LS1/T56 into a 68 Camaro
12-24-2013, 12:50 PM
#82
Merry Christmas Eve to all. I finished my mock up and I have everything pulled back apart to get the subframe powdercoated. I will make arrangements to have it done right after Christmas, Along with the subframe, I am going to have my subframe connectors and my AC compressor brackets done at the same time. The last thing I did before disassembly was cut the new hole in the floor for the shifter. I will weld a patch over the old hole soon.
12-31-2013, 06:44 PM
#83
Happy New Years to you and yours!
Instead of welding the tunnel and making it permanent. You might consider this:
Here is what I did to cover the old shifter hole and also help seal out any unwanted noise around the new shifter. I used a piece of cardboard and made a template, transferred it t some sheet metal, and screwed it down. I then covered it with a sound deadener. It works great!
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Instead of welding the tunnel and making it permanent. You might consider this:
Here is what I did to cover the old shifter hole and also help seal out any unwanted noise around the new shifter. I used a piece of cardboard and made a template, transferred it t some sheet metal, and screwed it down. I then covered it with a sound deadener. It works great!
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08-04-2014, 07:43 AM
#84
Wow long time with no posts. Working on a bathroom remodel all winter and then yard work, other house work, motorhome prep, etc. Well I have actually made some progress on the car lately. I got the vintage air control unit mounted under the dash, I have modified the heater controls to work with the vintage air, started the wiring harness install. Most importantly, I got the subframe powdercoated and reinstalled the suspension and brake lines. I am ALMOST ready to start tearing into the engine and trans and finally get this build moving.
08-04-2014, 08:45 PM
#85
Late last week, I finally got the steering U-joint adapter I needed and finished mocking up the steering shaft. I had to grind part of the head off the one U-joint where it was hitting the headers which I scratched up pretty good. I think this set-up was meant for Borgeson U-joints and not the Unisteer which seem to be bigger.
08-05-2014, 11:34 AM
#86
I am attaching the pictures as thumbnails, so I am confused why you can't see them. I am using the Art Morrison headers. They look and fit great except for one area on the passenger side where I had to grind on the lower control arm mount. It wasn't hard contact, but enough where I wanted to gain some clearance.
08-05-2014, 09:19 PM
#87
I am attaching the pictures as thumbnails, so I am confused why you can't see them. I am using the Art Morrison headers. They look and fit great except for one area on the passenger side where I had to grind on the lower control arm mount. It wasn't hard contact, but enough where I wanted to gain some clearance.
08-11-2014, 11:50 AM
#88
Yes they are pricey, but they are optimized for the sub, so I bit the bullet.
Made a lot of progress this weekend. The wiring harness from the firewall back is now done and the Vintage Air is done from the firewall back. I reassembled the dash except for the glove box and temporarily hooked up a battery to validate all of the wiring and everything worked as designed. I have to comment that all the ducts required for the Vintage Air are like trying to stuff 10 lbs of sh$t in a 5 pound bag. I don't know how I got it all packaged, but it is in there.
Almost ready to tear into the engine...finally.
Made a lot of progress this weekend. The wiring harness from the firewall back is now done and the Vintage Air is done from the firewall back. I reassembled the dash except for the glove box and temporarily hooked up a battery to validate all of the wiring and everything worked as designed. I have to comment that all the ducts required for the Vintage Air are like trying to stuff 10 lbs of sh$t in a 5 pound bag. I don't know how I got it all packaged, but it is in there.
Almost ready to tear into the engine...finally.
08-15-2014, 07:45 AM
#89
Finally getting to the fun part of this build. Dropped almost $2G's yesterday buying parts. I previously bought the cylinder heads which are:
Warhawk Cylinder heads 025150-3 235CC intake ports, 2.08 x 1.60 valves, 64 CC chambers, 1.550” dual springs 200lbs on the seat @ 1.950”, 480 lbs at 1.200”, 0.700 max lift
To go with that, I ordered the Comp Cams LSR Cathedral Port 54-457-11 with 223/231 @ .050, .610"/.617" lift with a 112LSA. It has a 1700-6800 RPM powerband and should give me 15" vacuum at 900 RPM idle.
I also ordered the Comp cams rocker arm trunnion upgrade and the pushrod length checker.
From GM parts direct I ordered the LS-7 Clutch Kit with throwout bearing and pilot bearing, C5 brake pads, harmonic balancer bolt, coolant pipe for the LS-6 intake I previously bought, LS-2 Timing chain and sprockets, water pump seals, head gasket kit with head bolts, spark plugs, rear main seal and front main seal. I also took the oppurtunity to buy a Lisle torque angle gauge for torquing the head bolts.
I hope to separate the engine from the trans this weekend and pull the tailshaft off the T56 to send it to the guy that will be adding my mechanical speedo drive. More pictures to come once I do all that.
