72 Nova - The Booboo Project LS/4L65e
01-01-2014, 07:09 PM
#21
Not much of an update really. Just showing what Santa got for me. Eastwood flaring tool it has the 45° set currently. Hopefully I can get the 37° as well in the future. It works very well and very easy to use.
Here is my first attempt as doing a double flare on a 3/16 SS line.
Second attempt was better, but I think I over did it with putting pressure.
This one was on a Cunifer line, and it is mega easy! This is what I will be using to make the brake lines.
Here is my first attempt as doing a double flare on a 3/16 SS line.
Second attempt was better, but I think I over did it with putting pressure.
This one was on a Cunifer line, and it is mega easy! This is what I will be using to make the brake lines.
01-03-2014, 11:31 PM
#22
I got around installing the engine mounts today. The instructions for the Hooker Engine Swap Mounts 12618HKR need to be updated slightly and Toddoky is already informed. We have been working together in the background to make sure it is a smooth install for future buyers.
If you do not have any clamshells the mounts were developed around the Anchor 2292 motor mounts. I came to find out about it after I bought mine, Allstar ALL38114. They are all the same either way as for design, the Anchor are cheaper!
I also bought the Energy Suspension 3-1130R Kit in order to replace the stock rubber mounts for Polyurethane as it comes with the trans mount as well.
The first small hiccup i ran into was that the ES mounts did not fit in the engine mounts. The stock rubber ones fit fine, but I was using the ES 3-1116R
Table grinder working its magic.
Grind a little bit at a time on both sides. Once you are done, then the mount should slide right in.
We move on to the clamshells, according to the instructions, you have to grind the upper corner of the clamshells. I bolted the clamshells down on to the plate with the provided hardware, 8 3/8-16 x 1" bolts and 4 3/8-16 flanged nuts. Use a grinder to file the corner until flush with plate. I did both sides.
Now we move on to installing the plates on the frame. It is pretty straight forward. Place the plates on the frame and make sure to use these holes.
I ran into a small issue with the supplied 3/8-16 x 3/4" flat head bolts. They were to short. So I went to the local hardware store and bought a 1" flat head bolt. These had the correct length but for some reason they would not tighten the plate down. I found the problem to be that the cone of the flat head was protruding past the plate and then resting on the frame. So when fully tighten, the bolt was secure but the plate still had movement. I was lucky enough I had some M10 x 1" bolts, these work perfect. Hooker already knows about this and they are changing their hardware.
I also used one of the 3/8-16 bolts to align the plate with the hole on the frame, then went ahead and tighten the plate down to the frame.
Once both plates were done, you will need a metal 3/8 drill bit to make the hole on the bottom left hole of each plate. Make sure to tape or put something to protect the control arms, as the drill bit will hit them. Later you will see why...
Once both holes are made you are done with the plates.
Time to mount the clamshells onto the plates. Unfortunately this is a 2 person job. Make sure that either you or your company are a Contortionist-Magician-Megavision Man. Because it was not fun. Specially when a stupid nut falls inside the cross member. I was lucky enough to find that runaway nut on the opposite side of where i was working inside the cross memeber.
I used a magnet to place the nuts underneath. Also in the picture below you can see how i scratched the control arm with the drill bit.
Word of advise make sure you pay attention to which clamshells you are mounting before you go all Hulk-Contortionist-Magician-Megavision man. as you can see below, FAiL on my side.
So hopefully you do not do the mistake as I did and have to start all over again. Either way when both mounts are installed you end up with
And a quick test fit of the engine plates.
If you do not have any clamshells the mounts were developed around the Anchor 2292 motor mounts. I came to find out about it after I bought mine, Allstar ALL38114. They are all the same either way as for design, the Anchor are cheaper!
I also bought the Energy Suspension 3-1130R Kit in order to replace the stock rubber mounts for Polyurethane as it comes with the trans mount as well.
The first small hiccup i ran into was that the ES mounts did not fit in the engine mounts. The stock rubber ones fit fine, but I was using the ES 3-1116R
Table grinder working its magic.
Grind a little bit at a time on both sides. Once you are done, then the mount should slide right in.
We move on to the clamshells, according to the instructions, you have to grind the upper corner of the clamshells. I bolted the clamshells down on to the plate with the provided hardware, 8 3/8-16 x 1" bolts and 4 3/8-16 flanged nuts. Use a grinder to file the corner until flush with plate. I did both sides.
Now we move on to installing the plates on the frame. It is pretty straight forward. Place the plates on the frame and make sure to use these holes.
I ran into a small issue with the supplied 3/8-16 x 3/4" flat head bolts. They were to short. So I went to the local hardware store and bought a 1" flat head bolt. These had the correct length but for some reason they would not tighten the plate down. I found the problem to be that the cone of the flat head was protruding past the plate and then resting on the frame. So when fully tighten, the bolt was secure but the plate still had movement. I was lucky enough I had some M10 x 1" bolts, these work perfect. Hooker already knows about this and they are changing their hardware.
