AFischer

Thanks Chris!
Same old game - days off getting farther apart and I'm going to McMaster part time to finish my B.Tech.

Updated the Solidworks model with cage:



Plated the rear strut tower tops and fitted the rear tower member of the cage. Also cut out the rear floor to the frame rails so I can start on fuel cell frame.





Hit up BendTech for the main hoop - thanks Joe!





Cut the main hoop base at ~9 degree angle towards the rear so it sits flush at base when hoop was in place. This is a temporary fastener for subframe btw - inverted socket head shoulder bolt will be the final.



Didn't wanna waste $100 on a lift plate - cut piece of scrap 1/4"x6"x18.5" plate, drilled 10 holes, zipped two 1" pieces of scrap pipe, ground flats on each of them to sit square and just need to weld er up. $2 lift plate (cost of fasteners haha)

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

If the rest of the cage fits as well as that main hoop - I'd buy one.

Is the hoop bent with measurements off Hybridz, or did you do it yourself? Please tell me its saved! lol.

Build looks great!

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Hey, quick question if you don't mind answering. Did that sheet metal plate in the center of the back bulkhead come stock (where the channel locks are in the pic below)? I have an early 240. It doesn't have that extra plate and the bulkhead is rippled badly. I'm wondering if Datsun added that plate to address the weakness in that area.

Also did you check for seat clearance with that piece of channel going inboard behind the seats? Only reason I ask is I just put in a set of Recaros and that channel would prevent them from going very far back.

AFischer

Haha thanks Steep! I measured it myself - I can sketch up a 2D of it and post it someday.

Sorry Pop N Wood - just saw this - that is factory sheet metal and I believe you are correct that it was put there to beef that area up..

By channel do you mean the 6x6 plate or the 1x3? The 6x6 plate has to be there to meet specs for the cage so I'll have to make it work, and the 1x3 should be well clear of the seats. I also don't have very long legs (5'10) and I am doing floor mount pedals so I can put them wherever I need.

Hit up the shop today - got the main diagonal in. Before someone mentions it, I plan on taking the tacks off and cleaning up the weld joints next weekend before continuing the rest of the cage - I just didn't have any emery cloth today.







Also finished up that lift plate. Buying some engine goodies this week hopefully come in for the weekend.



I've decided on making a tubular front subframe - anyone have any good reference examples? It will hold my engine mounts, steering rack and control arms.

Obviously not the wheels I will be running, however these 205/60/R16 have the exact same OD as the 275/40/R17 I have at the shop. Someday will be 315/35/R17, but I'll run the Yokohama 275's I already have first.



The forward rear control arm mount is at 0 degrees centre of mount pivot to the centre of the balljoint at the ride height shown. This leaves 3.5 inches of wheel travel upwards from ride height once I cut out the wheel well and run extra wide ZG flares

The rearward rear control arm mount is at ~5 degrees from centre of mount pivot to centre of balljoint at the ride height shown.

Suspension experts: Is 3.5" enough wheel travel or am I leaving too much or too little of a gap before hitting tire into wheel well? The optimum parallel RLCA - is this to the front mount or the rear mount of the RLCA?

All arms will be adjustable, but if I have to move my subframe mount up - now would be the time to do it.

Also, made these braces up - will make the same for the other side of the engine mount bracket all the way to the firewall.



Factory 2012 Camaro driveshaft with the isolator placed where my transmission flange will be:





This means I can cut the second half of the camaro driveshaft off at roughly that weld line and weld a Q45 flange onto it for mating to my diff. I'll have a U-Joint, Slip yoke as well as the rubber isolator at the transmission output shaft.

Picked up GM LS7 Lifters



As well as GM LS2 Lifter Trays



Everything in blue is done.



I put the Z back on rotisserie today so if this week I can come to a conclusion about the subframe height I can continue on with the cage.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Man, looking good. Well thought out.

Thanks for the feed back on that plate. Another reason the real early models aren't the best starting point for a V8 conversion. I might gusset that area.

rouseyss

wow man amazing work. keep it up it will all be worth it

AFischer

Removed the old 2.5"x2.5" Crossmember.



New 1.5"x3"x.120 cross member - just roughed for now since I didn't get the M20 Socket head shoulder bolts in time.



Clearance to bulkhead. I added 3/4" angle to the bulkhead for strength in that corner, notched the bulkhead and the angle for the 1x3 horizontal piece. Brought a tube from the frame rail down to this at what worked out to exactly 45 degrees Also added 2" angle 6" long to brace the factory crossmember where this 1x3 meets it.









Also picked up one of these for dirt cheap since the powdercoat was dinged on the front face as shown. 50% off for a pure aesthetic? Sold!

04-07 Cadillac CTS-V Brembo Front Caliper
# Pistons: 4 x 40/44mm
Total piston area: 8.61 sq. in. 5554 sq. mm
Rotor Thickness: 1.26 in. (32 mm)
Part #: (L) 89047727

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Wow. don't think I have ever seen the back end of a zed quite that cut up. You're giving me ideas. Can't wait to see it finished.

