fox12303

iTrader: (7)

Spectra verified that I have the updated tank by the label info on top of the tank. I verified it by looking inside and you can clearly see a second baffle towards the drivers side that divides the original baffle effectively making it smaller to help keep fuel surrounding the pump pickup. It has notches cut out in the bottom of it to allow fuel to enter.

They did however send me a new sending unit/pump assembly because they state they updated it internally due to some premature failures. That being said it would still be worth anyone who has one of these tanks or who is thinking about buying one to verify the production numbers before ordering if possible. Or do so once you have it and before you fill it with gas.

I have not had a repeat of the issue and I have read other replys from individuals who have the updated tank of no problems. I will give mine a few tests next time I have it around a 1/4 tank and reply back with any issues. I hope to have good luck with it as it is the best value on the market to date. It is an excellent looking piece and of OE quality.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

great write up-i did a 69 chevelle a while back, it didnt have air, i took sort of the easy way out on a couple things, using the CTS oil pan, Hooker headers and adapters (i think since Hooker is using a diff adapter, diff holes)
i used the vette front acces dr, since i wanted to use the vette style setup from Procharger
my new project is a 68 chevelle wagon and LS engine (i have a 6.0 left over)
big chal. is the fuel tank, their non ex for wagons, mine is ok but would like another one to alter
i also have AC, wanted to use the comp in the vette location, some frame work might need doing, and i need to adress the airbox like you did-i am planning on another forced ind, but want to leave the bat up front, so i'll have to see how that goes
did you use a throttle body inj? i assume so

bmf5150

Nice project!

fox12303

iTrader: (7)

Forcd ind, I used 30226 kit from FAST EZ-efi. It is a throttle body system and is not too complicated a setup to wire. I haven't had a chance to write and post pictures about it. The hardest part was integrating the Edelbrock, FAST and original wiring harnesses together to make them look good. A few complications but were easy to resolve and I will give those details as well.

I will also post pictures of the A/C hookups. I made custom hoses and moved the drier so that I would have a good location to mount the tranny cooler. I didn't document the tranny buildup last year and wish that I had. I've had to play with the governor and 3-4 shift spring to get timing and spacing of shifts right. 1-2 and 2-3 shifts seem to early even with a Corvette governor but acceptable. TV setup is dead on which is very critical with an 700R4 tranny.

I've been driving this for about a month now and it has good all round performance. Has a slight hesitation off idle until completely warm but it runs great once warm. Cold idle is a little erratic at times, you can hear the IAC searching for the right setting.

I am headed in the direction of an LS1 with 4l60e tranny for this coming winters project. I prefer the drivability of my 2000 Sierra and think the only way to achieve the same in my Chevelle is to go this route. I will however use my same intake/throttlebody setup converted to port injection. Anyone know of a shop which can weld bungs onto an intake for a reasonable price? I'll buy an air only 4bbl throttle body too. I prefer the old school look.

Thanks again for the positive comments.

fox12303

iTrader: (7)

I'm selling this engine tranny combination if anyone is interested. I know there is a sale thread but it does not appear to get much interest. I hope I am not affending anyone by placing this here. Thank you.

GM LS 5.3L HO with LS1 heads and 700R4 transmission. Includes FAST EZ-EFI fuel injection. Engine and tranny have 2000 miles on them and were both completely rebuilt. I am building an LS1/LS3 with OE fuel injection to replace this, reason for selling. I have over $5000 in this combination.

Engine is a truck block with 10k miles prior to rebuilding. It is standard bore with new GM flat top hypereutectic pistons and rings. Rotating assembly has been balanced and weight matched. New LS6 rods were used and Z06 roller camshaft(551/551 lift). Ported oil pump. Heads are LS1 with new valve seals and valve job. Finished with and Edelbrock dual plane intake and ignition controller(air cleaner is not included). Exhaust manifolds/headers not included. It will include a truck oil pan/pick up, you may need to replace the pan depending on your application. The engine is not blue printed but I have all my notes and clearances from the build.

Tranny is a rebuilt 700R4 out of a full sized Chevy Caprice. Has all new bushings/bearings, new sun shell and stator, new seals, hardened pump vanes, TransGo valve body shift reprogrammer, Corvette governor, oversized boost valves and 2200 stall convertor. TV cable properly calibrated and long TV spring for carbretor applications. I don't have any pictures of the tranny rebuild but I do have all my notes.

FAST EZ-EFI requires 43psi fuel pressure and return line. The fuel injection and ignition harnesses have been integrated together and will have clearly marked connections. Will include relays for fuel pump and ignition. Only a few electrical connections to have this running. Tach output from ignition box. Has fan output for electric fans as well as A/C input.

The accessory drive setup is not included. I am asking $3500 for the engine, transmission, fuel injection and ignition system. PM me for more information. I am located near Albany, NY. Thank you.

1970

Question is about your stall converter choice.
My build is a 1970 Chevelle (307/TH350, 2.73 rear gear, factory A/C), my power train is a 2004 Buick Rainier aluminum LM4 5.3L with Chevy van 4l60e tranny (everything stock, freshened and will leave it so)

Enjoyed reading this build thread of yours and printed a copy for use "on site". Of course I have concerns about acc brackets, but for this step my decision is the torque converter. If the stock stall is 1800 and you used a 2200 stall, would you use a 2200 stall if you were building your car again?

What factors shall I consider before I buy one?

I took a non-A/C pickup on Power Tour this year. Next year: Chevelle with A/C....

