Hey Guys,
I have been lurking here for years. I couldn't have done this swap without this forum and everyones useful information. I figured I would post my swap as I took quite a few pictures along the way and tried to do things as reasonably priced as possible. The information may be useful to someone. I started the swap in December of 2013 and am pretty much finished. A few things left, but I will post what I have so far and then fill in the details.

Background story: I have owned the car since I was 14. Paint is almost 20 years old, but it still looks pretty good. My dad and I built the car with a mild 350 700R4 combo. Drooled over the LS engines for a while and finally got a chance to pull the trigger. I did a few things different with the swap, so I figured it was worth a post. I tried to do stuff on the cheap, but it is almost impossible when swapping in these newer engines. All in all, I did pretty well though. Here are the before and almost complete pictures. More to come...

 

So the new engine is from a 2000 Z28. It has 120,000 on it, but not too worried about that. 4L60E behind it. Here are a few pics of the engine when I first got it. She is a little dirty....

 

A little tear down and clean up.

 

Looking good!!!

 

A quick test fit of the headers. They are Texas Speed stainless steel swap heaeders. These were very nice for the price.

 

Here are the engine mounts that I had made. They are 3/8" aluminum. I ended up making these at a 7/8" setback and then shifted the motor mount holes down so the geometry would be corrected for the added thickness of the plate. I went with 7/8" so I could use the driveshaft that I had just purchased 2 years prior.

 

Looks good man. Keep up the progress!

 

Thanks guys. Here is how i did the oil pressure sender. Using the original blockoff put the sender too close to the headers for my liking. I had the machine shop at work make me one that mounted it nice against the engine.

 

Are you using a stock Fbody pan?
How close is your pass head to the firewall?
What tranny xmember are you using?
Does your tranny hit the tunnel or did you massage it a little ?

 

Passenger head is 1-1/2" from the firewall. Just enough so that I can get to any of the sensors at the back of the engine. Didn't have to massage the trans tunnel as there was clearance. I used the stock cross member for the tranny and just slide it back and re-drilled the holes. I notched the F-body pan and had it welded. Cost $25 bucks and worked great.

 

A few more pics of the oil pan mod. Moved the lower baffle from the assembly so that it fit in the pan. I also extended the pickup tube using a pipe coupler that was drilled out. Slide both ends in after cutting it and oriented it properly, then welded it. the mount for the pickup tube was cut and re-welded to fit after. I am pretty sure I took pics but can't find them. I will post when I do.

 

Nice looking car, turned out great! That second pic you posted looks almost exactly like what my car looked like when I did my swap, front clip removed,TPI with the breather right on the throttle body, and 17" torque thrusts.... if it was a Nova and green it would be identical.

 

I really liked the TPI. Had tons of torque. It had a shake that I couldn't pin down. After pulling the engine I found both motor mounts were completely ripped apart. Oh well, good excuse to get an LS engine.

 

Found the pictures of the pickup tube modification. Also found another picture of the oil pan after modification. I think that it was notched 1.5 inches both directions. Here they are.

 

Cool build. Great info. Anyway you have the cad drawing for that oil block off piece?

 

Yeah, I have cad for pretty much all of the stuff that I made. I tend to draw things up before I make them. Everything I have is in Solidworks, so let me know if you need something different. Looks like I can't post the part file through solidworks, but I think I can message it if needed. Otherwise shoot me your email and I will get it to you.

 

The alternator was very close to the subframe. I ended up beating the subframe with a small sledge hammer to get the main power cable to clear. I was going to notch the subframe, but the subframe moved so easy with a small sledge that it was a no brainer. It was a whole lot easier.

 

My next step was the fuel delivery. I kept the stock tank which has the 3/8 feed line and 5/16 return line. I used a walbro 255 pump (gsl392) for this setup. I used swagelok fittings on all of the connections through the fuel system. I bought a M10x1 die from Grainger to rethread the fittings that hook to the fuel pump and made my own copper washers. Threaded fittings that are 1/8" npt are very close to m10x1 and can just be rethreaded to it. I scored 3/8" stainless tubing for the main fuel run from my local swagelok supplier for free. Ran it the whole length of the car. I also ran the wix fuel filter 33747 from oreilly on this setup. The pics are very hard to make out, but here are a few.

 

Nice looking car, only question is there a reason you didn't run the fuel line up the driver side to eliminate having to route the fuel line over the intake manifold, would have made a cleaner look in the engine bay? I am not sure but I think you can still flip the fuel rail 180* so that the connection would line up to your passenger side fuel line routing. Just food for thought?

 

That's awesome, I wish I had a ls in my 69.