Nerd Rods, 55-59 Truck Frame Project 1956, C4 suspension, 5.3L Auto, Kit Frame Design
#81
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I've creeped your website and old projects since i started my hotrod back in 2010 or so. You can see i borrowed the design from the c4 rear section your shop did on the 32 roadster. Although im using the leaf-spring still[rides too high a stiff still]
Im curious what length front coil-overs your using? and spring rate as well. Im about to redo my front end, and it seems my coils may be too long and springs too stiff.
Edit: here is my build thread btw[not to thread jack or anything] More-so a compliment through imitation!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ker-build.html
Im curious what length front coil-overs your using? and spring rate as well. Im about to redo my front end, and it seems my coils may be too long and springs too stiff.
Edit: here is my build thread btw[not to thread jack or anything] More-so a compliment through imitation!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ker-build.html
Some people will argue that you don't need the doubles but with over 100 frames out my doors I would contest that any day. They are only about 50.00 more expensive each and in the grand scheme of the whole car 200 bucks to decide if your able to dial in your ride and handling qualities is nothing.
Later
-Russell
#82
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Very true with the rates and shock angle, completely forgot about that. Either way i need to go back into working on the front end and remaking the upper and lower shock mounts. I don't like what i did a few years ago.
#83
Launching!
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And your going to love the roadster we're working on. C5/6 suspension, 5.3L, turbo, full containment cage, 315 up front and 345 our back. Its going to be fun. I'll start a build thread on it soon. I'll be selling the front and rear cradles as well once its running and I'm happy with it.
#84
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So this is happening. I needed to break up with my camera for a while to focus on actually building parts and tech supporting customers.
Click for full size
Basically in the down time since I last posted I've got 2 lasers up and running now, sold 8 frames in various stages, delivered 5 of them, blew the motor up in my personal car, fixed that, one minion moved, got 2 new minions, been training them, had to change banks (if your a small business you know what kind of a royal pain this is) and my local laser shop has been teaching me to program his laser so I can save a few bucks and I can quote my own projects now. Cross that with a girlfriend that lives 240 miles away and its fun fun fun and busy busy busy on all fronts. I should have more photos up within the week. Their on my computer and need to be sorted. Also waiting on other parts.
Later
-Russell
Click for full size
Basically in the down time since I last posted I've got 2 lasers up and running now, sold 8 frames in various stages, delivered 5 of them, blew the motor up in my personal car, fixed that, one minion moved, got 2 new minions, been training them, had to change banks (if your a small business you know what kind of a royal pain this is) and my local laser shop has been teaching me to program his laser so I can save a few bucks and I can quote my own projects now. Cross that with a girlfriend that lives 240 miles away and its fun fun fun and busy busy busy on all fronts. I should have more photos up within the week. Their on my computer and need to be sorted. Also waiting on other parts.
Later
-Russell
#86
Russell,
Outstanding work as always. Any link to that new thread you mentioned earlier?
thanks,
Jim
Outstanding work as always. Any link to that new thread you mentioned earlier?
thanks,
Jim
#88
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Thanks again
-Russell
#89
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Ah man, it was so cold today that no one came into the shop all day, It was AWESOME!!!
And thanks to the quite I manged to get the gas tank about 90% worked out. I'll need to build one real quick and make sure the lower gas filler hole will let the tank fill without backing up. It should work with the vent at the top to bleed off the air but I want to make sure. The tank is only 18.5 Gallons but it under the bed and it will use the stock filler neck. I've never liked the rear bed mounting solutions with the filler in the bed but I'm also 6'2" and more room in the CAB is a must for me. For more fuel I'll just add extra tank in the bed and just let it over flow down into the bottom tank and move the filler up higher.
Later
-Russell
And thanks to the quite I manged to get the gas tank about 90% worked out. I'll need to build one real quick and make sure the lower gas filler hole will let the tank fill without backing up. It should work with the vent at the top to bleed off the air but I want to make sure. The tank is only 18.5 Gallons but it under the bed and it will use the stock filler neck. I've never liked the rear bed mounting solutions with the filler in the bed but I'm also 6'2" and more room in the CAB is a must for me. For more fuel I'll just add extra tank in the bed and just let it over flow down into the bottom tank and move the filler up higher.
Later
-Russell
#92
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The truly best design involves a plate with lines perfectly parallel to the metal tube then welded top and bottom but not on the front and back as that would create more heat stressing on the metal. But with that kind of plate everyone who can see it always just assumes you forgot to weld it and simply assumes that they are smarter than you despite the fact that you do this for a living. Ask me how I know.......... So this is the next best solution and I don't have to answer and explain it every 5 minutes at a show or online.
Thanks for the educated question. I actually appreciate good conversation about design and structure.
-Russell
#94
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Gas tanks has been finalized and send to the laser for the first one. I still need to test my design to make sure it won't slow flow due to the height of the filler inlet. The Vent should be large enough to compensate.
Also finally found a CNC tubing bender that isn't insane about his prices. So I drew up the back half of the exhaust and send that and the program off to bend them this morning. This is my first jump into CNC bending so here's hoping its painless. If it is I'm going to be able to cut an easy 200-250 bucks off the cost of the exhaust systems for the Nerd Rods Frames.
The turquoises parts on the frame are revised from the first frames we built and sold thanks to this project and some feedback from guys who wanted to bit the bullet even though I've not gotten as far as I would have liked on this project yet. Nothing major, just subtle things, increasing or decreasing tolerances of different parts or keys. Adding little extensions and there was one slot I forgot to put into a rail but that's all taken care of now.
