'03 S10 4.3 to 5.3 or 5.7 LS motor
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
'03 S10 4.3 to 5.3 or 5.7 LS motor
OK, since the 4.3 uses the same 4L60E trans & hookup's, is it possible to do the following:
Pick up a wrecked doner vehicle (Vette, F-body, GTO or 2wd truck/van)
Swap over the complete V8 harness/computer
Swap the engine to existing trans (using the F-body exhaust manifolds & y-pipe)
Run aftermarket motor mounts. Then fab what ever else is needed.
This would seem to be the most straight forward way to do the V8 swap. Since all of the electronics of the engine management system are going with the "new" powerplant to the S10, I'd have to figure that the motor didn't know the sheetmetal changed.
The tach signal is going to be off (I get that) and it wouldn't be "pretty" to look at using mostly stock GM parts. But the question stands on wheather or not the GM wiring under the dash is the same or simular to make the engine run as previously installed.
I'm looking to swap on a weekend into a daily driver ('03 S10). It needs to be "plug & play" with a minimum of wiring for extra curcuits. Vehicles listed above can be found inexpensively ($2500 or less) and would nearly break even after parting out "the good stuff" (what ever that may be). GTO's tend to run higher in price, and it appears that the exhaust may not work in an S10 with out some love from the BFH.
SO, is this a doable plan? My understanding is that the engine management system, run in its entirety, is a stand alone.
Jim
Pick up a wrecked doner vehicle (Vette, F-body, GTO or 2wd truck/van)
Swap over the complete V8 harness/computer
Swap the engine to existing trans (using the F-body exhaust manifolds & y-pipe)
Run aftermarket motor mounts. Then fab what ever else is needed.
This would seem to be the most straight forward way to do the V8 swap. Since all of the electronics of the engine management system are going with the "new" powerplant to the S10, I'd have to figure that the motor didn't know the sheetmetal changed.
The tach signal is going to be off (I get that) and it wouldn't be "pretty" to look at using mostly stock GM parts. But the question stands on wheather or not the GM wiring under the dash is the same or simular to make the engine run as previously installed.
I'm looking to swap on a weekend into a daily driver ('03 S10). It needs to be "plug & play" with a minimum of wiring for extra curcuits. Vehicles listed above can be found inexpensively ($2500 or less) and would nearly break even after parting out "the good stuff" (what ever that may be). GTO's tend to run higher in price, and it appears that the exhaust may not work in an S10 with out some love from the BFH.
SO, is this a doable plan? My understanding is that the engine management system, run in its entirety, is a stand alone.
Jim
#3
S10forum has an LS swap section
As far as wiring, you'd most likely be better off using a truch harness, since it can be make to plug in to the S10 fusebox on the 98 and newer one
The tach should still work since its a class 2 data buss signal
Only the 98 / 99 F-dody exhaust manifold fit in the S10 swap, without massive massaging
Why wouldn't you use the donor vehicle tranny, its made to work with the motor, the S10 one isn't, its made for a V6
Current performance makes plug and play harnesses for that swap, I'm sure others do too
As far as wiring, you'd most likely be better off using a truch harness, since it can be make to plug in to the S10 fusebox on the 98 and newer one
The tach should still work since its a class 2 data buss signal
Only the 98 / 99 F-dody exhaust manifold fit in the S10 swap, without massive massaging
Why wouldn't you use the donor vehicle tranny, its made to work with the motor, the S10 one isn't, its made for a V6
Current performance makes plug and play harnesses for that swap, I'm sure others do too
#5
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I'm doing a LM7 5.3L swap in my 98. The motor came out of a 04 1500 p/u. I plan on reusing my v6 4l60 trans, and rebuilding it with a Monster Trans rebuild kit. I know in my situation, I'm going to have to swap out the bell housing and input shaft for the V8 parts. Going with the trans from your donor vehicle is probably your best bet. As far as your wiring harness, call Current Performance with any questions. They specialize in V8 s10's. Do you have your set on using factory exhaust manifolds? You can pick up ls1 s10 headers for a good price and they'll give you a little more power than the stockers.
#6
i used my v6 trans for my swap i think 2 bolts dont line up so i left them out, the wiring to the fuse box isnt to bad just have to move alot of wires to diff spots,my tach is off to the only way it will be right is if u start with a 2.2 s-10, i used a pair of stainless steel ls1 manifolds and they clear the steering shaft good.u can find a set pretty cheap, and u can reuse ur v6 radiator. The only wires u need to do is the 16 way plug in by the blower motor for the class 2 data and insturment cluster hope this helps u a little
#7
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Truck
The vehicle in question is a 2003 S10, ZQ8 with 4.3 & 4L60E trans, towing & HD cooling. So some of the swap is "done" already. THe trans will hold up to a stock 5.3.