I also used one of the 3/8-16 bolts to align the plate with the hole on the frame, then went ahead and tighten the plate down to the frame.
Once both plates were done, you will need a metal 3/8 drill bit to make the hole on the bottom left hole of each plate. Make sure to tape or put something to protect the control arms, as the drill bit will hit them. Later you will see why...
Once both holes are made you are done with the plates.
Time to mount the clamshells onto the plates. Unfortunately this is a 2 person job. Make sure that either you or your company are a Contortionist-Magician-Megavision Man. Because it was not fun. Specially when a stupid nut falls inside the cross member. I was lucky enough to find that runaway nut on the opposite side of where i was working inside the cross memeber.
I used a magnet to place the nuts underneath. Also in the picture below you can see how i scratched the control arm with the drill bit.
Word of advise make sure you pay attention to which clamshells you are mounting before you go all Hulk-Contortionist-Magician-Megavision man. as you can see below, FAiL on my side.
So hopefully you do not do the mistake as I did and have to start all over again. Either way when both mounts are installed you end up with
And a quick test fit of the engine plates.
Last edited by Sebtarta; 01-03-2014 at 11:40 PM.
01-04-2014, 12:18 AM
#23
Good job on the review and mounting steps.
A trick I use to mount the plates/frames to the sub frame is glue the lock washer to the nut (ala Nascar lug nuts to Wheels). Black Weather Stripping glue works well..
Then use some tape or more glue to hold the nut/washer to the socket or wrench.
BC
A trick I use to mount the plates/frames to the sub frame is glue the lock washer to the nut (ala Nascar lug nuts to Wheels). Black Weather Stripping glue works well..
Then use some tape or more glue to hold the nut/washer to the socket or wrench.
BC
01-13-2014, 08:41 PM
#25
Small update. I had bought the MC (master cylinder) and PV (proportioning valve) a few years ago when I started tearing the car apart. Tobin from Kore3 suggested to go manual brakes with the C6 brake setup. He suggested a 7/8" (0.875") MC for the 3/16 brake lines. He even suggested using the CuNiFer lines as well.
I went with the Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-9439-BK and the Summit Racing Proportioning Valve SUM-G3910
So the tools I used were a fine file, pipe cutter and different pipe benders. But you can almost do this by hand if you are up to the task. I just did not want to kink the line being that the line are very short.
So it was time to make the lines. When making the cut on the line you want to make sure you do not tighten the cutter to a point where it basically squeezes the line. Take your time and let the wheel do the job, tighten ever so slightly every revolution of the pipe cutter. Once the pipe is cut use the file to square the end and deburr the inside of the line. As I type this I realized you could use a small drill bit to clean the inside of the line, will try this later.
Use a small wire to make the layout of the lines. Once you have it lined up (in a sense) straighten the wire and cut the tube. You will want to add +/- 1/4" on each side to compensate for the flaring portion of the tube.
When flaring the pipe make sure to place the fitting the correct way and make the flares. Once you have the line done it is time to bend them. The CuNiFer line is very easy to bend (as mentioned before) but you want to go slow. If you do not have a pipe bender you can use a 1/2" socket or even a 1/2" ratchet extension to make the bends. Once you finish you should end with something like this.
I do not do this all the time, so I guess I'll get better at it as I go. The length is the critical part on this to be honest. If anyone has any suggestions on how to measure the line before cutting that would be great.
During 'the week' I will make the front lines and then tackle the front/rear line as well as the rear end lines.
I went with the Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-9439-BK and the Summit Racing Proportioning Valve SUM-G3910
So the tools I used were a fine file, pipe cutter and different pipe benders. But you can almost do this by hand if you are up to the task. I just did not want to kink the line being that the line are very short.
So it was time to make the lines. When making the cut on the line you want to make sure you do not tighten the cutter to a point where it basically squeezes the line. Take your time and let the wheel do the job, tighten ever so slightly every revolution of the pipe cutter. Once the pipe is cut use the file to square the end and deburr the inside of the line. As I type this I realized you could use a small drill bit to clean the inside of the line, will try this later.
Use a small wire to make the layout of the lines. Once you have it lined up (in a sense) straighten the wire and cut the tube. You will want to add +/- 1/4" on each side to compensate for the flaring portion of the tube.
When flaring the pipe make sure to place the fitting the correct way and make the flares. Once you have the line done it is time to bend them. The CuNiFer line is very easy to bend (as mentioned before) but you want to go slow. If you do not have a pipe bender you can use a 1/2" socket or even a 1/2" ratchet extension to make the bends. Once you finish you should end with something like this.
I do not do this all the time, so I guess I'll get better at it as I go. The length is the critical part on this to be honest. If anyone has any suggestions on how to measure the line before cutting that would be great.
During 'the week' I will make the front lines and then tackle the front/rear line as well as the rear end lines.
01-14-2014, 01:23 PM
#26
Another option is to leave the tube long on each end and trim when you're done. I've done this a few times when measuring ahead of time is just hard to do because of obstacles along the tube path.
