Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Great build. Let me make one suggestion. That adapter through which the hoses come through will leak. Ask me how I know :-) Water comes down the inside of the cowl, down the sides of the kick panels and down through the rockers. I suggest you take come silicone and caulk the hell out of those hoses.

Andrew

wade70ss

So what you are saying is silicone the hell out of that thing?? GOTCHA!!!

You know, I've been wondering if there's not a better solution than having all the water run down that cowl and into the fender area. Has anyone attempted to fix this? Or at least come up with some solution? I know that area is a common rust spot so any solution would probably be a good one.

adamc

iTrader: (1)

really cool. thanks for sharing the build.

Alwhite00

iTrader: (1)

Looking great, I will definately be asking some questions.

LK

wade70ss

So last posts were setting the motor in the car and cutting a huge depressing hole in the floor pan. Well, we got the motor bolted in and the huge hole all welded up. Unfortunately I don't have any pics of that but it's not really rocket science right?

Cut huge hole..... wish you hadn't cut huge hole..... make huge hole go away.

Once that was done it was pretty much wire it up time. I fashioned my wiring out of a 4-fuse block from Pep Boys and two relays from Frys. Keyed on for the entire circuit and a fuel pump relay. I ran my fuses combined much like the factory harness does. Bank one (coils,inj) on 1 fuse, bank 2 on another, 02's on one, MAF/TAC on another...

I sent my ECU to www.wait4meperformance.com and Jesse Bubb programs them for $85. I told him what I deleted, what I was running and the tune came back pretty good. I've been running it now for 4100 miles and haven't had any problems. I'll be installing a cam soon so that tune will change.

Here's where I mounted my ECU. I worked with the truck harness and didn't add any wiring to lengthen it. This was a fairly logical place to put it out of the way of water etc. I used the Humer H2 ECU mounting bracket which was about $25 from GM. I trimmed it and mounted it to 2 L-brackets I purchaed from Home Depot. Using some threaded bar stock I made made hood hinge studs by cutting a 3" piece and jam nutting it to the existing fender nuts. This allowed me to bolt the ECU bracket on the backside of the fender while using a nut to fasten the hood hinge. I can adjust the hood hinge without tampering with the ECU mount and vice versa.









So I have my ECU outside under the fender, and my fuses and TAC box are inside the cab ran through a 2" hole behind the drivers head.

The pedal I sourced from a junk yard and fortunately it was the correct one. All I did to mount it was cut off the return spring, cut the rod down quite a bit and then drill a hole on the end to mount my factory Chevelle pedal.





I reused one of the existing pedal holes in the firewall and just screwed the other through the firewall. I made sure the pedal matched the original pedal location..

MrBollWeevil97

Wade70SS,

I just read your build thread and saw you're in the Dallas area. I'm in Plano and thought I'd show you some N. Texas support. Man, I wish I had seen your build thread earlier as I'm chest deep in a 5.3/T56 swap into my 69 Chevelle!!! I bought a 5.3 with 120k miles for $500.00, but came with no accessories at all, only the truck intake and exhaust manifolds. I've since switch to a LS1 intake, cable throttle body, C5 vette balancer and water pump with the plans to run the vette accessories. The T56 I got for 850.00 out of a 98SS Camaro with 34k miles. With some craiglist shopping, I found a used flexplate, clutch and master cylinder for cheap. Just need to get the slave and firewall bracket and that's done. My build has stopped now as I'm confused on what oil pan to use and see you had an interesting approach to setting up your motor. I have S&P type mounts with a 1 inch set back along with tall/narrow energy suspension bushings. I've probably spent countless hours researching the pros and cons of each oil pan that will work to give the proper ground and tie rod clearance. Seeing your approach I may try and copy and use one of the S&P modified pans. Have read some possible oil starvation issues, but I'm building a daily driver, not a track car so hopefully I'll be ok.

I wanted to ask what did you do in terms of fuel delivery? Did you use your existing stock tank or buy a new one set up for FI?

Sorry for the long write up, but thought I'd let you know where I'm at and trying to get to were you are as fast as possible without spending my life savings to get this project completed!!!!

silverz28camaro

iTrader: (20)

Nice work, I'm thinking everything needs a ls engine

wade70ss

Thanks!!! It's all on a budget but I just love driving it. AND you're right! Everything needs an LS engine.

One of the guys at my work was talking about getting a Nova II and I mentioned a Grand National swap. He was all about it. But then I had to burst his bubble and tell him that an all aluminum LS motor would probably weigh less than the V6 and net you the same results. "Really????"

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

The water path is not really the cause of the rust. What happens is that leaves and gunk plug up the drain holes in the rocker panels, so the water collects. The standing water is what causes the rust. If the cowl and rockers are kept clean then rust should not be a big deal.

Andrew

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I would also be surprised if your tire didn't make contact with the ECU.

Andrew

wade70ss

The ECU sits well above the steel inner fender. I'm pretty sure I'd have to Dukes of Hazzard this thing to hit it. Lol. Unless I'm wrong.....? It's on Eibach springs. I think if I hit it we would have other things to worry about too!

2165 Turbo Rail

iTrader: (1)

MrBollWeevil97

you can check out my thread too since I also did an A-body car

I used a stock F-body oil pan with no clearance issues at all. (I used the tall and narrow mounts too)

2165 Turbo Rail

iTrader: (1)

I agree! you would have MUCH more to worry about if you hit the computer...

wade70ss

And it's a SWEET thread at that!

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

What was the source? If I get the pedal from a silverado that comes with the engine does that work? I thought I could just get whatever the engine had originally but I saw another post that suggested you need a corvette pedal since its metal and the others are plastic...not sure that's necessary.

wade70ss

Well the TAC box and Throttle body came with my 2001 Tahoe motor. The pedal I sourced from a junk yard out of a 2001 Tahoe, and TAC to Pedal wiring I picked up out of a HD Diesel truck. I believe the year and Throttle body style are the major things to start with. The 3 components must match. As far as the pedal I like the truck pedal because the rod is metal. I think people like the configuration of the vette pedal. Www.speartech.com has a section on the left that details which Throttle bodies come with which cars and which pedals/TAC boxes are associated.

But again: Truck TB + Truck Pedal + Truck TAC box all from the same year/type.

Which Throttle Body do you have? Do you have the TAC box?

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Sorry, I don't know what the TAC is; suspect its the tranny controller? I will be going manual so I don't think I need it. I haven't bought the engine yet but have access to everything since its still in the silverado right now.

wade70ss

TAC stands for "Throttle Actuator Control" Module. They call it a TAC Module. Because the gas pedal is a "Pedal Position Sensor". What it does is sense how far down the gas pedal is, relays that via wiring to the TAC Module, then the TAC module relays that information to the computer and Throttle Body which tells it how far to open the throttle blade. If you plan on running Drive by Wire throttle you'll need all three pieces.

I'm running the 01-02 TRUCK throttle body, 01-07 TRUCK pedal, and the 97-04 TAC Module pictured below.

Here's a quick reference:

wade70ss

You know, I don't think there is any feeling in the world that will ever compare to the first crank up of a new motor. I mean all the blood, sweat and BEERS that go into building something by hand. Manipulating the wiring, calibrating the parts, whatever the case may be. Starting it up for the first time is always the best.

Here's a couple videos of the start up. A little improvising was done on the intake tube and was running open manifolds with the O2's zip-tied to the outlets. Either way.....It's alive.

devlmaycry

iTrader: (2)

nice love your ecu mount.