Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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84 Monte 5.3 Build

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Old 01-20-2012, 09:48 AM
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Well, I found a good deal and jumped on it, so I now have headers and a Y-Pipe coming for my swap. They're MAC headers for an F-body, and obviously they're used, but I think they'll fit my car really well. I do a lot of coating with Cerakote and have some high-temp colors here, so these will be media blasted and coated Tungsten Gray.

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The Y-pipe will get butchered to use the Cats for my dual exhaust system.
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-matt
Old 03-27-2012, 11:10 AM
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A little update here, the weather is nice again here in MN, so I'm back to working on the car. The MAC headers didn't fit my Monte Carlo worth a crap, so they'll be coated and put back up on ebay for resale. They don't tuck close enough to the motor to fit between the frame rails, and it'd be too much surgery to get them to fit right. I debated on picking up a set of Sanderson swap headers, but found some nice 2000-2002 F-body manifolds on ebay for $55 shipped, so that's the route I'm going.



Also, I ordered an Autokraft oil pan kit to solve my crossmember and ground clearance issues with the truck pan. $400 might seem like a lot, but for about $100 over an Fbody kit I think it's a worthy investment. It's also something that will never be outgrown by motor upgrades in the future. Also, I ordered over the phone and they were incredibly helpful and pleasant to deal with. They have pans in stock and my pan will be shipping out today, would definitely buy from them again.

Here's their stock images of the kit, I'll post actual pictures when it arrives.



-matt
Old 03-29-2012, 04:57 PM
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My Autokraft pan showed up yesterday, and it looks great! For $400, it's well-worth the money. It seems that every GM stock pan is a compromise for fitment on these cars, along with all the others, where this Autokraft is made to fit them perfectly. Add in the proper baffling, trap doors, and 5.5 quart capacity and you've got one hell of a solid choice for your swap.

I'm hoping to see my manifolds on my doorstep when I get home tonight, it'd be nice to verify their fitment so I can cross that off my list and sell the other manifolds and headers.

-matt
Old 03-30-2012, 01:57 AM
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NICE!! Looks trick! Are you gong to run the cats? I am using the f body manifolds but the cats hit the floorboard...BUT i'm using the transdapt 4595 1in setback plates... Thinking of swapping them out to the normal mount plates. GOOD WORK BTW!
Old 03-30-2012, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 85GPLEf41
NICE!! Looks trick! Are you gong to run the cats? I am using the f body manifolds but the cats hit the floorboard...BUT i'm using the transdapt 4595 1in setback plates... Thinking of swapping them out to the normal mount plates. GOOD WORK BTW!
I'm not 100% sure on the cats yet. Since the MAC headers and Y-pipe are still a full kit I'll probably sell them together. I'd like to have cats since I think they improve the sound, and cut down on some of the exhaust stink, but I'll likely run without cats for a while to see how it sounds.

On my LS1 manifolds, I'm a draftsman and we have a laser here at work so I plan to draw up some 3/8" thick flanges and fab downpipes with them for the LS1 mani's. If you'd like, I could cut an extra set for you.

I'm not sure what to think about the mounts I have. It seems like there's a lot of room behind the motor, but it's basically in the same place as the old SBC. I also don't have to cut the heater box for coil clearance, which to me is a big plus. Guys make a big deal about setting their motor down and back, but for working on it myself, the advantage is so minor that I'd rather keep it where it's at. If you really think about it, moving some heavy items like the battery further back will have a far greater impact on handling than moving the motor back 1 inch.

-matt
Old 03-31-2012, 01:11 AM
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Well after reading a bunch of swaps using the 1in setback plates i was sold on them.. If you do them them and they help then i'm down for a set. I am willing to pay for the part that would help me complete my swap with the transdapt 4595 plates. My Achilles heel is the emissions crap i have to use.. PM me with your ideas. I was thinking of of using stock mount plates to give me the extra clearance i need to use the stock cats and emissions crap.. Unless some body has a CARB exempt headers for a G Body...
Old 04-02-2012, 11:50 AM
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From what I'm seeing with my LS1 manifolds now installed, I think your best bet for fitting the cats would be 1-inch setback plates. Reason being, the outlets on the LS1 mani's are pretty far forward, to the point that with my stock plates I think the cats would hit the rear mount of the lower A-arms. With 1" setback plates I think you'd be in fine shape, but it's hard to say for sure. I think ideally, a guy would put a couple aftermarket cats downline a bit and skip the stock LS1 pieces that are so close to the manifold.

I've got more pictures to post tomorrow, since I'll be gone tonight, but I now have the LS1 manifolds on for mock-up, as well as an air intake in place, which was built from a K&N cold air kit taken off a Chevy 1500.