Reason I don't want to swap out the trans is the most of the donor trucks in my area are 4WD, mine isn't. Have access to a great trans guy if I need to rebuild the stock unit.
Already knew about the F-body manifolds (98-99) and really didn't want the hassel of headers (plus $795 is not budget friendly).
Tach will be off due to the construction of the curcuit board that drives the tach signal. THere is a resistor in there that has to be swapped out to get the tach to operate at the correct range. Just swapping in the engine the tach will read 1250 - 1500 high, (2.2 swap is 2000-2500rpm high), I guess it would freak out passengers seeing the truck redline so easy!
Right now I'm building a V8 S-10 for a guy in CO. runs a L69 305/TH700R4 combo with a few speed parts. So some of the "issues" I am familier with already (did a 350/350 S10 a while ago). My driver is much nicer than the other truck, and really needs to stay available as a driver.
I did have to do the pin-outs on the 305 truck (was a 2.2) so that is not too big of a deal. Anybody got a wiring diagram for a 2003?
Reason I don't want to swap out the trans is the most of the donor trucks in my area are 4WD, mine isn't. Have access to a great trans guy if I need to rebuild the stock unit.
Already knew about the F-body manifolds (98-99) and really didn't want the hassel of headers (plus $795 is not budget friendly).
Tach will be off due to the construction of the curcuit board that drives the tach signal. THere is a resistor in there that has to be swapped out to get the tach to operate at the correct range. Just swapping in the engine the tach will read 1250 - 1500 high, (2.2 swap is 2000-2500rpm high), I guess it would freak out passengers seeing the truck redline so easy!
Right now I'm building a V8 S-10 for a guy in CO. runs a L69 305/TH700R4 combo with a few speed parts. So some of the "issues" I am familier with already (did a 350/350 S10 a while ago). My driver is much nicer than the other truck, and really needs to stay available as a driver.
I did have to do the pin-outs on the 305 truck (was a 2.2) so that is not too big of a deal. Anybody got a wiring diagram for a 2003?
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#9
S10forum has an LS swap section
As far as wiring, you'd most likely be better off using a truch harness, since it can be make to plug in to the S10 fusebox on the 98 and newer one
The tach should still work since its a class 2 data buss signal
Only the 98 / 99 F-dody exhaust manifold fit in the S10 swap, without massive massaging
Why wouldn't you use the donor vehicle tranny, its made to work with the motor, the S10 one isn't, its made for a V6
Current performance makes plug and play harnesses for that swap, I'm sure others do too
As far as wiring, you'd most likely be better off using a truch harness, since it can be make to plug in to the S10 fusebox on the 98 and newer one
The tach should still work since its a class 2 data buss signal
Only the 98 / 99 F-dody exhaust manifold fit in the S10 swap, without massive massaging
Why wouldn't you use the donor vehicle tranny, its made to work with the motor, the S10 one isn't, its made for a V6
Current performance makes plug and play harnesses for that swap, I'm sure others do too
Should work on the S-10
http://www.mazdatrucking.com/forum/s...Tachometer-Mod
Edit: I Just realized this list parts for an earlier chevy tach, but the method may be similar, just get the part you need from the 98-02 Camaro and firebird and put it in the s10 tachometer.
I am pretty sure a very similar method can be used to make the parts from the 98-02 camaro and firebird work on the 96+ S10
Last edited by Brian Mizell; 12-13-2016 at 05:11 PM.
#10
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Tach Signal
The 1998 and up S-series is calibrated inside the ECU. This should read correctly after the swap. The earlier A Body, F Body, H Body and G Body tachs are different and need the link modification done (did a V8 Vega). BTW - this is a really old thread. My S-10 project is underway now. Jim
#11
OK, since the 4.3 uses the same 4L60E trans & hookup's, is it possible to do the following:
Pick up a wrecked doner vehicle (Vette, F-body, GTO or 2wd truck/van)
Swap over the complete V8 harness/computer
Swap the engine to existing trans (using the F-body exhaust manifolds & y-pipe)
Run aftermarket motor mounts. Then fab what ever else is needed.
This would seem to be the most straight forward way to do the V8 swap. Since all of the electronics of the engine management system are going with the "new" powerplant to the S10, I'd have to figure that the motor didn't know the sheetmetal changed.
The tach signal is going to be off (I get that) and it wouldn't be "pretty" to look at using mostly stock GM parts. But the question stands on wheather or not the GM wiring under the dash is the same or simular to make the engine run as previously installed.
I'm looking to swap on a weekend into a daily driver ('03 S10). It needs to be "plug & play" with a minimum of wiring for extra curcuits. Vehicles listed above can be found inexpensively ($2500 or less) and would nearly break even after parting out "the good stuff" (what ever that may be). GTO's tend to run higher in price, and it appears that the exhaust may not work in an S10 with out some love from the BFH.
