hit the hood. However, you can use the F-Body accessories and the oil pan won't hang down as far.
11-02-2009, 11:05 PM
#28
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Swedesboro, NJ
Posts: 425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I do not plan on running the AC right when the engine is dropped in. I am going to sell the stock compressor and brackets that came with the engine, then down the line when all of the bugs are worked out of the engine swap and I am a little older and would like to use AC I will get Kwik AC setup and hopefully everything will be OK. I won't use BRP's mounts because of how high it places the engine and will just hope for the best while using the LH8 pan.
11-03-2009, 10:27 AM
#30
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Swedesboro, NJ
Posts: 425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
jvr: I am most likely going to buy the adapter plates off of FoggyStyle and then use a Trans Dapt-like padded motor mount (on the motor side) and some sort of solid frame side mount, most likely the Moroso product. From what I have learned on this thread this seems to be one of the more populat choices for mounting the engine and people have had a high success rate with it so I am going to hope for the best when I dive in.
