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Great minds think alike ..I would be interested in your airbox if you are able to fabricate more than one or hook me up with your template. Did you finish the airbox and how did it fit?
Originally Posted by 4LUX
Looks like you have been checking out my build thread, I am seeing lots of similar pictures!!!
Great minds think alike ..I would be interested in your airbox if you are able to fabricate more than one or hook me up with your template. Did you finish the airbox and how did it fit?
Everything should get finished in the next few weeks. The air box is super expensive. I have close to $600 in material and machine work, plus I plan on having it dipped to look like carbon fiber.
Not much to update as I am eagerly awaiting my adapter to arrive but I did score my harness and PCM on a last minute EBay bid. Seller was originally planning to use this on a Boxster swap but had a changed in direction.
Question: What pedals and TAC modules are most of you guys using? Does the Silverado truck pedals fit without any issues?
Not much to update as I am eagerly awaiting my adapter to arrive but I did score my harness and PCM on a last minute EBay bid. Seller was originally planning to use this on a Boxster swap but had a changed in direction.
Question: What pedals and TAC modules are most of you guys using? Does the Silverado truck pedals fit without any issues?
That ECU is the 411, it is the older ECU that uses 24 tooth timing wheel. The Porsche system is 58 tooth. That is why most of use run the E38 ECU, which uses 58 tooth timing wheel.
My engine was pulled from a C5 Vette which is 24x and to late to change the reluctor wheel. Can't remember if tuners were able to change the tach output or if Lingenfelter made a 24x to 58x box. My old LS2 swap I had to use one cause I went the opposite direction of 58x to 24x. Would suck not to get the factory tach working...
My engine was pulled from a C5 Vette which is 24x and to late to change the reluctor wheel. Can't remember if tuners were able to change the tach output or if Lingenfelter made a 24x to 58x box. My old LS2 swap I had to use one cause I went the opposite direction of 58x to 24x. Would suck not to get the factory tach working...
You can install a universal 60-2 (58x) wheel and Hall effect sensor on the balancer just for the tach. Where there is a will, there is a way.
Further thoughts on converting the tach signal and leaning towards Dakotadigital. Seems pretty straight forward and not that expensive. Still plenty of time to change my mind and a long way away from starting the motor
I am using a gm truck pedal with the 24x in my 996. It fits pretty good with the bracket i made. If i did it over again i would go 58x for sure. I ended up just installing a 2" autometer tach on my steering column.
Finished with welding the A/C fittings and mocking up some hoses for the routing and thinking I will run the lines over the same path of the coolant hose line for the heater core. Appears to be a clean way of routing but I will need to verify the space between the back of the engine and firewall once engine is installed.
Tach looks good..if all else fails with the Dakota converter box I will likely do the same. $85 for the signal converter is worth trying.
What type of bracket did you have to fabricate? Anything complicated or straightforward?
Originally Posted by kieferskustoms
I am using a gm truck pedal with the 24x in my 996. It fits pretty good with the bracket i made. If i did it over again i would go 58x for sure. I ended up just installing a 2" autometer tach on my steering column.
It ended up being much more complicated than it needed to be. i started out with metal that was too thin so it flexed. i had to add alot of trusses and what not to strengthen it up but it works great
The electrical fun has begun...Printed out a large diagram of the ECU pinout along with the engine harness wiring and have started cutting out all non needed stuff. So glad I have the factory harness and connectors..
Not much to update this week and was told the engine adapter will be shipping soon so anxiously awaiting the arrival. I did make some progress on the power steering lines and re-routing into the front compartment, basically cut the factory lines and flipped them the other direction and had 6AN fittings brazed on.
Nice, neat install. You might want to check the working pressure of those lines.
I believe only the teflon-lined, high pressure lines are compatible with working pressures of the power steering systems (1000 psi and up).
Earls / Aeroquip have a product line suitable. Forget what they are called. The hose ends, too, are unique from normal AN, though the threads and seal will be compatible, so your new adapters will work fine.
One more note, this would only affect your high pressure side. The return line is low pressure and compatible with what you have..
Thanks, You are correct, the braided lines are Russell PTFE material and designed to hold up to 2500 psi. Luckily it's only $30 for 6ft from summit so I used it on both the high and low pressure side. The standard AN fittings work the same with the hose but a little tricky getting a tight grip threading the fitting into the hose. Took me 3-4 attempts
Originally Posted by DW SD
Nice, neat install. You might want to check the working pressure of those lines.
I believe only the teflon-lined, high pressure lines are compatible with working pressures of the power steering systems (1000 psi and up).
Earls / Aeroquip have a product line suitable. Forget what they are called. The hose ends, too, are unique from normal AN, though the threads and seal will be compatible, so your new adapters will work fine.
One more note, this would only affect your high pressure side. The return line is low pressure and compatible with what you have..
12-22-2016, 01:48 PM