I am also interested to see how you mount those caddy calipers.

SteveDoten@ARH

Very nice build!!! We are shipping out a few LS 240Z sets this week.

ChristopherWelkin

Just stayed up until 1AM on a school night reading this whole thread, I hate you for that

Awesome work though, you have some really ingenious fixes that I'll definitely be drawing on for future builds

Bilster

iTrader: (21)

Awesome, kick *** build. I have a 1974 260Z that I was going all out on like your project. I'm struggling because its a totally rust free specimen and I probably should restore the damn thing. I'm going to be cutting up my floors like you and going wide body. I've already constructed a full tube chassis with Vette C4 suspension. The early Zs are so attractive to me because they are relatively aerodynamic and they are pre-emissions cars....something that is a serious consideration if you want free reign over your build.

ARZ

Nice!!! cant wait to see the finished project. Don't give up, I have seen countless unfinished build threads. Even I'm not finished, but I do have it to a point where it is quite fun, which makes it difficult to disassemble it and finish the paint and body properly.

Here is a link to my build thread on 2 different forums, (because I'm not sure how it shows up if your not a forum member)

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...7MGTE-487-RWHP

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/...mgte-487-rwhp/

AFischer

Thanks guys - appreciate the feedback!I've been called in to work every weekend so this has not progressed all month

Matched the DS fenderwell to the PS





Turned these up on the lathe since I don't like paying $$$ for $3 in 6061 T6. Solid diff bushings - new to make a few more for the front of my Q45 diff.



Started sketching my front knuckle to design CTS-V Brembo caliper adapter.



Old setup:



New setup - not shown but welded pipe nipples into the holes like the old setup to sleeve bolts/help crush.



Tacked in place after measuring from a number of reference points.



I'll have new front subframe mounts done next weekend and continue on with cage A-pillars!

brandonk

iTrader: (5)

i absolutely love build threads like this, detailed in every way, just awesome

AFischer

Soo this happened a few weeks ago



So I was out of the game for a bit, but starting back into er now.

Took this setup



And stuffed it in here









Had to chop the factory transmission mounts off the car to get the TR6060 to clear but there is plenty of room in there otherwise. The shift is about 2" too far back but that is no sweat since it has a 6" long bracket connected to a rod which can both be shortened.

The steering rack is going to be an issue but ill deal with that after I make my mounts.



Also, this is waiting for a rainy day.

AFischer

Thanks edson,

While I've been down with the ACL tear I had some powdercoating done by JP @ Strip Tech. My Cusco RUCA's as well as the LQ9 valve covers in wrinkle red.







And to start rebuilding the RUCA's since it seems like the PO didn't know they were left hand thread.. QA1 XMR12 chromoly rod ends - I just need to turn up the 3/4 to M26x1.5LH adapter this week.



Picked up a set of JDMFlares Wide ZG fender flares - 3.75" in the rear, 3.25" in the front. I'm not a fan of doing the usual sheet metal screw so I grabbed M8 nutserts and the tool to install them.




The interior was pretty haggard from welding the rails and sitting forever. All seam sealer is gone, penetrating welds smoothed and all the remnants of sound deadening gone as well.




Made these up for the front cage mounts






Now that the front mounts are done, need to clearance the cowl a bit to allow a nice tight fit of cage to A-pillar.



Also need to cut some tube with an ID larger than the OD of your cage, in an odd shape similar to the pic.



I still have to finish up the cowl clearancing but that's it for today!

thepyro1

Your build thread is great. And it looks like were in the same line of work too I assume you have kept all your solid works models, but do you have one of just the z chassis you would be willing to share. Im trying to avoid having to start from scrap. I am kind of going your route for a build with a little more emphasis on the suspension for a road race track build.

ranger693

Great thread and can' wait to see the finished product. You have also motivated me to get going on my 1978 280z. Great job!!

ls1 280zx

Looks awesome so far.

AFischer

Hey guys, been a while since I've been able to get to shop.

Picked up Contano S14 5 lug hubs


Borrowed a buddies tube bender and bought a Princess Auto tube notcher. This is the biggest POS I've seen but it was cheap and I needed something asap. The blue bushing housing had a ton of play to the shaft and the hole saw adapter had huge runout so I made a new shaft assembly out of some spare bearings and milled a plate with a step to align them. Popped a 3/8" hex socket into the end and pinned it so it will never spin so I can adapt to any drill and the wobble of the drill will be taken up by this adapter.



Bent up some scrap pieces of tube to get angles right without using the good DOM



Bent up full A-pillar bars



Halo bar notched nicely.





Front view of today's work


Next will be dash bar and halo to main hoop. Should I go straight back or X for the roof bars?

Pyro - my solid model is pretty specific to my setup but I could send it if you think it would help you..