'88 Monte Carlo SS w/ LY6 6.0 swap
12-28-2013, 11:55 AM
#81
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December 26th, 2013
Not the prettiest but the floor is all seam-sealed top and bottom. New bucket seat mounts welded in place. some extra metal welded in at the center brace.
Finished painting the bottom firewall and front half of the underside floor with some 3M rubberized undercoat
Motor is back in to stay.
Going to reuse the original crossmember after welding a longer tab for the transmount. hit it with some rust converter and test fit.
Not the prettiest but the floor is all seam-sealed top and bottom. New bucket seat mounts welded in place. some extra metal welded in at the center brace.
Finished painting the bottom firewall and front half of the underside floor with some 3M rubberized undercoat
Motor is back in to stay.
Going to reuse the original crossmember after welding a longer tab for the transmount. hit it with some rust converter and test fit.
Last edited by SSlick406; 02-25-2016 at 10:40 AM.
12-28-2013, 01:53 PM
#82
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Looking good man....thank god my floors were not in bad shape.....I would have passed this car on lol. I am trying to get my firewall stripped as much as possible and painted before we put the drivetrain back in for good. How hard is it to take off the brake booster? I think I am going to leave the ac/heater box installed but try and take off the booster unless I can get in on the fire wall enough. Trying to be one and done with the bay, paint it now and be done with it.
12-28-2013, 04:55 PM
#83
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Looking good man....thank god my floors were not in bad shape.....I would have passed this car on lol. I am trying to get my firewall stripped as much as possible and painted before we put the drivetrain back in for good. How hard is it to take off the brake booster? I think I am going to leave the ac/heater box installed but try and take off the booster unless I can get in on the fire wall enough. Trying to be one and done with the bay, paint it now and be done with it.
1. Disconnect the brake pedal linkage under the dash.
2. Unbolt and carefully pull away the master cylinder from the booster. Don't disconnect the brake fluid lines.
3. Disconnect the power brake vacuum hose.
4. Unbolt the booster from the firewall and remove.
5. Reverse these steps for assembly.
06-09-2014, 09:39 PM
#85
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Not much for updates lately. Had to get the car moved back to my garage a few months back. Got the front clip back on and trailered her home. Things should move a little faster after I get the body mounts replaced (dreading doing that.)
02-24-2015, 12:09 PM
#88
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Got some work in a few months back before it got miserable here in Chicago. Pulled the front fenders back off and started tackling the body mounts. Soaked everything with PB as well as I could several times over a week or two before I made the leap. They came out better than I thought they would but it does seem like most of the cage nuts were spinning while I backed the bolts out. #6 and #7 on the passenger side behind the rear wheel were the only real trouble makers. Looks like I'll have to open up the floor to get at them. Here's a couple obligatory rusty mount shots...
Also, got a couple coats of Eastwood's rubberized encapsulator on the floor. Cleaned up and painted the seat rails and did another little test fit on the new seat mounts. I have to admit that I sat behind the wheel for a minute or two. :burgfront:
Also, got a couple coats of Eastwood's rubberized encapsulator on the floor. Cleaned up and painted the seat rails and did another little test fit on the new seat mounts. I have to admit that I sat behind the wheel for a minute or two. :burgfront:
04-02-2015, 04:46 PM
#89
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As I suspected I Had to cut into the trunk to get at mounts #6 and #7. They were spinning freely and after I got into the body the cages for the nuts were basically sitting loose in the channel. Anyone have any suggestions on a good alternative to cage-nuts when I put the new mounts back in?
While I was cutting I noticed some extra smoke. When I peeled back the metal I found an old mouse house and his stash of seeds along with some paper towel bedding.
Took a nice close-up shot to show how rusty the bolt and cage nut get in there.
I Used a long flathead to hold the nut in place while I wrenched the bolt out. I was able to get everything out by myself. However, having a friend come over to help would have been alot easier
It was in the 70's here in Chicago last week (and since gone back into the 30's with about 5-6" of snow) so I used the rest of the daylight I had left on the porch with a beer and my feet up
While I was cutting I noticed some extra smoke. When I peeled back the metal I found an old mouse house and his stash of seeds along with some paper towel bedding.