Warhawk Cylinder heads 025150-3 235CC intake ports, 2.08 x 1.60 valves, 64 CC chambers, 1.550” dual springs 200lbs on the seat @ 1.950”, 480 lbs at 1.200”, 0.700 max lift
To go with that, I ordered the Comp Cams LSR Cathedral Port 54-457-11 with 223/231 @ .050, .610"/.617" lift with a 112LSA. It has a 1700-6800 RPM powerband and should give me 15" vacuum at 900 RPM idle.
I also ordered the Comp cams rocker arm trunnion upgrade and the pushrod length checker.
From GM parts direct I ordered the LS-7 Clutch Kit with throwout bearing and pilot bearing, C5 brake pads, harmonic balancer bolt, coolant pipe for the LS-6 intake I previously bought, LS-2 Timing chain and sprockets, water pump seals, head gasket kit with head bolts, spark plugs, rear main seal and front main seal. I also took the oppurtunity to buy a Lisle torque angle gauge for torquing the head bolts.
I hope to separate the engine from the trans this weekend and pull the tailshaft off the T56 to send it to the guy that will be adding my mechanical speedo drive. More pictures to come once I do all that.
08-15-2014, 08:42 AM
#90
Just a suggestion, Redline gauge works in CA will convert your stock speedometer to electronic using a VDO movement. My 69 speedometer got converted to electronic and refaced to 160 MPH for less than $250. That seemed a more elegant solution for my t56 swap.
08-16-2014, 07:05 AM
#91
I am glad to see you are back! You are making some serious progression with the Camaro! I love that sub, sure does make the swap an easier task. Out of the 50+ threads I am subscribed to, you are the only one making progress at this time. My thread has been dead for quite some time. Keep us up to date as we are anxiously waiting to see someone get their car on the road.
08-19-2014, 03:09 PM
#92
Made some more progress over the weekend and Monday. Separated the engine from the trans. Removed the extension housing so it can be shipped for the mechanical speedometer mod and disassembled the engine basically down to a short block. Spent about $800 more dollars today on specific tools and a few more gaskets. I also decided to go with new GM high performance lifters and a new GM high volume oil pump. Even with only 60,000 miles, I can't see tearing the engine down this far and not replacing those items.
Next up is to chase the head bolt threads with the special M11X2.0 extra long thread chaser that I bought today and general clean up of parts.
Next up is to chase the head bolt threads with the special M11X2.0 extra long thread chaser that I bought today and general clean up of parts.
08-19-2014, 03:28 PM
#93
TECH Apprentice
Looking good! Keep up the work and you will be on the road soon. I also removed my tailhouse and sent it to a member for the mechanical speedo mod. I have not used it yet but I'm hoping that it will all be good. Just make sure you get the correct size c-clip when putting the speedo gear on, the one sent with my tailhouse shaft was too loose for my liking. A trip to HD solved that one. Good luck with the build...
08-20-2014, 06:31 AM
#95
Thanks for the tips guys. And now for something completely different. On Sunday I stopped over my buddies house just as he was test fitting his 5.3L engine into a old Jeep. He is keeping it completely stock, but using a PSI harness and some adapter kit made for the Jeeps. We are in a race to see who fires first.
08-22-2014, 01:39 PM
#96
Parts are coming in now, Christmas in August. I have been cleaning some of the parts, front cover, valve covers and oil pan. I can't decide if I want to leave it natural aluminum or paint the engine with Aluma blast from Eastwood. What kind of success have you all had with painting the engine? does it hold up?
08-30-2014, 09:14 AM
#98
I also temporarily installed the cam and the old timing chain so I can check my piston to valve clearance and determine my pushrod length. I cleaned up the new heads and temporarily install them next with the checking springs installed. Caution: the pictures in this post are automotive ****.
Last edited by Aston Tibs; 08-30-2014 at 09:19 AM.
08-31-2014, 09:00 AM
#99
The Warhawks look great but will perform even better. The LS1 you are putting together will be a screamer! What kind of power are you aiming for?
I bet the UPS/FedEx guys are like "WTF is this guy building?" One day they will see the black marks leaving the driveway and they will know their efforts were well worth it.
I bet the UPS/FedEx guys are like "WTF is this guy building?" One day they will see the black marks leaving the driveway and they will know their efforts were well worth it.
08-31-2014, 01:43 PM
#100
Thanks Tony, I am aiming for 500HP at the crank. I have no scientific reason for that, it's just my goal. Anyway, I hit a snag today. The Warhawks have massive 1.550" double springs and the LS spring removal tool I bought is designed for the beehive springs. I ordered a Comp Cams spring removal tool from Jegs that doesn't have to fit between the springs. Hopefully that will work. Well I guess I will have to work on something else like the fuel pressure gauge or the brakes until I get the tool in.