70 Chevelle LQ4/T56 Build
11-22-2012, 04:25 PM
#21
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Looks good, nice work! At the rate your moving, you should have this project finished soon.
12-02-2012, 04:33 PM
#22
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
12-12-2012, 08:03 PM
#23
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wiring harness well i got my nose back apart, primed, and back together and started on my wiring harness. not much ambition after work today so i decided to post on here what i have so far.
this is what i started with...
if that wasnt enough to discourage a person from doing this swap i dont think there is anything that can! lol
everything unplugged, untangled, and labeled. that looks a lot less scary.
after getting the engine in the car i plugged everything back in and started removing the wire loom. originally i was planning on just buying a new harness. then i found out how expensive they were. so after a few hours of research on this awesome forum and LT1swap.com i decided i was going to jump in with both feet and convert it to standalone and remove all the b.s. in the harness that i wasnt using anymore.
after all the wire loom was off i spread the harness out on the garage floor and started untangleing. after a couple hours on the floor i decided to hang it from the garage track
from there the garage got too cold and the concrete floor got too hard so i moved to my bedroom. lol
again kinda scary...
and then my bedroom got too small so i moved to the living room... haha mom wasnt too happy about this one!
everything i removed from my harness that wasnt needed
with the nose assembled i started plugging everything in again and rerouting all the wires the way i want.
this is where i left off...
instead of using individual relay holders and a small exposed fuse block with like 4 fuses in it that i couldnt really think of any good way to make it look clean, i got a hold of this
this is what i started with...
if that wasnt enough to discourage a person from doing this swap i dont think there is anything that can! lol
everything unplugged, untangled, and labeled. that looks a lot less scary.
after getting the engine in the car i plugged everything back in and started removing the wire loom. originally i was planning on just buying a new harness. then i found out how expensive they were. so after a few hours of research on this awesome forum and LT1swap.com i decided i was going to jump in with both feet and convert it to standalone and remove all the b.s. in the harness that i wasnt using anymore.
after all the wire loom was off i spread the harness out on the garage floor and started untangleing. after a couple hours on the floor i decided to hang it from the garage track
from there the garage got too cold and the concrete floor got too hard so i moved to my bedroom. lol
again kinda scary...
and then my bedroom got too small so i moved to the living room... haha mom wasnt too happy about this one!
everything i removed from my harness that wasnt needed
with the nose assembled i started plugging everything in again and rerouting all the wires the way i want.
this is where i left off...
instead of using individual relay holders and a small exposed fuse block with like 4 fuses in it that i couldnt really think of any good way to make it look clean, i got a hold of this
12-12-2012, 08:48 PM
#25
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Amarillo, TX
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great thread. I am also doing a ground up rebuild and I wish I could work as fast as you! Is that a hydroboost brake booster on your car? I am trying to figure out which vehicles came with hydroboosts so I can raid one at a boneyard.
When I bought my motor it came with a modified harness from speartech.....THANK GOD! If I had that wiring job ChevyMan had I would have lost my mind.
When I bought my motor it came with a modified harness from speartech.....THANK GOD! If I had that wiring job ChevyMan had I would have lost my mind.
12-13-2012, 06:17 AM
#26
TECH Fanatic
The wiring is the most intimidating part of the swap. After I got going it only took me a week of evenings to get it all sorted and loomed. I plan to go back ad reroute a few things to clean up some excess and make thing fit better. the time is in striping out the non essential items and soldering and heat shrinking at the fuse/relay panel.
12-13-2012, 05:02 PM
#27
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The wiring is the most intimidating part of the swap. After I got going it only took me a week of evenings to get it all sorted and loomed. I plan to go back ad reroute a few things to clean up some excess and make thing fit better. the time is in striping out the non essential items and soldering and heat shrinking at the fuse/relay panel.
12-14-2012, 12:03 AM
#29
On The Tree
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Weare, NH
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I feel you on the wiring. I just re-wired my TPI C10's engine harness wire by wire, and am now finishing up my gf's LQ4 Camaro, which was a complete chassis harness. About done with wires for a while!
BTW great work on the car, and g-body clutch linkage is hard to come by, thats a good friend to just hand you that stuff
BTW great work on the car, and g-body clutch linkage is hard to come by, thats a good friend to just hand you that stuff
12-14-2012, 07:08 AM
#30
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
im trying to remember off the top of my head without looking at pictures. im pretty sure the push rod going threw the firewall lined up with the top set of holes and the bottom set i either needed to oblong a tad or drill a new set of holes. the part the sticks through the firewall is just a little larger than the opening but its tapered so once i got the 4 bolts in i was able to just draw the booster in to the firewall a little at a time and get the hole to spread. the booster needed to be spaced out away from the firewall about a 1/2 i think. so what i did was make a template of the mounting surface and cut out 2 spacers plug weld them together and then bolted it in between. i have pictures of it all i was going to wait to put up untill i got all the lines run. i'll try and get them up when i get home tonight for you
haha yea def! after this im not going to want to look at another wire for a long time!
and thanks! yea he is a good freind. hes been around cars with me all our lives. he picked up a malibu wagon with a 327 and a 4 speed from the factory. hes putting a 383 stroker with a th350 so the linkage was no use to him. we help eachother out where ever we can.