Took a nice close-up shot to show how rusty the bolt and cage nut get in there.
I Used a long flathead to hold the nut in place while I wrenched the bolt out. I was able to get everything out by myself. However, having a friend come over to help would have been alot easier
It was in the 70's here in Chicago last week (and since gone back into the 30's with about 5-6" of snow) so I used the rest of the daylight I had left on the porch with a beer and my feet up
04-04-2015, 11:10 AM
#90
Great job and you got skilz..just dissapointed that you take everything you do to a higher level ,,,and than you dont hang any turbos off that motor
Where in Chicago are you.
Dennis
Where in Chicago are you.
Dennis
04-05-2015, 08:17 AM
#91
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Thanks man! Turbos could be in the future (one of the reasons I went with the iron block ly6) I'm out in Arlington Heights. How about you?
05-05-2016, 01:05 AM
#92
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LS swap help Hi guys im Jaz i'm in desperate need of some information that I'm hoping someone can help me get I have a 1988 Monte Carlo SS I am putting a 2006 Cadillac Escalade 6.0 in it what I was wondering can somebody please give me a list of all the parts I'm going to need to make this work I have the complete motor with Computer and fuse box and O2 sensor's And factory wires harness thanks in advance for your help
05-25-2016, 10:26 PM
#93
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Picked up a re-worked frame from local guy. Boxed c channels, Notched rear, Upper and lower rear control arm braces, drive-shaft loop/brace, tubular back half, re-welded factory seams, and gloss black powder coat. Excited to swap everything over!
06-09-2016, 10:08 PM
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Finally got around to separating the body and frame. I ensured everything was disconnected (steering shaft, parking brake cable, brake fluid reservoir, etc.) I used two 3-ton jacks and some wood blocks up front. Took it real slow until I had enough clearance over the trans to position a 4x4 across the body. Moved the the rear where I enlisted a 1-ton hoist and hooked up at the trunk latch. I'm sure this isn't the safest method but, I spoke with a couple people who successfully lifted their G-body in the same manner. I then placed another 4x4 in front of the rear wheel-well.
I'm glad I picked up the new frame as the #2 mount locations are in definite need of repair. Surprisingly the rest of the mount locations weren't that bad. I'm hoping there is enough structure left at the body side mount locations.
I had a little extra time so I also situated the Energy Suspension body mounts on the new frame.
I'm glad I picked up the new frame as the #2 mount locations are in definite need of repair. Surprisingly the rest of the mount locations weren't that bad. I'm hoping there is enough structure left at the body side mount locations.
I had a little extra time so I also situated the Energy Suspension body mounts on the new frame.
10-19-2016, 07:37 AM
#99
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Nice work good job on the body mounts ..
I always tighting the bolts first some before I start to come out some . Then work it out back and fort -- the rust act like loctite ..
How low do that tranny pan hang below the cross member.?
I want too do a six sp in a 77 Trans am .. I have a built 4-L80 4 k stall
You doing a stall too?
What size wheels combo you going with ??
Keep it up
I always tighting the bolts first some before I start to come out some . Then work it out back and fort -- the rust act like loctite ..
How low do that tranny pan hang below the cross member.?
I want too do a six sp in a 77 Trans am .. I have a built 4-L80 4 k stall
You doing a stall too?
What size wheels combo you going with ??
Keep it up
06-26-2017, 10:58 PM
#100
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Nice work good job on the body mounts ..
I always tighting the bolts first some before I start to come out some . Then work it out back and fort -- the rust act like loctite ..
How low do that tranny pan hang below the cross member.?
I want too do a six sp in a 77 Trans am .. I have a built 4-L80 4 k stall
You doing a stall too?
What size wheels combo you going with ??
Keep it up
I always tighting the bolts first some before I start to come out some . Then work it out back and fort -- the rust act like loctite ..
How low do that tranny pan hang below the cross member.?
I want too do a six sp in a 77 Trans am .. I have a built 4-L80 4 k stall
You doing a stall too?
What size wheels combo you going with ??
Keep it up
Even though it'll be more work later if I want to go with a different torque converter I'll probably stay stock for now so I can get this thing on the road. I have some 17x8 TT2's for the car.