Dynamax headers scrape in lowered first gens!
10-30-2011, 08:20 PM
#22
I have hotchkiss 2" front drop springs (part no 19830012) and just installed the global west L16 1 1/5" lowering rear springs. Edelbrock IAS shocks all around. I must have the wrong mounts/frame stands or something, because look at this crap:
I'm going to try raising the front 1" with spacers, and if I still scrape a lot I am going to swap out some mid length headers or something. Before the lowering rear springs (think joe dirt) the exhaust was a bit low, but this is just too crazy.
I'm going to try raising the front 1" with spacers, and if I still scrape a lot I am going to swap out some mid length headers or something. Before the lowering rear springs (think joe dirt) the exhaust was a bit low, but this is just too crazy.
10-30-2011, 08:24 PM
#23
10-31-2011, 09:21 AM
#24
I have the stock engine stands (327) with Energy Suspension mounts to match and my headers hang below the cross member about half the diameter of the collector. My engine sits at a negative 3-5 degrees. It seems as if your engine is tilted back considerably taking note of the header angle.
10-31-2011, 09:48 AM
#25
Suspension Not The Problem?? Originally Posted by rp0029
I have hotchkiss 2" front drop springs (part no 19830012) and just installed the global west L16 1 1/5" lowering rear springs. Edelbrock IAS shocks all around. I must have the wrong mounts/frame stands or something, because look at this crap
Those dynatech headers are known to hang low,
How could the suspension not be a big part of the problem with 2" front drop springs and the global west rear lowering springs, there is always a trade off on functionality and form. And unfortunately at least in this case you get what you pay for on the Dynatechs vs. Kooks, I hope you can find a solution for your car, Good Luck
I have hotchkiss 2" front drop springs (part no 19830012) and just installed the global west L16 1 1/5" lowering rear springs. Edelbrock IAS shocks all around. I must have the wrong mounts/frame stands or something, because look at this crap
Those dynatech headers are known to hang low,
How could the suspension not be a big part of the problem with 2" front drop springs and the global west rear lowering springs, there is always a trade off on functionality and form. And unfortunately at least in this case you get what you pay for on the Dynatechs vs. Kooks, I hope you can find a solution for your car, Good Luck
10-31-2011, 11:57 AM
#26
With the Dougs headers and Dougs adapters I installed on my Nova, the collector tube OD is only about 1/4" below the frame. Once flanges are added it will eat up a little bit more clearance, but looking at your pictures the Dougs headers are MUCH MUCH tighter to the car. Looking at the pics posted in this thread, there's no way I would go with the Dynatechs over the Dougs.
10-31-2011, 02:43 PM
#27
Just to give you a comparison from one Camaro to another. Here is a photo with my subframe as a reference point. I am at a negative 3-5 degrees at the engine using the stock 327 factory engine stands with matching ES mounts. I have the Swaptech adapters flipped over.
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10-31-2011, 04:23 PM
#28
Just to give you a comparison from one Camaro to another. Here is a photo with my subframe as a reference point. I am at a negative 3-5 degrees at the engine using the stock 327 factory engine stands with matching ES mounts. I have the Swaptech adapters flipped over.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]Could be an NC thing.
11-01-2011, 03:56 AM
#31
Rp0029= The mids will prolly be the easiest solution if your Dynatechs hang that low. I would do something different if I was in your position. Have you called Dynatech to see if they have any suggestions? How thick are your adapter plates? Which engine stand/mount combination are you using? You stated earlier that the transmission was at 2 degrees, if that is the case then the engine should be the same. Did you check it with the car level? I would double check it with the car sitting on all fours at the water pump or the crank pulley.
11-01-2011, 06:13 AM
#32
Luckily I don't have the expense of a wife or kids so I don't get bitched at for throwing all of my disposable income at this freaking car. Despite the expense (or maybe because of it) I have a feeling it is going to be really special when I'm done. I'd say I'm 10-15 grand in into the swap (including a $2000 14 bolt 9.5" truck rear end, denny's driveshaft, 4l80e, and new interior pieces), and I still need to tune it, paint it and put in an AC.
Speaking of money well spent, check out what I got in the mail yesterday:
11-05-2011, 12:25 PM
#36
Well gentlemen, I have decided I want to try to keep the Dynatech headers. My angles must be way off - I can't measure right now because the car isn't on the ground (installing suspension). I can jack the transmission up to where the exhaust raises up about 3/4 inches. So the plan will be to install taller engine mounts/frame stands and try to make the engine raise about an inch or two. Then I will jack up the transmission and weld the POS cross member together (not to the frame, don't worry) - this should raise it another 3/4 inches. The goal is to get 3 inches of clearance from the lowest point on the exhaust - at least. It's not great, but at least it would be DRIVABLE.
The obvious problem is that there is only about an inch or two between the cross member and the exhaust. It's gonna be close. If I could find a ready made cross member for the 4l80e in my 68 aside from PATC I would. That PATC crossmember is crap. Maybe I'll put in some spring spacers in the front.
The obvious problem is that there is only about an inch or two between the cross member and the exhaust. It's gonna be close. If I could find a ready made cross member for the 4l80e in my 68 aside from PATC I would. That PATC crossmember is crap. Maybe I'll put in some spring spacers in the front.
11-05-2011, 12:54 PM
#37
Well gentlemen, I have decided I want to try to keep the Dynatech headers. My angles must be way off - I can't measure right now because the car isn't on the ground (installing suspension). I can jack the transmission up to where the exhaust raises up about 3/4 inches. So the plan will be to install taller engine mounts/frame stands and try to make the engine raise about an inch or two. Then I will jack up the transmission and weld the POS cross member together (not to the frame, don't worry) - this should raise it another 3/4 inches. The goal is to get 3 inches of clearance from the lowest point on the exhaust - at least. It's not great, but at least it would be DRIVABLE.
The obvious problem is that there is only about an inch or two between the cross member and the exhaust. It's gonna be close. If I could find a ready made cross member for the 4l80e in my 68 aside from PATC I would. That PATC crossmember is crap. Maybe I'll put in some spring spacers in the front.
The obvious problem is that there is only about an inch or two between the cross member and the exhaust. It's gonna be close. If I could find a ready made cross member for the 4l80e in my 68 aside from PATC I would. That PATC crossmember is crap. Maybe I'll put in some spring spacers in the front.
11-06-2011, 01:02 PM
#38
http://www.crossmembers.com/shop/pro...roducts_id=141
http://xfactorcrossmembers.com/shop....roduct=1717795
I'm going with one of these as the PATC member would hit my exhaust. Anyone have any experience with either?
http://xfactorcrossmembers.com/shop....roduct=1717795
I'm going with one of these as the PATC member would hit my exhaust. Anyone have any experience with either?
