5.3 Jeep Wrangler Conversion
02-02-2016, 10:15 PM
#21
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What did you do with the purge solenoid valve? I will be keeping mine. My harness from speartech has the gm plug for it. I may wire in the jeep plug so I don't have to buy a gm solenoid. You seem to have a handle on wiring, what are your thoughts?
02-02-2016, 10:57 PM
#22
1964SS, good eye! That should read 2004
TJ/LS3: in not running a purge valve or an Evap canister. I'm running the tank vent from the top of the tank up inside the fender well near the filler neck with a loop and a filter in case of deep water.
Funny you mention that; I repurposed the 5v reference and sensor ground to power the jeep VSS in the transfer case. It's one of three codes that set the other night. The other was the fuel tank pressure sensor.
If you have to comply with emissions, it's not hard to wire it in. Does it need the fuel tank pressure sensor to purge the canister?
TJ/LS3: in not running a purge valve or an Evap canister. I'm running the tank vent from the top of the tank up inside the fender well near the filler neck with a loop and a filter in case of deep water.
Funny you mention that; I repurposed the 5v reference and sensor ground to power the jeep VSS in the transfer case. It's one of three codes that set the other night. The other was the fuel tank pressure sensor.
If you have to comply with emissions, it's not hard to wire it in. Does it need the fuel tank pressure sensor to purge the canister?
02-04-2016, 10:34 AM
#23
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I honestly don't know if it purges the tank or canister. It sits right by the canister on the drivers side inner fender. Do you think the two solenoids are the same .5v power?
02-09-2016, 09:29 PM
#25
OK. Stupid question time: I thought (assumed) the extra connector branching off the MAF sensor was for the IAT sensor. With a 5 wire MAF, the IAT is part of the MAF. And the wayward connector in question is a 3 wire round. Red, grey, and black wires.
Any thoughts? This is the factory harness from a 2004 Trailblazer 5.3.
Any thoughts? This is the factory harness from a 2004 Trailblazer 5.3.
03-01-2016, 01:20 PM
#26
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Mugwump, I got the purge valve stuff figured out. My LS3 has on bolted to the pass side head. All it needs is a vacuum line to the canister.
I'll look at my harness, it's labeled. Otherwise maybe a wiring schematic would help.
BRB!
I'll look at my harness, it's labeled. Otherwise maybe a wiring schematic would help.
BRB!
03-01-2016, 02:57 PM
#28
I haven't updated in a while. The connector is the AC pressure sensor. Not needed since I don't have AC.....
The ECU is out for programming. Once it comes back, I should be good to go after a trip to the exhaust shop.
I still don't know why photos aren't attaching.....
I found a lower hose that works with the stock radiator. The stock upper one fits with some trimming. And it looks like the air intake from the Trailblazer will fit just fine as well.
The ECU is out for programming. Once it comes back, I should be good to go after a trip to the exhaust shop.
I still don't know why photos aren't attaching.....
I found a lower hose that works with the stock radiator. The stock upper one fits with some trimming. And it looks like the air intake from the Trailblazer will fit just fine as well.
Last edited by mugwump5; 03-14-2016 at 12:03 PM.
03-14-2016, 12:02 PM
#31
It lives!!
It set a slew of transmission DTCs. I assumed I had missed a power feed to the transmission. Turns out I didn't have the transmission plugged up...... I was able to drive it around the block with open exhaust on Sunday. Hopefully, I'll get it in the muffler shop on Thursday. Right now, the punch list is a MAF code and adjusting the Lokar shifter. I was able to bump it in reverse at 20 miles an hour.......
It set a slew of transmission DTCs. I assumed I had missed a power feed to the transmission. Turns out I didn't have the transmission plugged up...... I was able to drive it around the block with open exhaust on Sunday. Hopefully, I'll get it in the muffler shop on Thursday. Right now, the punch list is a MAF code and adjusting the Lokar shifter. I was able to bump it in reverse at 20 miles an hour.......
03-22-2016, 11:53 PM
#34
It has a beautiful looking exhaust. He swapped a truck manifold onto the LH side and used the stock Trailblazer manifold on the RH. He did a fantastic job for $395. All the way to the bumper with a 3" pipe and a Magnaflow muffler.
And is setting a U0107 and falling on its face when I give it gas........ I just called roadside and had it towed home. It will be a week and a half before I get a chance to work on it!! Everything I'm reading is a mismatch issue, but since the PCM, throttle body, and TAC module all came from a running car, I'm thinking it's a bad ground, power feed, or I mis-wired something. But, my money is that I'm getting a backfeed from the coolant temp sensor that is sharing a ground with the TAC.