-matt
Old 04-02-2012, 08:15 PM
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Sounds like i need to find me some ls manifolds too. Im dropping a 5.3 in my 80 Camino and i already have the 1 in set back plates. Im not running the cats for now so I can eliminate that . Do the ls manifolds clear all the fitment issues up otherwise? I was thinking of cutting my truck manifolds and change the angle on the outlet. I can stick weld and braze all day . But have never laid a hand on a tig torch .
Old 04-02-2012, 08:30 PM
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I used the truck manifolds in my Chevelle and cut the flanges off and welded v-bands on. clears great, easy to MIG weld and best of all, no leaks.
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Old 04-03-2012, 07:00 AM
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Regarding the broken exhaust manifold bolts.
I had two that broke off.
I used this method. Worked great.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BFUfGKU_ts
Old 04-09-2012, 08:49 AM
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Well, I ended up moving the mounts back 1 inch on the frame, it was necessary for the PS Pulley (already a smaller one, Dorman 300-201) to clear the steering box.

With this new 1" of setback, everything fits perfect. Even the troublesome passenger side rear coil mount clears the heater box with a little room to spare. The LS1 exhaust manifold outlets now have plenty of room as well. When the motor was out, we put the Autokraft pan on, the fit is outstanding. Lots of room above the crossmember, and the sump is tucked up 3/4" from the bottom of the crossmember, it was well-worth the $400 pricetag.

Pics tonight.

-matt
Old 04-09-2012, 06:16 PM
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Is that a fiberglass hood? Im running the truck intake on my 80 camino for now and have to decide what kind if hood to run . The truck intake needs a few more inches than i thought . And looks like the cheapest route for the time is a new hood . 50 bucks for a hood in the boneyard and 70 for a cowl VS 400+ for an intake and i havent even looked to see what i would have to change with a ls intake . Im assuming at the least the water pump . I didnt get crap done to mine this weekend due to a pesky motor mount that did not want to bolt up properly . Look forward to the new pics. Looking good so far.
Old 04-10-2012, 11:24 AM
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It is indeed a fiberglass hood, a really cheap one with terrible quality, but it seems to do the trick for now. You could go with the LS1 intake for much cheaper than the LS6 one ($150-175 for LS1 with rails), but you'll lose power versus the truck intake. I like the truck intake for the power it makes without a bunch of added cost, despite the fact that it's ugly. That said, I've seen guys with shaved truck intakes clear stock G-body hood bracing just fine. It's hard to know until you try one in your own car.

You can run the LS1 intake with your truck water pump, but you have to do something a little different with the outlet tube on it.

Thanks!

-matt
Old 04-10-2012, 02:50 PM
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Looking at it im sure i could stuff it down onto my cross member and shave the top and would fit nice and tight . I like the rounded intake covers and aftermarket coil cover look myself. I literally have $75 bucks out of pocket into the swap and im still being cheap . I just got to get off the wallet is all . Ill pick up one of those autokraft pans and stuff it down on the frame and try to clear the hood. I was holding out on the intake/acc's untill
i get ready to put the ac back in the car later on.
Old 04-10-2012, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by monteboy84
Well, I ended up moving the mounts back 1 inch on the frame, it was necessary for the PS Pulley (already a smaller one, Dorman 300-201) to clear the steering box.

With this new 1" of setback, everything fits perfect. Even the troublesome passenger side rear coil mount clears the heater box with a little room to spare. The LS1 exhaust manifold outlets now have plenty of room as well. When the motor was out, we put the Autokraft pan on, the fit is outstanding. Lots of room above the crossmember, and the sump is tucked up 3/4" from the bottom of the crossmember, it was well-worth the $400 pricetag.

Pics tonight.

-matt

Matt "Pics tonight"..
Old 04-11-2012, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by tta656
Matt "Pics tonight"..
Sorry bud, haven't been home much this week. I'll try to get them up tonight.

-matt
Old 04-11-2012, 10:51 AM
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Great build. I chumped and went carb on mine for two reasns. Cost and I had the intake/ignition. But with cam and heads it went 11.34. Now to spray it.
Old 04-11-2012, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy's Auto
Great build. I chumped and went carb on mine for two reasns. Cost and I had the intake/ignition. But with cam and heads it went 11.34. Now to spray it.
I debated going with a carb, but have tried to keep driveability and fuel mileage high on my list of needs, since first and foremost this is a street car. 11.34 is stout though, well-done

-matt
Old 04-12-2012, 03:09 PM
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on Carbs . Cant argue with a finely tuned carb. Gimme FI or nothing at all please.
Old 04-12-2012, 04:17 PM
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That's my problem, I'm not worth a damn for tuning carbs

In other news, I've got a 2001 Z06 getting shipped in next week, that will be my new summertime DD, so I won't be pushing to hard to rush this car to completion, more time to get everything perfect.

-matt


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