Spectra efi gas tank??yay or nay???
02-10-2011, 08:20 PM
#62
Teching In
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After looking at the baffle again, i think it may be too big around the area where the pump pulls gas from. under hard cornering it seems like if at 1/4 tank there is only 1 inch of gas this 1 inch could easily push all the way up the side of the baffle. Similar to this l l
l \ H _l
not quite as steep as the back slash but you get the point. If the gas started at the level of the horizontal line in the H then the width of the baffle may be such that it allows the inch of gas to push far enough against the side and/or back corner of the baffle. What if we just bent the center of the baffle inwards toward the the pump l l so that the gas couldnt run up the sides?
> H <
Idk just a thought?!
l \ H _l
not quite as steep as the back slash but you get the point. If the gas started at the level of the horizontal line in the H then the width of the baffle may be such that it allows the inch of gas to push far enough against the side and/or back corner of the baffle. What if we just bent the center of the baffle inwards toward the the pump l l so that the gas couldnt run up the sides?
> H <
Idk just a thought?!
02-10-2011, 08:54 PM
#63
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Actually there is a gforce app on my iphone. i could fill a milk jug up with an inch of water and hold the iphone in my hand and spin around and see how far up the side of the jug the water goes. Ill check the g force app and if its over 1g and water is still decently in the middle we'll know thats not the issue
Ill have my girlfriend record me so you can see how much of a dumbass i look!!
Ill have my girlfriend record me so you can see how much of a dumbass i look!!
02-10-2011, 08:57 PM
#64
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Another thought is I could put two 1/4 inch holes in the bottom of the jug and use those to get an idea of how quickly the water is exiting, or at least just to get an idea of what is going on in the tank without having to fill our brand new useless tanks up with water 
02-10-2011, 08:57 PM
#65
On The Tree
Actually there is a gforce app on my iphone. i could fill a milk jug up with an inch of water and hold the iphone in my hand and spin around and see how far up the side of the jug the water goes. Ill check the g force app and if its over 1g and water is still decently in the middle we'll know thats not the issue
Ill have my girlfriend record me so you can see how much of a dumbass i look!!
Ill have my girlfriend record me so you can see how much of a dumbass i look!!
02-10-2011, 09:10 PM
#66
69er let me get the firewall done and we will definately get on that. I will post any information I find. Good idea on the different levels of fluid! I will start low as that is the main concern. I will also check to see how far off of the bottom the pump and sock actually are. I will do that first. After reading this thread more and more there are several ideas that might help this tank out.
Steele you are crazy! I want to see the video when you are done. There is a video on youtube somewhere that shows a g force gauge. All it consists of is a piece of tubing bent into a u-shape with some sort of liquid in it. If I remember correctly the liquid moved up the side quite a bit with right at 1g. Still want you to try it and post the video.
Thanks BMF!
I still think I might move the entire assembly to the rear. Maybe half way. We will have to sleep on that one. Worst case scenario I send the new tank back and put a rear sump on my existing carb tank. Not really what I wanted to do but that would take care of all of these problems. I wonder if I cut the new tank and left everything as it is except for the baffles and a lid had it welded back up and sealed. Then go through the fill tube and made a funnel type deal and forced the foam into the tank through it and fill as much of the dead space up with foam would that help. I am sure I can find a fatass here in my county that can put enough *** on it to push the foam in. If there were fur around the filler neck I could prolly thrust it in with my jackhammer hips!
Steele you are crazy! I want to see the video when you are done. There is a video on youtube somewhere that shows a g force gauge. All it consists of is a piece of tubing bent into a u-shape with some sort of liquid in it. If I remember correctly the liquid moved up the side quite a bit with right at 1g. Still want you to try it and post the video.
Thanks BMF!
I still think I might move the entire assembly to the rear. Maybe half way. We will have to sleep on that one. Worst case scenario I send the new tank back and put a rear sump on my existing carb tank. Not really what I wanted to do but that would take care of all of these problems. I wonder if I cut the new tank and left everything as it is except for the baffles and a lid had it welded back up and sealed. Then go through the fill tube and made a funnel type deal and forced the foam into the tank through it and fill as much of the dead space up with foam would that help. I am sure I can find a fatass here in my county that can put enough *** on it to push the foam in. If there were fur around the filler neck I could prolly thrust it in with my jackhammer hips!
02-10-2011, 09:14 PM
#67
Steele dont forget the pan is submerged in a like liquid so it will try to prevent the same liquid from coming out or at least slow it down. Just letting it drain will give the worst case scenario as if the tank was empty of all fuel. What if there were doors over the holes that act as one way valves? Gas comes in but cannot leave. This would work if there was something preventing it from leaving the top of the pan like a lid.
