darksider

Sounds great!

MrBollWeevil97

2165 Turbo Rail. I've read your thread and thanks for the advice. I couldn't completely make out in your photos on how you mounted your frame mounts. Did you move them backwards and did you have to raise them up for tie rod clearance with the f-body pan? I see you are in the DFW area as well. Would love to stop by and see your car in person one of these days.

thx

2165 Turbo Rail

iTrader: (1)

come over to my thread so we don't hijack his thread

but to answer your question we put the motor where we wanted it and drilled new holes... ended up moving it toward the firewall.

since I used the tall frame pads and some tall solid motor mounts I don't have any clearance issues at all

wade70ss

Crazy kids and their forums!!! I definitely recommend doing it the way 2165 and I did. Set the motor in and place it where you want it. Upside: is making sure you clear everything you want. Only Downside: not being able to buy "BRAND X" headers and knowing they will work. I'm ok with that.

2165 Turbo Rail

iTrader: (1)

go turbo and you don't have to worry about that

wade70ss

Oh trust me....it's on my mind. Everyday!

Time, money and space that's all takes. It's just a matter of having all three at the same time.

2165 Turbo Rail

iTrader: (1)

thats like saying you will have a kid when you are ready... you will never be ready so just start it and you'll work through it

MrBollWeevil97

Sorry about that Wade70SS, wasn't trying to hijack your thread. And appreciate the feedback. I've been watching the MastMotorSports thread on there newly released oilpan, but still not sure if I want to spend that coin if I can get a factory f-body version to work. Maybe, one of these days, I can get a chance to see your and 2165's setups. I've got some time as I'm in the middle of rebuilding my brakes and suspension at this time.

wade70ss

It's all good my man. I understand that it's pretty pricey for that new pan. BUT when I weighed it against the cost of buying a Modified F-body pan (considering that I'm not a welder) and having to core one in it was already at $300. I figured what's another $100?? Bad logic, awesome oil pan.

MrBollWeevil97

Very good point Wade70SS!! I guess I need to go ahead and slide the cc one more time!!! I thought I had a well planned budget, but that's out the window now.

mrhotrod69

YOU MAKE IT LOOK EASY!!!!! I'm starting on a silver 70 now with this set up other than I'm running a 4l80.Couple of ???? did oil pan come complete,what type of manlfolds,where did you get the parts including the rad?

wade70ss

Thank you, I appreciate the compliment. I try to make things easy. No sense laboring over it right??

Keep things simple that way when you have to repair or service it later you're not cursing yourself for hiding those bolts, wiring etc. Being a former auto technician I always thing of how it will come apart while putting it together. For example: The trans may fit, but will I be able to do a clutch and get to all the bolts. That lead to cutting the floor and making more room for the trans. That's a drastic example.

Oil pan from www.retrolsx.com came complete with oil filter fitting, pickup tube, drain plug. It reuses the baffle that is bolted in the factory truck pan so that's the only thing I had to switch out.

Manifolds are factory F-body manifolds. I found they fit better than the truck manifolds which hit my frame on the drivers side.

Radiator is from www.speedwaymotors.com which is an AFCO LS-swap radiator for the Chevelle. It's one of the greatest things since sliced bread. car runs 180 on highway, and maybe 190-195 in Texas heat.

what else are you needing? Let me know if you have any questions at all.

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

Awesome build, I want to do something similar when I get done with college

Neil

Dude, very nice build!!! It's the gear-head within us which drives us to this insanity.....I mean who cuts a trans tunnel to fit in a T-56? Awesome job!

wade70ss

Thanks Neil, and you're right. There's something about being a gear-head that fuels insanity. Your intake/TB is insane!!

Oh, here's a quick clip with the new cam installed. Now it's starting to sound like a muscle car.

mrhotrod69

Did you use truck denso compressor for the ac?I'm using the vintage air unit but they say it will have to much head pressure.I can't see how it uses a cycle switch just the same as the t-stat.Plus I have searched everywhere for low mount 508 brackets for stock set up and had no luck.

wade70ss

I used the factory compressor that came with my motor. I just ran the hoses and wired it up as Vintage Air instructions suggested. I haven't had any problems with the cooling or pressures. I am curious what the difference would be with a different compressor. I have heard that there is a factory LS compressor (from some vehicle) that is better suited for our application. Could you make the factory compressor fit?

Aceshigh

Great thread.

I'm in the middle of my LY6/T-56 install into my 1970 442 clone myself.
I've read EVERY sticky in the A-body conversions section and there's always
something new someone else has tried that is interesting to read up on.
For a minute I thought you had gotten away with NOT having to cut your tunnel.
Then .....I realized you did. All the pics you posted most definitely help.

I have a question,
What exact LS swap radiator did you get off Speedway motors?? Is it this one ??
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-1...tor,24907.html

I've been going back and forth on which radiator to choose myself.
I'm curious if anyone has tried the Griffin radiators ??
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-8-70038-LS/

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

I was hoping the tunnel cut had been avoided as well. Going to be part of the fun I guess...

mrhotrod69

I can make the truck style comp fit like yours did.The LS style comp are a varibel dissplacement and I can see how they would not work because on most f bodys and vettes they use a mechanical expansion valve,I know the vintage air unit does too but it most have a different open and close pressure.