And the punch list: fix the tachometer (verify I have the correct pin at the PCM, add a 1K resistor and power feed?), oil pressure gauge that is pegged all the time (sender or wrong wiring), MAF, transmission, and TAC DTCs, and install the front driveshaft.
And is setting a U0107 and falling on its face when I give it gas........ I just called roadside and had it towed home. It will be a week and a half before I get a chance to work on it!! Everything I'm reading is a mismatch issue, but since the PCM, throttle body, and TAC module all came from a running car, I'm thinking it's a bad ground, power feed, or I mis-wired something. But, my money is that I'm getting a backfeed from the coolant temp sensor that is sharing a ground with the TAC.
And the punch list: fix the tachometer (verify I have the correct pin at the PCM, add a 1K resistor and power feed?), oil pressure gauge that is pegged all the time (sender or wrong wiring), MAF, transmission, and TAC DTCs, and install the front driveshaft.
03-23-2016, 12:00 AM
#35
I'm still having trouble attaching pictures from my phone. I'll try to delete the app and reinstall it. If anyone wants specific details, let me know. I'm 90 days in and I think I'm a few days away from a daily driver. I just need to find the few days to sort out the issues! Not bad for someone working in his garage. And, a solid month was me traveling for work and trying not to send my PCM out for programming! Thanks, Brendan at LT1swap.com!!
04-03-2016, 09:02 PM
#36
OK, so back at it after a Caribbean vacation and here's where we stand:
Everything is back together. Running, but not well. It's setting a U0107. I've checked and re-checked my wiring at the TAC, pedal, throttle body, comm circuits to the PCM, and even ran a clean ground straight to the engine/battery/body ground point. No dice. I'm thinking it may be a software issue, so I have a note out to the programmer. I know all the pieces came from the same donor, and were in good working order when it came apart. I'm wondering if they loaded a standard tune that is not playing nice with the TAC. It is fine until I give it over 30% throttle; I can watch it real-time on the scan tool. Everything is OK until it hits 30%. Then, it goes to limp mode and completely falls on its' face. It is also idling at 575 RPM (requested), which seems a little low for what is supposed to be a stock tune.
I somehow missed a power feed to the transmission, and a ground at the MAF (D'oh!!) Easy fixes, but things I should have caught the first time!
I have all the gauges but the tach working. I did a bunch of digging, and replaced a resistor and added a pull-up circuit to the tach signal, but no dice. I may have to break down and purchase the Dakota digital adapter. I had to replace the oil pressure sending unit with another one; the first one was open all the time (engine on or off). I also added a 20 ohm resistor to the coolant sensor. I used a stock second sensor in the RH rear cylinder head. I grounded one side and wired the other to the gauge. It was reading low, so I ran it up to temperature with a gauge tester and found that 20 ohms put the gauge right where I wanted it at 210 degrees. It may be off a few degrees at higher or lower temps, but if the gauge is past 3/4 I have a problem to resolve.
Speaking of, I have the cooling fan relay added into the underhood fuse box and wired to the PCM low speed fan control (C1-42) which isn't working. I can ground the terminal at the PCM and the fans come on, so there may be more to look at on the PCM tune.
The front driveshaft is in, the shifter works (but is still temperamental! Damn New Process transfer case!) but I had a grinding from the front axle under turns in 4LOW. I'm not sure if I have another issue, or the engine was stumbling and low vacuum didn't allow the front axle to fully engage.
Also, the Lokar shifter doesn't seem to lock exactly in neutral. I've adjusted the rod, shifter, and detent brackets until I'm blue in the face. It's sooooo close, but it's not perfect! Any suggestions?
So, the punch list seems to be: fix the U0107, get the tach adapter and install it, and go driving. I think the other little things will crop up after I get some miles on it!
Everything is back together. Running, but not well. It's setting a U0107. I've checked and re-checked my wiring at the TAC, pedal, throttle body, comm circuits to the PCM, and even ran a clean ground straight to the engine/battery/body ground point. No dice. I'm thinking it may be a software issue, so I have a note out to the programmer. I know all the pieces came from the same donor, and were in good working order when it came apart. I'm wondering if they loaded a standard tune that is not playing nice with the TAC. It is fine until I give it over 30% throttle; I can watch it real-time on the scan tool. Everything is OK until it hits 30%. Then, it goes to limp mode and completely falls on its' face. It is also idling at 575 RPM (requested), which seems a little low for what is supposed to be a stock tune.