02-11-2011, 07:59 AM
#68
I got it! What about this, we know the dimension of the bottom of the pan. And we know the diameter of the hole that unit has to go through. What if we made a cylindrical baffle that would stop the gas from sloshing around sort of the same concept that firstgens pump assembly does. Lets say the bottom of the pan is 8" at the narrowest point. That means we would need a piece of sheetmetal that is 25 1/8" long to form a circle that is 8" in diameter. Now we need it to be almost as tall as the total heigth of the inside of the tank. at it narrowest point. Cut some reliefs in the bottom of the cylinder to allow gas to enter in. Roll the sheetmetal into a smaller cylinder and zip tie it so it will not unroll. Slide it through the hole and cut the zip tie. Start on one side and with some straight long needle nose pliers start to bend it to form the 8" diameter circle. Have some sort of weld tab on it whether it is on the top or bottom and tack it into place. Drop the fuel pump unit in and go. What about that? Seems like a good deal and no other mods will be necessary. Cheap as well. Let me hear back from you guys on a yeah or neigh!!!
02-11-2011, 08:36 AM
#69
I got it! What about this, we know the dimension of the bottom of the pan. And we know the diameter of the hole that unit has to go through. What if we made a cylindrical baffle that would stop the gas from sloshing around sort of the same concept that firstgens pump assembly does. Lets say the bottom of the pan is 8" at the narrowest point. That means we would need a piece of sheetmetal that is 25 1/8" long to form a circle that is 8" in diameter. Now we need it to be almost as tall as the total heigth of the inside of the tank. at it narrowest point. Cut some reliefs in the bottom of the cylinder to allow gas to enter in. Roll the sheetmetal into a smaller cylinder and zip tie it so it will not unroll. Slide it through the hole and cut the zip tie. Start on one side and with some straight long needle nose pliers start to bend it to form the 8" diameter circle. Have some sort of weld tab on it whether it is on the top or bottom and tack it into place. Drop the fuel pump unit in and go. What about that? Seems like a good deal and no other mods will be necessary. Cheap as well. Let me hear back from you guys on a yeah or neigh!!!
02-11-2011, 08:41 AM
#70
I like the cylinder thought. I had a similar same idea and I think it will help a little. It will still have a hard time keeping the fuel level above the pick up during low fuel conditions. I am conviced that your best bet is what you said about sumping your original pan. My other tank is original, rotten and I can't weld. If I had your skills and a good original tank, I would return the spectra and modify the stock pan. No matter what you do to the spectra, my money would be on the other option. It will always control fuel better, you get to choose your pump, and you could probably do it all for the money you will be refunded. You could also baffle the original tank to help it feed the sump. Of course, the downside is that you will see the sump from the back of the car.
02-11-2011, 09:41 AM
#71
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Getting Tanked Here's a question. Before I bought my Spectra slosh-box I had a 91 Caprice tank that I was going to use. I wish I would've used that instead. Granted it had a huge hump on the top where the fuel pump sat.
But here's the questions:
But here's the questions:
A) does the 91 Caprice tank have any slosh issues??
B) If not, could whatever is inside the Caprice tank be added to the Spectra tank or the Chevelle stock tank. Thus using the internal baffling of the Caprice tank without having to cut a hole in the floor.
B) If not, could whatever is inside the Caprice tank be added to the Spectra tank or the Chevelle stock tank. Thus using the internal baffling of the Caprice tank without having to cut a hole in the floor.
02-11-2011, 11:11 AM
#72
What if I did the cylinder and then stuffed the rest of the tank with fuel cell foam? That would slow the fuel down and with the cylinder holding the fuel at the pump, would that suffice? If it is borderline working now than any improvements must be better, right?
02-11-2011, 05:41 PM
#73
On The Tree
I think if we were to incorporate four 1/2" tabs on the bottom and bend them inwards before it's rolled up,that would plenty to hold it in place. You could also bend them to hold the cylinder up with a small gap at the bottom for flow in. The existing 1/4" holes might already wind up inside the cylinder any way. You should be able to get a MIG tip inside the sender hole to tack them in place.
Did you calculate the 8" as being the minimum diameter required or was that a guess just for discussion sake?
This is looking a hell of a lot better than Spectre's "fix"!
02-11-2011, 05:42 PM
#74
On The Tree
Here's a question. Before I bought my Spectra slosh-box I had a 91 Caprice tank that I was going to use. I wish I would've used that instead. Granted it had a huge hump on the top where the fuel pump sat.
But here's the questions:
But here's the questions:
A) does the 91 Caprice tank have any slosh issues??
B) If not, could whatever is inside the Caprice tank be added to the Spectra tank or the Chevelle stock tank. Thus using the internal baffling of the Caprice tank without having to cut a hole in the floor.
B) If not, could whatever is inside the Caprice tank be added to the Spectra tank or the Chevelle stock tank. Thus using the internal baffling of the Caprice tank without having to cut a hole in the floor.
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