ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

That brake switch will work fine, just reuse the nuts off the original rather than trying to use the 'push to adjust' clip thing the newer ones use. And the ignition switch should stay hot while cranking if you hook your ignition relay to the wire that originally went to the coil. That's the way my '59 is anyway, would think a '61 would be the same.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

A 61 is the same.

I'm using a similar brake switch I took from a salvage yard car.

4EyedTurd1

iTrader: (1)

A brake switch from a 96 firebird is in my 64. 4 soldered wires and reused the stock lock nut, it might be an alternative if you're digging in the junkyard.

broke_as_a_joke

Good to hear! Thanks guys! I ordered a Standard Motor Products SLS110, I figured for $5 I would skip the junk yard crawlin. My 61 has a white wire from the dash to the hot side of the coil and a green one coming up to the same terminal from the starter solenoid, that is why I was assuming the white one would die during cranking. I guess I should quit worrying about things that aren't problems yet! I also set up HP Tuners on my computer and started monkeying around with some tunes I pulled off the internet, just to get a feel for what is what. I already feel much better about that! I'm really hoping to get the gas tank back soon, I need to build a down pipe, install a wideband, run vacuum and fuel lines, and attempt to fire!!!

broke_as_a_joke

The brake switch was very slick! The guy that was supposed to weld the sump to my fuel tank had it for a week, and then called and told me he's "not comfortable doing this job because it's going to be going down the highway with gas in it" I don't know what his deal is, blue berry munching hippie I guess. I started gas welding it, had a tough time getting a couple leaks sealed up, so I brazed it, I think it's good now, not my proudest moment, but it wasn't going to do itself. Hopefully it holds together.

I need to ensure the tank doesn't leak, plumb the pump and lines and hopefully fire it up!!! I just finished the last of the wiring today, I had it communicating with my little scanner this evening (if something bad happened the first time I plugged it in I didn't want it to be to my laptop or HP Tuners haha), I did confirm that the IGN wire stays hot when cranking so that is good! SO CLOSE to this thing making noise!!!

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Welding on a gas tank isn't for everyone. I just don't understand why the guy took the job if he wasn't comfortable doing it.


Good call on the OBD 2 scanner. I have an inexpensive scanner I use when I work on swap cars for the first time. I figure losing a cheap OBD 2 scanner is nothing compared to the cost of my HP Tuners pro interface.

broke_as_a_joke

Yeah.... It was a new gas tank, never had fuel in it, same for the sump... Dude is just a sally six toes I guess. I'm mostly just sour he hung onto it for 7 days before calling me to tell me he was too sissy to do the job. It really set me back, I'd of been trying to start it last night if he would've done it. Hopefully my braze job will suffice, I'll get pictures later, it's pretty scary.


The little scan tool worked perfectly normal on it so I think we're good! Shouldn't the CEL come on when key on/engine off? I got a little LED to serve as the CEL, I haven't seen it come on, wondering if I got a bad one, or perhaps didn't get it wired correctly, although that would almost be hard to screw up.

broke_as_a_joke

Edit: I just did a little reading on the subject and realized the PCM supplies the ground to the CEL, I guess with two ground I don't really expect it work... Oops.

broke_as_a_joke

I drove it!!!! The brakes suck! My homemade driveshaft is smooth as can be up to 60 (all the faster I went). Unfortunately I was thrashing so hard to get this thing out of the garage I didn't take any pictures. For a tune I copy and pasted a tune from a very similar build in the sloppy tune cabinet. It idles stupid lean and surges, afr is pretty good off idle and beyond though, I'm sure I'll get that sorted out. I am having an issue that I can't figure out though. Anything over 4-5 psi throws the CEL on, and disables the throttle. The tune that I copied is a DBC and I'm DBC, I was searching on the subject a bit and was reading that this could be caused by a discrepancy in calculated airflow vs expected air flow. Does this sound like a possibility? If so how do I go about changing it? HP is over my head, but I need to get this thing running and shake it down good before I make the voyage to reputable tuner with a dyno, closest one is about 8 hours.

When this happens it throws:
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow A circuit low
P0103 Mass or Volume Air flow circuit high
P0103 Knock sensor 1 circuit low (bank 1)
p0332 Knock sensor 2 circuit low (bank 2)
p0552 Engine oil pressure sensor/switch circuit low
p0654 Engine RPM output circuit (pending, history)
p1514 (Pending, History)

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Congrats on the first drive, it's always a good feeling.

Four wheel drums suck. In my opinion all drums on one of these cars are not worth trying to drive on with any power faster than parade speeds. There are restoration guys who say they're fine and that is great for them. I prefer a bit of safety when the idiot in front of me is driving erratically while on their phone watching videos and surfing FB or whatever.

DBC = Drive By Cable. This means there is a physical cable actuating the throttle body.

DBW = Drive By Wire. This means there is an electronic connection between the throttle and the throttle body.

I say this because your previous post is a bit confusing as the situation you describe can only happen on a drive by wire (DBW) vehicle but you sait DBC twice.