I somehow missed a power feed to the transmission, and a ground at the MAF (D'oh!!) Easy fixes, but things I should have caught the first time!
I have all the gauges but the tach working. I did a bunch of digging, and replaced a resistor and added a pull-up circuit to the tach signal, but no dice. I may have to break down and purchase the Dakota digital adapter. I had to replace the oil pressure sending unit with another one; the first one was open all the time (engine on or off). I also added a 20 ohm resistor to the coolant sensor. I used a stock second sensor in the RH rear cylinder head. I grounded one side and wired the other to the gauge. It was reading low, so I ran it up to temperature with a gauge tester and found that 20 ohms put the gauge right where I wanted it at 210 degrees. It may be off a few degrees at higher or lower temps, but if the gauge is past 3/4 I have a problem to resolve.
Speaking of, I have the cooling fan relay added into the underhood fuse box and wired to the PCM low speed fan control (C1-42) which isn't working. I can ground the terminal at the PCM and the fans come on, so there may be more to look at on the PCM tune.
The front driveshaft is in, the shifter works (but is still temperamental! Damn New Process transfer case!) but I had a grinding from the front axle under turns in 4LOW. I'm not sure if I have another issue, or the engine was stumbling and low vacuum didn't allow the front axle to fully engage.
Also, the Lokar shifter doesn't seem to lock exactly in neutral. I've adjusted the rod, shifter, and detent brackets until I'm blue in the face. It's sooooo close, but it's not perfect! Any suggestions?
So, the punch list seems to be: fix the U0107, get the tach adapter and install it, and go driving. I think the other little things will crop up after I get some miles on it!
04-07-2016, 02:22 PM
#37
Well, there is another PCM on the way with a modified stock tune instead of the generic truck file.
I have all the electrical gremlins sorted out except for the tach. I'm convinced I need the Dakota Digital adapter to make it work. I'll get one after I have it running correctly.
So, now we wait for the mailman to deliver a PCM.....
I have all the electrical gremlins sorted out except for the tach. I'm convinced I need the Dakota Digital adapter to make it work. I'll get one after I have it running correctly.
So, now we wait for the mailman to deliver a PCM.....
04-13-2016, 05:41 PM
#38
Well, the new software fixed the TAC issue. And as soon as I had it up as running again the fuel pressure decided to hit 80 psi......
I'll spare you the story. The return line inside the tank was sealed to the bottom of the tank. I pulled the rubber seal and cut an inch off the bottom of the sender.
Then the oil pressure sender started leaking after I replaced the new, defective unit. I managed to strip the threads I put in the oil cooler bypass on the side of the pan. This time I simply added an elbow.
Now it's running lean. It's commanding long term fuel trims over 25%. I have it defaulted now by unplugging an O2 sensor. And the front driveshaft is hitting the engine mounts on hard bumps. So, I guess it's going to get a 2" suspension lift.....
It's driving, and I'll work out the last few bugs. Still no tachometer. I'll update after I install the Dakota Digital adapter and root cause the lean condition.
I'll spare you the story. The return line inside the tank was sealed to the bottom of the tank. I pulled the rubber seal and cut an inch off the bottom of the sender.
Then the oil pressure sender started leaking after I replaced the new, defective unit. I managed to strip the threads I put in the oil cooler bypass on the side of the pan. This time I simply added an elbow.
Now it's running lean. It's commanding long term fuel trims over 25%. I have it defaulted now by unplugging an O2 sensor. And the front driveshaft is hitting the engine mounts on hard bumps. So, I guess it's going to get a 2" suspension lift.....
It's driving, and I'll work out the last few bugs. Still no tachometer. I'll update after I install the Dakota Digital adapter and root cause the lean condition.
07-28-2023, 10:48 AM
#40
V8 Conversion - 94 Wrangler Great post - you did a great job. Swapping in L98 motor/tranny from 88 Corvette with 700R4 into manual with 2.5. Rebuilt motor - stripped and painted engine bay - assembling TPI motor now. Removed EGR valve - Air Pump - remove AC. I bought delete pulleys to keep configuration the same. I have many questions on what to keep and what to delete. Planning on getting wireless harness to ease installation. Are you up to answering a few questions along the way? Appreciate any help you can provide