Later
-Russell
#95
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More updates, The exhaust front part is too complex to have 1 piece bent. Some of the bends are too close together and the motors are mounting is different frame to frame so that bit need a little custom attention to make fit exactly. So we got this part mocked up and the braided brake lines finally showed up. I have to order custom lines to have an AN-3 on one end and the 10mm on the other AND have a DOT stamp on the lines. Kore 3 does good work with quality American parts so I don't mind the short wait. These are getting on and worked out as well. The rear half exhaust has been XYZ'd and has been ordered.
Now for the real reason most of you are here, pretty pictures!!!!
Later
-Russell
Now for the real reason most of you are here, pretty pictures!!!!
Later
-Russell
#96
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Alright! CNC Bent exhaust back half was a success! Unfortunately its not but a few buck cheaper after shipping but its still WAY nicer and there might be some discounts in the future when I start working in some kind of volume.
Gas tank is also completely welded. I just need to install the pump and sending unit to finish it up and have the hold down brackets finished up then it will be ready for powder coating. Once we finish the heat shields for the mufflers then it will be ready for final install.
One thing is for certain, I need my own sheetmetal brake and soon. The brake I've been using isn't well cared for and I end up setting it up each time but on this tank the setup was a bit off because I didn't bring my mic's with me and it shows if you know what to look for. That's why I sanded off a good chunk of the welds and smoothed them out.
I'm also making a drive shaft protection that will be sold with the tank as well so if a U-Joint breaks the drive shaft will be held in with steel not banging into your aluminum fuel tank. Although if you think you might rupture a drive shaft then this tank isn't for you and I don't think it will clear a live axle anyway.
But it looks good in the frame!
Later
-Russell
Gas tank is also completely welded. I just need to install the pump and sending unit to finish it up and have the hold down brackets finished up then it will be ready for powder coating. Once we finish the heat shields for the mufflers then it will be ready for final install.
One thing is for certain, I need my own sheetmetal brake and soon. The brake I've been using isn't well cared for and I end up setting it up each time but on this tank the setup was a bit off because I didn't bring my mic's with me and it shows if you know what to look for. That's why I sanded off a good chunk of the welds and smoothed them out.
I'm also making a drive shaft protection that will be sold with the tank as well so if a U-Joint breaks the drive shaft will be held in with steel not banging into your aluminum fuel tank. Although if you think you might rupture a drive shaft then this tank isn't for you and I don't think it will clear a live axle anyway.
But it looks good in the frame!
Later
-Russell
#97
TECH Resident
impressive, as always. I used Viking double adjustable coil-over shocks, recently on my '51 Ford F1 after converting the rear to a triangulated 4 link and doing a heidt's IFS upfront. The founders left QA1 to start Viking. Their products are american made.
I'm really impressed with their products. They also recently released a fully driver adjustable setup that looks excellent. I became a dealer even though my volume would be very limited.
I'm really impressed with their products. They also recently released a fully driver adjustable setup that looks excellent. I became a dealer even though my volume would be very limited.
#98
Launching!
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impressive, as always. I used Viking double adjustable coil-over shocks, recently on my '51 Ford F1 after converting the rear to a triangulated 4 link and doing a heidt's IFS upfront. The founders left QA1 to start Viking. Their products are american made.
I'm really impressed with their products. They also recently released a fully driver adjustable setup that looks excellent. I became a dealer even though my volume would be very limited.
I'm really impressed with their products. They also recently released a fully driver adjustable setup that looks excellent. I became a dealer even though my volume would be very limited.
Later
-Russell
#99
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Update Time!
Logistics, logistics, logistics. Mainly on wheels for George. We finally had Ben @ Hermance Designs do a rending for him to try our several wheels after looking at some very expensive options he landed on the Showwheels and here we are.
We've also been busy with the version 7 TriFive Car frame and lots of carts and other fabrication and handling equipment here in the shop. Its been busy, just doesn't look that way from the outside looking in.
Here's just one of the rolling chassis's that's been pushed out the door since we've been out of touch.
http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128100
And a roadster we've started on recently as well.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...track-toy.html
But the CAM is in as of today, and the wheels should be here shortly. So next the truck can come in and we can lock down the chassis. More photos to come shortly.
Later
-Russell
Logistics, logistics, logistics. Mainly on wheels for George. We finally had Ben @ Hermance Designs do a rending for him to try our several wheels after looking at some very expensive options he landed on the Showwheels and here we are.
We've also been busy with the version 7 TriFive Car frame and lots of carts and other fabrication and handling equipment here in the shop. Its been busy, just doesn't look that way from the outside looking in.
Here's just one of the rolling chassis's that's been pushed out the door since we've been out of touch.
http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128100
And a roadster we've started on recently as well.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...track-toy.html
But the CAM is in as of today, and the wheels should be here shortly. So next the truck can come in and we can lock down the chassis. More photos to come shortly.
Later
-Russell
#100
Russel, thank you for sharing your skills! I have been following your builds in planning my own C4 IRS truck swap, and have a couple questions.
Do you sell a rear toe bar flip kit?
From your pics and drawings, it looks like your engine and pinion angles are parallel with the frame? Is there any advantage to changing the engine (crankshaft) angle to pointing 2-3 degrees down? I'm trying to figure this out before I mount my rear end. Thanks
Do you sell a rear toe bar flip kit?
From your pics and drawings, it looks like your engine and pinion angles are parallel with the frame? Is there any advantage to changing the engine (crankshaft) angle to pointing 2-3 degrees down? I'm trying to figure this out before I mount my rear end. Thanks