The codes could be a few things depending on the calibration and if the wiring is correct. For the MAF and knock codes, I would make sure the wiring is correct and you have no connectivity issues. From my experience p0552 Engine oil pressure sensor/switch circuit low can be disabled in the calibration and I feel p0654 Engine RPM output circuit (pending, history) can as well.

broke_as_a_joke

Ah geez! Sorry I was typing in a hurry, I'm DBW, the tune I copied is DBC. The only code that sticks around is the oil pressure code, all the rest of those codes only appear when it goes into reduced power mode so I'm thinking they are related to the reduced power mode, clear them, and it drives great again. Until I spool it up over 4psi and then it goes back into reduced power with all those codes. I upped the Expected airflow table by 68% so hopefully that cures it. I also found a table I had neglected to copy over from the other tune in the "idle" section so I'm hoping that will put my idle issue in the ball park!

Unfortunately I'm going to go through the drums for now, the budget is pretty well spent, I'll throw hoses on it, inspect the wheel cylinders, clean, adjust, and replace as necessary. I will disc it eventually, I would like to at least put a dual pot master on it now, quite a bit safer that way!

broke_as_a_joke

I got the reduced engine power power issue solved!!!! Made a quick lap, was satisfied with that, went right back home to work on the idle issue, shut if off in the driveway, made a change to the idle airflow table, flashed it, hit the key, and it fires and dies. Over and over again. I flashed the previous tune back to it thinking I must've screwed something up, same deal. All data looks good, all my google searching leads me to VATs threads, of course mine is off. The TAC module is cool to the touch but kind of has a burning smell about it, wish I had a spare to throw in there. I left it to cool, see if it starts cold. I'm just not sure how to decide if its a tune issue or a part failed issue. I thought maybe it was still looking for a MAF on hot start up but near as I can tell I failed it correctly.

4EyedTurd1

iTrader: (1)

Badass that you got to drive it, you need to take some pictures or videos now.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Where are you located?

A burning smell isn't good, you don't want to let the warranty smoke out.

broke_as_a_joke

Marquette Michigan.


Maybe I'm being a little paranoid about the burning smell, thinking it was just my header wrap. I did get this hot start issue solved though!! Many thanks to ls1tech boards! It wasn't a hot start issue at all! It was a not failing the MAF issue, Every time it was at operating temp I'd load a new tune to it, clearing the codes including the MAF failure code. I finally found a thread started by someone with the same issue and someone recommended he enter a 12.5 value in the entire maf table so that when it refused to fail the MAF right away it would continue to run until it did. Evidently when the engine was cold it would get just enough fuel to continue running until it would fail the MAF, then I'd be good until I flashed it again. So happy to have that solved! Just ordered brake stuff! I pulled it back in the garage to loom the harness, tidy up a few things, and get the brakes fixed up. I also made some headway in fattening up the idle, accidently fattened up just off idle too, that didn't need anymore fuel though haha, oh well, I'm getting the hang of it!

broke_as_a_joke

Slip joint from a late 90s jeep cherokee front driveshaft installed



Here you can see where I left the front shaft stock length and drilled new holes for the carrier bearing, I actually did this because the solid carrier bearing off ebay was so tall it screwed up the driveshaft angle pretty bad, by bolting it to the lower section of the frame it kept the angle much better and saved me shortening the front shaft!



My super ghetto gas welded/brazed/epoxied fuel sump I'm not proud of it at all. Hopefully it will stay leak free, thats all I need from it I guess.



Lawn mower tie rod end and some bar stock made a perfect shift linkage!

broke_as_a_joke

Well I'm still chasing my tail trying to get the AFR dialed in out of boost. I have it fairly close and have been daily driving it for the past few days!! It makes 5lbs on wastegate, creeping up to 7 on a long pull, its a BLAST to drive!! I think I'm going to find a smoke machine to borrow and check for boost leaks, I feel like I keep going in circles with the AFR issue, figuring there must be something going on. I put 4 new wheel cylinders in it, all three new brake hoses, an all star performance 7" booster, and a corvette dual pot master. The brakes are pretty decent! I will disc it eventually, I got them pretty hot once once and it was scary, lesson learned! They are great as long as I don't over use them.

orange88ls1s-dime

Cool car
Should really turn some heads
The gas tank issue may bite you as the new tanks these days are a wierd tin composition. The entire weld should be silicon bronze by tig paying close attention to not overheat the filler material
You may have an issue with cracking as your climate is roughly the same as I have in ontario canada. We have 4 seasons.
Hopefully everything works out though
Beaudacious

Hank Peabody

iTrader: (2)

I have a 63 4 door Impala and have driven it a lot with the stock drums. I just put Wildwood 12.19 discs on the front..UNREAL brakes. They are not cheap but any way you can put that kit on it is amazing the difference! I was trying to get by with the drums but when I couldn't stop for a red light and I wasn't even going very fast..I gave up on the drums!

Nice car!

SQRBODYLSFREEK

Enjoying this here thread...subbed!