Yet anoither sloppy Volvo 940 wagon 6.0L 4L80 swap
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Yet anoither sloppy Volvo 940 wagon 6.0L 4L80 swap
So it has begun. Bear in mind this is nothing more than throwing a bunch of spare part together for no money and jamming it into the first suitable chassis that isn't a fox body, F body etc. The motor started as an LQ9 that I got for free because it threw a rod out through the pan. Female driver, escalade and 4 feet of water will do that to a motor. $150 set of L76 pistons and rods off of here, rod, main and cam bearings were all still excellent, Nedw ARP rod and head bolts, Used texas speed cam, used valave spring from upgraded motor, L92 heads used, New head gaskets, used everything else. 4L80 I had under the bench, condition unknown, 3200 stall lock up ptc converter (used) and a 8.8 3.73 explorer rear. Car is a 91 940 turbo wagon that came from CA 8 months ago. Add a 16 year old drift want a bee and you have a rod knocking $450 wagon. Sold the trans for $75 and gave the turbo B230 to my brother in law for his 121 amazon coupe. I will add pics later but it is sitting today with the motor and trans bolted in with the new mounts I fabbed up. And yes, it will need a hood bulge to clear the front of the motor...There is an LS swap Volvo site out there that touts their mounts will clear a truck intake...Bullshit. But I'm not above cutting the hood of something I have $1375 into as it sits...to be continued
Last edited by jfg455; 03-07-2017 at 07:35 PM.
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These builds were cool, but have been done to death. These days everyone hates third gen Camaros, and thinks they are all slow posers at best, plus they are cheaper than rusty Volvo 240s around here. And they have suspension and brake upgrades available, cheap, to make them capable of handling huge power, unlike Volvos and Fairmonts, none of which will ever corner near 1g. The day of the sleeper sedan is past, the new sleeper is the IROC-Z.
Also, why do you guys use $300 sets of 80# injectors instead of $100 sets of 60#? And how do you have free sets of 80s just laying around anyway?
Also, why do you guys use $300 sets of 80# injectors instead of $100 sets of 60#? And how do you have free sets of 80s just laying around anyway?
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These builds were cool, but have been done to death. These days everyone hates third gen Camaros, and thinks they are all slow posers at best, plus they are cheaper than rusty Volvo 240s around here. And they have suspension and brake upgrades available, cheap, to make them capable of handling huge power, unlike Volvos and Fairmonts, none of which will ever corner near 1g. The day of the sleeper sedan is past, the new sleeper is the IROC-Z.
Also, why do you guys use $300 sets of 80# injectors instead of $100 sets of 60#? And how do you have free sets of 80s just laying around anyway?
Also, why do you guys use $300 sets of 80# injectors instead of $100 sets of 60#? And how do you have free sets of 80s just laying around anyway?
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Lol Well this was $450 from CA so no rust. Cheapest 3rd gen up here was $1000 and was rusty. A 3rd gen that will pull 1g? not with any of the stock suspension geometry or parts. Inherent LS swap issues are the same IE: needs rear end upgrade, headers are tight (or expensive if you run off the shelf stuff) torque arm relocate with a trans swap etc. And I have owned five 3rd gens and am bored with them. I do have a shed full of 3rd gen interior and exterior parts if you would like them...but I digress. This build is for me alone, to have fun with junk parts and see how quick a bunch of junk stuff can go. I post these things to help anyone else out who might have a similar idea. None of this is to be taken seriously nor looked at as the ultimate how to on anything.
Just for the record I have a set of 84lb injectors...No I won't be using them on this...No they weren't free...Lol
Just for the record I have a set of 84lb injectors...No I won't be using them on this...No they weren't free...Lol
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All of the above some days! Lol
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So I had bought a set of china headers for an 04-06 GTO that were originally going to be used in a BMW E36 swap. That didn't happen so I took them off the shelf and stuck the passengers side in there. It was very close to fitting. Short version of the story is I cut off the 2 primary tubes that went to the outside of the collector and moved them inside of the other 2 tubes. Move the collector over and viola! A $225 stainless header that fits...Now the drivers side...well that will be a ton of cutting and welding!
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As for cooling a friend of mine did an A&A supercharger kit on his C6 vette and it came with an upgraded radiator. I had the stock unit kicking around in the corner and though "Let me see..." It drops right into the stock charge cooler mounts for the volvo. Only issue is it is 2" too high. I really contemplated just strapping it in sloppy style but I think I will take the 5 Min to drop the lower mount and bolt it in with the stock upper radiator mounts.
Here is the LY6 oil pan with the motor bolted in. It is a full 1" shorter than the older LQ4/9 pans and only 3/4" deeper than an H3 pan. I will run it as is because it is free. Looks like it only hangs an inch below the cross member. If I bash it I will change it. It was free.
Last is a cad drawing for an LS motor mount using an Energy Suspension 4 bar mount bushing inside an 1.5" .120" wall DOM tube. I will post the cad drawing for the lower half of this mount to bolt it to the Volvo cross member. I can get people the DXF file as well if they want to plasma / laser / water jet or CNC mill a set for themselves.
Here is the LY6 oil pan with the motor bolted in. It is a full 1" shorter than the older LQ4/9 pans and only 3/4" deeper than an H3 pan. I will run it as is because it is free. Looks like it only hangs an inch below the cross member. If I bash it I will change it. It was free.
Last is a cad drawing for an LS motor mount using an Energy Suspension 4 bar mount bushing inside an 1.5" .120" wall DOM tube. I will post the cad drawing for the lower half of this mount to bolt it to the Volvo cross member. I can get people the DXF file as well if they want to plasma / laser / water jet or CNC mill a set for themselves.
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I didn't like the radiator being up that high so I knocked out a new lower mount 2" lower and welded it in. I shortened the upper mounts and it is done. The upper radiator hose is from a Silverado I parted out. It was too long so I cut and spliced it together with some aluminum electrical conduit from the srap pile.