TURBOPOWERED68

thank you for the great write up.
i am sure it help me with my build of my 1968 Chevelle in the coming months.

fox12303

iTrader: (7)

There is not much differance between the 1800 and 2200 stall converters, IMO. If you are certain your converter is good to reuse I wouldn't change it. I needed a new one at the time of my build so I went with something a little better than stock. It likely would come down to your engines output as its torque output really determines the final stall. I would go the same route if I did it agiain, $250 for a rebuilt converter is peace of mind to me.

Thanks for reading my swap. I will likely update soon as I have swapped the oil pan for a Street & Performance modified F-body pan and finished up the A/C. More pictures coming too. Good luck with your swap and thanks for the nice comments. PM me if you have any other questions.

turbopowered68 -- thank you for the compliment.

fox12303

iTrader: (7)

Installed a Street & Performance oil pan. No more ground clearance or steering issues. Plenty of clearance everywhere at the crossmember. I could probably remove the 1/4" spacers I installed between the frame and engine brackets during the initial install. I have over 1&1/2 turns of the steering in both directions, though some weld buildup remains at the steering stops. Attached photos to show clearance.





Overall this pan is a much better if not a perfect fit for an A-body LS swap. Check out the photos and keep in mind that my engine is sitting in the stock location with no setback. If using this pan I suggest mocking it up on the engine first before installing. Fortunately I had another LS1 on an engine stand to do this. I used a truck windage tray but had to cut it back the no.2 main cap and trim the right angle all along the edge. Minor tweeking of the pickup tube too. Minor warping in pan from the welding but no sealing issues, I do use a gasket adhesive on both sides of gasket as standard practice. I'd use this pan again.

I also finished the A/C conversion last month. Removed the POA valve and installed a 134a retrofit clutch cycling swich from Old Air Products. The hoses I custom made from a Vintage Air kit and the compressor fittings are from Vintage Air. Used the 80% rule to calculate the amount of refrigerant needed even though there is a site glass on the drier. The condensor is a stock replacement and I relocated the drier to the drivers side to make room for a tranny cooler.

fox12303

iTrader: (7)

Spectra fuel pump burned out on the way to Holley LS Fest 2012. Car sputtered once so I pulled into a rest area to check things out. Noticed the fuel pressure was 20psi. Once I shut off the car it would not restart. I could barely hear the pump running. This happened 10 minutes after a dump truck had a tire blow and a large chunk went through my grill. So I never made it to LS Fest.

Killer66

iTrader: (4)

I'm interested in the serpintine setup? How is it going?
thanks in advance.

likes cars

Bummer about the LS fest trip.

Your accy drive is looking really nice. I would buy one.
What do you think of the fast efi? Would you buy it again or go carb?

fox12303

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the great comments. I build the drives to order so if you you are willing to wait a few weeks to a month I can build one for you. PM me and I will send you contact information.

As far as the FAST efi goes, i'm on the fence at this point. I will say that for an everyday driver, the efi is perfect. But, for all out performance i'd stick with a carb. Saying that, i'm currnently building an LS1 and 4L65e for this winters project. Converting the motor to 58x/4x for use with LS3 GM Performance engine controller and connect & cruise tranny controller.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

That sucks about the gas tank, my piece of **** spectra tank pump gave out when I took my car to the tuner. Really crappy product.

likes cars

"Get a Corvette water neck and thermostat. It rotates the neck down a little similar to a SB water pump. A truck lower hose fits almost perfectly with only minor trimming. Since the LS pump puts the heater hose connections on the passenger side they hook up easy. I used a 69 Chevelle water valve since I have A/C and mounted it in the stock location on the fender well."
I like the idea of canting the therm down.
What year corvette therm neck? I looked at a few on Rock Auto, the pictures all look like my truck therm housing. Maybe stock pics, what year did you use?

likes cars

I found it on Rock Auto. I was looking at 99-2003 previously.
Yours looks something like:
2006 Corvette, but it is listed as a "water pump housing". The thermostat and gasket is included. It aims down a little more like your picture and costs $25.79. AC Delco Part #1511057

fox12303

iTrader: (7)

The waterneck/thermostat housing is from an LS3 2010 Camaro.

LS BRAVADA

iTrader: (4)

[QUOTE=fox12303;16242884]



Finally, a good looking accessory system.

fox12303

iTrader: (7)

Couple updates to issues I've tried to sort out.

Spectra Gas tank. Replaced the second Spectra pump with a Delphi unit and so far no issues. Pressure regulators: do not use a sealed liquid gas. As under hood temperature raises it affects the gauge pressure since the atmospheric pressure differential changes. My pressure would fluctuate anywhere from 6.5psi cold to 1psi hot. Aeromotive has a tech bulletin: http://aeromotiveinc.com/tech-help/f...ed-regulators/. I haven't noticed the fuel slosh/starvation issue but I don't let the tank go below 1/4 anyway.

Driveline vibration. I've read a lot about vibrations after LS swaps. Everyone seems to come done to the same conclusion: you need to raise the tranny. Why? My guess is the swap places the engine centerline higher than is was prior to the swap. And to add to matters most people lower their car without checking or compensating for the change in pinion angle.

My car had a vibration at around 75-80mph. After checking my driveline I discovered both of the above issues. I raised my tranny 3/8" and installed adjustable rear control arms. This allowed me to set proper angles and eliminated my vibration.

I am going to build custom engine mounts so that I can lower the engine more allowing me to remove the 3/8" at the tranny as it is very close to the floor at the moment. I will have to redrill the crossmember and install/remove/install the engine to build them properly. Pictures when they are done.

prostreett

Could you please tell me how you installed the torque converter bolts through the flex plate. It seems the oil pan is low on my project and I can not get the bolts in thanks