If you really get into it, there is some great software out there for tube bending called Bend Tech which will allow you to design the tube ahead of time and print simple instructions for cut length and locations, rotation and angle of each bend.
01-16-2014, 01:48 PM
#28
So, it is official. Tanks Inc. will have the EFI Nova tanks by the end of March. After double checking with Justin at Tank Inc. The order was placed.
I cannot wait. I have been going back and forth researching on making your own with the pump outside, inside, sideways up down.
I cannot wait. I have been going back and forth researching on making your own with the pump outside, inside, sideways up down.
Last edited by Sebtarta; 01-16-2014 at 01:54 PM.
01-16-2014, 02:28 PM
#29
So, it is official. Tanks Inc. will have the EFI Nova tanks by the end of March. After double checking with Justin at Tank Inc. The order was placed.
I cannot wait. I have been going back and forth researching on making your own with the pump outside, inside, sideways up down.
I cannot wait. I have been going back and forth researching on making your own with the pump outside, inside, sideways up down.
01-16-2014, 08:50 PM
#31
The front brake lines are finished. They are not as easy as one would think, I guess if you do this for a living then you know exactly what to do. The passenger line was not as easy as I thought. Or maybe I really did not plan my line routing correctly. Getting the length right was a tough one once again.
I did realize that it is easier to start at the caliper end and move your way back to the MC. I did this with the short line, the driver side, and as you can see by the pictures it looks 10x better.
I used a pipe to create the loop on the line. Tobin from Kore3 suggested to make at least 2 loops on the line. Mainly to give it some play for when the car is moving. But also to have enough extra line for the 'just in case' situations.
Here you can see how the driver brake line has better bends and it just looks nice. I felt proud once i finished that line. But the passenger I am not that happy at all. To a point where I might redo it.
I then moved on to the bracket-template for the proportioning valve. This template is very complicated and its made by NASA. Cut some paper, trace one line here, scratch that, move that line there. Use very sophisticated household scissors and done.
The finished template.
I will then use some 18GA steel i have and finish it.
I did realize that it is easier to start at the caliper end and move your way back to the MC. I did this with the short line, the driver side, and as you can see by the pictures it looks 10x better.
I used a pipe to create the loop on the line. Tobin from Kore3 suggested to make at least 2 loops on the line. Mainly to give it some play for when the car is moving. But also to have enough extra line for the 'just in case' situations.
Here you can see how the driver brake line has better bends and it just looks nice. I felt proud once i finished that line. But the passenger I am not that happy at all. To a point where I might redo it.
I then moved on to the bracket-template for the proportioning valve. This template is very complicated and its made by NASA. Cut some paper, trace one line here, scratch that, move that line there. Use very sophisticated household scissors and done.
The finished template.
I will then use some 18GA steel i have and finish it.
01-17-2014, 10:30 AM
#32
Have you mocked up the inner fender since doing the brakelines? If I remember correctly the inner fender just about sits on top of the frame rail in the same area you routed your brake lines. The only photo I could find on my car that barely shows this is here. If you do have a problem, you should be able to trim a little of the inner fender in that area for clearance.
01-19-2014, 06:58 AM
#37
Have you mocked up the inner fender since doing the brakelines? If I remember correctly the inner fender just about sits on top of the frame rail in the same area you routed your brake lines. The only photo I could find on my car that barely shows this is here. If you do have a problem, you should be able to trim a little of the inner fender in that area for clearance.
I will move the brakes line to the center of the frame, just above the seem on the frame. The passenger line I can reshape it to take the correct path. The driver side line I will have to redo. Oh well, practice is perfection.
01-19-2014, 05:15 PM
#38
Well I hope this time the brake lines are done. As I mentioned before I was able to re-route the front passenger line with ease. The CuNiFer lines are much better to work with than stainless or even regular lines. The driver side line was done new and it fits ok.
I also finished the rear lines. I went to Home Depot Motorsports to get 2 3-4" hose clamps to hold the brake line bracket in place. I was going to weld them to the carrier, but if I need to move anything it is a matter of unbolting the clamp or spending $1.20 for a new clamp rather than dealing with the grinder and such to adjust it in the future.
The rear brake hose bracket got misplaced and some measurements were taken, 1.5" up from the carrier and 1" for the hose T. Bend it on the vise and drill the holes needed.
I also got my engine, trans and harness yesterday. Cannot wait to start putting everything together.
I also finished the rear lines. I went to Home Depot Motorsports to get 2 3-4" hose clamps to hold the brake line bracket in place. I was going to weld them to the carrier, but if I need to move anything it is a matter of unbolting the clamp or spending $1.20 for a new clamp rather than dealing with the grinder and such to adjust it in the future.
The rear brake hose bracket got misplaced and some measurements were taken, 1.5" up from the carrier and 1" for the hose T. Bend it on the vise and drill the holes needed.
I also got my engine, trans and harness yesterday. Cannot wait to start putting everything together.
Last edited by Sebtarta; 01-19-2014 at 06:08 PM.