I feel you on the wiring. I just re-wired my TPI C10's engine harness wire by wire, and am now finishing up my gf's LQ4 Camaro, which was a complete chassis harness. About done with wires for a while!
BTW great work on the car, and g-body clutch linkage is hard to come by, thats a good friend to just hand you that stuff
BTW great work on the car, and g-body clutch linkage is hard to come by, thats a good friend to just hand you that stuff
and thanks! yea he is a good freind. hes been around cars with me all our lives. he picked up a malibu wagon with a 327 and a 4 speed from the factory. hes putting a 383 stroker with a th350 so the linkage was no use to him. we help eachother out where ever we can.
12-14-2012, 09:46 PM
#33
TECH Fanatic
You have an awsome build, the only thing I was concerned about was how you welded the sump to the tank. The sump should have come with a paper template. Only four 1" holes should have been drilled into the tank before the sump was welded on. The holes allow adiquate fuel to flow into the sump but also create the perfect baffling to keep the injection from sucking air on hard cornering.
12-16-2012, 03:34 PM
#34
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so this is what i have so far... i thought i had a few more pictures than i do.
removed from the van, removed van master cylinder and installed chevelle master cylinder. that was a direct bolt on.
i had to oblong the top 2 holes in the mounting surface of the booster to match the holes in the fire wall. after i figured out the distance way from the firewall it needed to be i made my spacer
and here is it done bolted on.
i was able to get all earls an fittings to run my lines in the braided stainless.
once the wiring is all done and secured ill run all my lines and post some more pictures. i picked up a polished aluminum power steering resevior im going to mount to the rad support that looks really clean too.
that fuse/relay box is actually out of a boat. its out of a 2007 or newer nautique with a PCM (pleasure craft marine) engine. i work for a nautique dealer and was able to get a fuse box off a junk harness from the factory. PCM uses all vortecs and wires them very similar to how im wiring my car.
thanks. yea after i got the sump welded in the paper template fell out of the bottom of the box the sump came in. its too late now. like i said ill get the car on the road with this tank and if i end up having a problem with it ill deal with it then.
removed from the van, removed van master cylinder and installed chevelle master cylinder. that was a direct bolt on.
i had to oblong the top 2 holes in the mounting surface of the booster to match the holes in the fire wall. after i figured out the distance way from the firewall it needed to be i made my spacer
and here is it done bolted on.
i was able to get all earls an fittings to run my lines in the braided stainless.
once the wiring is all done and secured ill run all my lines and post some more pictures. i picked up a polished aluminum power steering resevior im going to mount to the rad support that looks really clean too.
that fuse/relay box is actually out of a boat. its out of a 2007 or newer nautique with a PCM (pleasure craft marine) engine. i work for a nautique dealer and was able to get a fuse box off a junk harness from the factory. PCM uses all vortecs and wires them very similar to how im wiring my car.
You have an awsome build, the only thing I was concerned about was how you welded the sump to the tank. The sump should have come with a paper template. Only four 1" holes should have been drilled into the tank before the sump was welded on. The holes allow adiquate fuel to flow into the sump but also create the perfect baffling to keep the injection from sucking air on hard cornering.
12-17-2012, 06:48 AM
#35
TECH Fanatic
Sorry for bringing it up agin, I missed the post where that was covered, lol
12-17-2012, 09:35 AM
#36
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
lol dont worry about it. i prob have 200 dollars in the whole tank set up so if i have to redo it down the road its not all that big of a deal. it just sucks because the way i did it i was able to cut slits on the end of the hole in the tank and was able to slide the flange of the sump to the inside of the tank which made for a nice clean corner weld. if i were to just do the 6 hole is the bottom it wont come out as nice. im wondering about pulling the tank back down and cutting an opening it the top where you wont see anyway. i still have the peice i cut out of the tank that i could pop those 6 holes in and just plug weld from the inside right over top of the sump. then weld up the top of the tank and undercoat again. i dont know we'll see. for now im not worrying about it.
12-17-2012, 03:21 PM
#37
Launching!
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: TX 76511
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
lol dont worry about it. i prob have 200 dollars in the whole tank set up so if i have to redo it down the road its not all that big of a deal. it just sucks because the way i did it i was able to cut slits on the end of the hole in the tank and was able to slide the flange of the sump to the inside of the tank which made for a nice clean corner weld. if i were to just do the 6 hole is the bottom it wont come out as nice. im wondering about pulling the tank back down and cutting an opening it the top where you wont see anyway. i still have the peice i cut out of the tank that i could pop those 6 holes in and just plug weld from the inside right over top of the sump. then weld up the top of the tank and undercoat again. i dont know we'll see. for now im not worrying about it.
12-17-2012, 09:07 PM
#39
TECH Fanatic
lol dont worry about it. i prob have 200 dollars in the whole tank set up so if i have to redo it down the road its not all that big of a deal. it just sucks because the way i did it i was able to cut slits on the end of the hole in the tank and was able to slide the flange of the sump to the inside of the tank which made for a nice clean corner weld. if i were to just do the 6 hole is the bottom it wont come out as nice. im wondering about pulling the tank back down and cutting an opening it the top where you wont see anyway. i still have the peice i cut out of the tank that i could pop those 6 holes in and just plug weld from the inside right over top of the sump. then weld up the top of the tank and undercoat again. i dont know we'll see. for now im not worrying about it.
