Grinding ribs on a GTO oil pan for clearance???
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Grinding ribs on a GTO oil pan for clearance???
I'm working on installing a 6.0 in my 54 Ford, to make a long story short the cast aluminum GTO oil pan makes this possible since its a front sump (aka Ford)
My problem is i'm also installing a center steer power rack as well behind the main front crossmember and i need more clearance on the back of the oil pan where there are 2 cast structural ribs to reinforce the area where the bottom of the trans bolts up to the back of the oil pan. You still with me lol?
I'm not wanting to remove the entire ribs just needing to put some major notch in them. Do you see any issues with this mod?
Thanks!
My problem is i'm also installing a center steer power rack as well behind the main front crossmember and i need more clearance on the back of the oil pan where there are 2 cast structural ribs to reinforce the area where the bottom of the trans bolts up to the back of the oil pan. You still with me lol?
I'm not wanting to remove the entire ribs just needing to put some major notch in them. Do you see any issues with this mod?
Thanks!
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Wow, you hit it right on the head! Great pics, i wasn't even going to hack that much off lol
This drivetrain shouldn't ever see too much hp, so i didn't figure it'd make that much difference in my case.
Thanks for the input guys, great help!!!!
Hey dueces, did you still run the bottom part of the trans cover with it machined off like that??? aka you didn't have anything to bolt it to right so you just used the upper bellhousing bolts that go into the block??
This drivetrain shouldn't ever see too much hp, so i didn't figure it'd make that much difference in my case.
Thanks for the input guys, great help!!!!
Hey dueces, did you still run the bottom part of the trans cover with it machined off like that??? aka you didn't have anything to bolt it to right so you just used the upper bellhousing bolts that go into the block??
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I'm sure i could figure out how much material you could remove before you reach "critical" point based on the cross sectional areas of the ribs themselves. But like someone elsealready mentioned the oil pan is a stressed memeber of the engine assembly, meaning that it removes some of the stress from the block itself, one of the key features that make an LS engine so strong. All in all ithink you will be perfectly fine unless you start to go near the 500 hp mark, which is the theoretical HP level tht some stock parts will give out if the motor is raced or beaten on. Anyway I think you should be good unless you plan on throwing a few hairdryers on it lol. Cool project, good luck man...these LS conversions are fun because you run in to problems and then you solve them, i look at it this way, the more problems you solve the more of the car is desinedby you, making the car more indivdual and more YOURS. Later...
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Wow, you hit it right on the head! Great pics, i wasn't even going to hack that much off lol
This drivetrain shouldn't ever see too much hp, so i didn't figure it'd make that much difference in my case.
Thanks for the input guys, great help!!!!
Hey dueces, did you still run the bottom part of the trans cover with it machined off like that??? aka you didn't have anything to bolt it to right so you just used the upper bellhousing bolts that go into the block??
This drivetrain shouldn't ever see too much hp, so i didn't figure it'd make that much difference in my case.
Thanks for the input guys, great help!!!!
Hey dueces, did you still run the bottom part of the trans cover with it machined off like that??? aka you didn't have anything to bolt it to right so you just used the upper bellhousing bolts that go into the block??