itsmillertime

iTrader: (4)

I've seen numerous standalone harnesses for sale with this style of relay/ fuse block.

I was wondering how to wire up a fuse block set-up like this. Maybe it will be blatantly obvious once I order the parts and have them in hand but at the same time I'd like to know beforehand so I don't have to place another order because I need something else.
These are the individual parts.

I'm not sure if I'll get the relay socket on the top left or the relay holder on the bottom right. Depends on which one fits the best and makes the whole fuse block/relay center the most compact.
So I'll have two of the fuse blocks for a total of 8 fusible circuits, two relay sockets and two relays. One for switched 12+ to the fuse block and one for the fuel pump. So how do I wire it up? Do I need 30 or 40A relays, 4 or 5 blade, SPST or SPDT? I already have my harness thinned down and labeled thanks to a LS1tech member (LS1MCSS).

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

http://www.autotrendefi.com/utv_fuse_block.html

vandejr

iTrader: (12)

www.lt1swap.com shows u steps and details on how to do it. i cant access the site for some reason. maybe u get better luck.

itsmillertime

iTrader: (4)

They're charging $90. I can get the same parts for under $20 shipped. Relays are around $5, fuse blocks are .69 and the holders are $1.

vandejr

iTrader: (12)

yeah parts are cheap. if that lt1swap site was working. the guy gives u tons of pictures and great details of how ur suppose to wire the relays and fuse box.

vandejr

iTrader: (12)

heres the guys emailed. ask him for the pics or instructions to wiring ur own harness with the lsx.
lt1swap@centurytel.net
if u can email me the details too so i can save them to my pc.
vandejr1981@yahoo.com
i emailed him also.

Steve VanS

iTrader: (1)

You need power to the PCM, and fan control relays. Try these guys:

http://www.currentperformance.com/Ac...iring_acc.html

They may be able to supply their wiring with GM connectors for C100, C101, C105

itsmillertime

iTrader: (4)

Theirs is even more! I'm using the parts I posted above. 2 relays, holders and 2 fuse blocks. I'm not looking into buying a $90-100 fuse block. I just need a little more insight on how to wire it up.

vandejr

iTrader: (12)

hey man sites back up. let me know if it helps u any.
http://www.lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm

zman1969

iTrader: (91)

Good info there, this will surely help me

Andy1

wiringproducts.com has a lot of what you may need in order to piece together a system.

Andy1

itsmillertime

iTrader: (4)

Prices are kind high though. I can find everything I need either at Waytek or Terminal supply for dirt cheap. I just need to find someone better at wiring than me so I don't burn up my ECU or something because I am a moron when it comes to wiring.

RYU

EDIT: I think I jumped the gun on my post. Don't think I answered your Q. Anyway, hope this helps someone else.

If you're willing to do a bit of work and save some money (and do it to your specs) then go to the nearest salvage yard and pull a newer F-body (actually almost any OEM will do) fuseblock. This cost me $15 with fuses, relays, and wires. It would have cost me more in fuses and relays alone. You will of course need the various wiring How-Tos on here to figure out the wiring. Wiring an in-line fuse and/or a relay should be pretty straight forward.

If you itemize exactly what electronic circuits you need to relay and/or fuse then you will know how big of a fuse block to look for. I pulled mine off a Cavalier but there was a Camaro one that had plenty of available socket and junction slots for just about any accessory imaginable.



With Molex connectors, I made the whole fuse block serviceable.

busta9876

iTrader: (3)

http://www.lt1swap.com/fuseblock_obd2port.html - list of part#'s and vendor to order fuse block, pins, relays, sockets etc...enjoy.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

IMO, 2 relays is not enough. The Current performance is a nice compact unit that allows future expansion. It also comes with wiring instructions

If you want factory reliability, you need to wire it like an OEM.

I feel separate relays are required for the following:

-Main block power
-Fuel Pump
-Starter
-Fan 1
-Fan 2
-AC

Fuses for every main circuit is also recommended.

itsmillertime

iTrader: (4)

Yeah that's pretty much what I'm going for "busta9876" but I'll be using two fuse blocks and need to know the best way to wire it all up. I'm hoping it will make more sense once I actually have everything in hand.

I'm using 3 relays for the fans, one for switched power, and one for fuel pump. I don't think I'll be using one for the starter; doesn't seem necessary to me. The start signal wire is basically the relay for that circuit, right?

I'm also rewiring the car with this: http://stores.homestead.com/ez2wire/...sal/Detail.bok

busta9876

iTrader: (3)

you can gang the fuse blocks and relays together for however many you wish to use. (the part#'s in the link i gave above) I have also found them at Autozone, made by Dorman, the Conduct-Tite product line. Part# 85668. My local store used to stock this on shelf, but not anymore. They CAN still order them for you. $5.00 each at Autozone. comes with 4 individual terminals, and 4 bussed terminals. These will gang together.

Devices that will be controlled with a relay, should have constant 12v+ supplied to a fuse, then that fuse should feed the relay. Key hot devices can be fed through a relay as shown, or if you have more key hot devices, may require a second relay. Most of the automotive relays are rated at 30AMP.

Keep in mind when combining device on single fuse, the smallest wire of anything on the circuit, should be able to handle the current required to blow the fuse. This ensures that a short to ground blows the fuse, and not smokes the wire.

learn Ohm's law. http://www.ict4us.com/r.kuijt/en_ohm.htm

so, using ohms law, we can figure out the amp draw of fuel injectors.
14 ohm fuel injectors. 13.8 volts. = .98 AMP each at 100% duty cycle (unlikely to ever go about 80% on stock motor) So, all 8 injectors under the most demand you'll see, just under 8 amps.

13.8 / 14 = .98

hope someone learned a little....that's usually my goal.