SO, is this a doable plan? My understanding is that the engine management system, run in its entirety, is a stand alone.
Jim
Pick up a wrecked doner vehicle (Vette, F-body, GTO or 2wd truck/van)
Swap over the complete V8 harness/computer
Swap the engine to existing trans (using the F-body exhaust manifolds & y-pipe)
Run aftermarket motor mounts. Then fab what ever else is needed.
This would seem to be the most straight forward way to do the V8 swap. Since all of the electronics of the engine management system are going with the "new" powerplant to the S10, I'd have to figure that the motor didn't know the sheetmetal changed.
The tach signal is going to be off (I get that) and it wouldn't be "pretty" to look at using mostly stock GM parts. But the question stands on wheather or not the GM wiring under the dash is the same or simular to make the engine run as previously installed.
I'm looking to swap on a weekend into a daily driver ('03 S10). It needs to be "plug & play" with a minimum of wiring for extra curcuits. Vehicles listed above can be found inexpensively ($2500 or less) and would nearly break even after parting out "the good stuff" (what ever that may be). GTO's tend to run higher in price, and it appears that the exhaust may not work in an S10 with out some love from the BFH.
SO, is this a doable plan? My understanding is that the engine management system, run in its entirety, is a stand alone.
Jim
Did u ever finish this swap? Im collecting parts for my swap and all i need is exhaust and motor mounts i think im swapping the 5.3ls into 984.3l s10 i have the harness and computer so i too figure I'm about ready
#12
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Hey Kyle, yes I did finish the swap and drove it for about a year. I used the eBay slider style engine side mount and the stock 4.3 clamshell frame side mount. I did a lot of posting on the S10forum.com site. Tons of great info there for the swap. Talk to MeanyellowZ on this page and on the S10 site. He's from IA.
My exhaust was 1998 F-body manifolds. The driver's side is a total bolt on. Pass side required a bit of cutting on the manifold to remove emissions and clear the upper control arm. Custom fabbed the Y pipe and merged into the S10 stock exhaust. You can keep the cat in place. The other option is headers. The guy that bought the truck was local, he did a real exhaust onto the truck with headers. This cured a nagging exhaust leak that was throwing engine codes for being lean at idle.
Depending on the oil pan you use, the frame cross member will need about a inch cut at the rear of the x member. That will allow the engine to fully seat down in the frame using the above noted mounts. Be sure to unbolt the front of the cab and put a 4x4 block in at the mount. This will tilt the cab back and allow the trans to slip in. You will have to pound the floor seam flat in the tunnel for clearance.
If your going automatic trans, the stock S-10 4.3 version of the 4L60e will work. Remember that it is going to be a weak link if you add a bunch of power (same with the 7.625 rear end). Depending on the year of your engine, you may need and adapter flexplate. Early 5.3 (mine was a 1999 LM7) has a dished flex plate. Jegs sells replacement to fix that issue. Also note that the 4.3 version (and 2.2) of a 4L60 has a 298mm input shaft, the LS1 torque converter won't work (guess how I know) as it is a 300mm input.
Radiator, the 4.3 unit will work to get you going. summer driving I'd go with something different. BTW a 1997 Corvette radiator doesn't work either.
ECU - the 0411 works, VATS has to be removed or you go crazy trying to figure out why it keeps dying.
My exhaust was 1998 F-body manifolds. The driver's side is a total bolt on. Pass side required a bit of cutting on the manifold to remove emissions and clear the upper control arm. Custom fabbed the Y pipe and merged into the S10 stock exhaust. You can keep the cat in place. The other option is headers. The guy that bought the truck was local, he did a real exhaust onto the truck with headers. This cured a nagging exhaust leak that was throwing engine codes for being lean at idle.
Depending on the oil pan you use, the frame cross member will need about a inch cut at the rear of the x member. That will allow the engine to fully seat down in the frame using the above noted mounts. Be sure to unbolt the front of the cab and put a 4x4 block in at the mount. This will tilt the cab back and allow the trans to slip in. You will have to pound the floor seam flat in the tunnel for clearance.
If your going automatic trans, the stock S-10 4.3 version of the 4L60e will work. Remember that it is going to be a weak link if you add a bunch of power (same with the 7.625 rear end). Depending on the year of your engine, you may need and adapter flexplate. Early 5.3 (mine was a 1999 LM7) has a dished flex plate. Jegs sells replacement to fix that issue. Also note that the 4.3 version (and 2.2) of a 4L60 has a 298mm input shaft, the LS1 torque converter won't work (guess how I know) as it is a 300mm input.
Radiator, the 4.3 unit will work to get you going. summer driving I'd go with something different. BTW a 1997 Corvette radiator doesn't work either.
ECU - the 0411 works, VATS has to be removed or you go crazy trying to figure out why it keeps dying.