G Atsma

Something's either grounding out or shorting...

JacobJ

So I have the TCC switch hooked up to 12 volts as described. Still get a brake pedal position sensor code.. is there any tuning I need to do? Its in limp mode

350SS

iTrader: (38)

it seems like you would want to do something similar at pin x3 58 but with 5v instead of 12v. could always plug the brake sensor in temporarily and see what difference it makes when you move it at different positions and what voltage output it corresponds to. i'd guess it would be variable instead of an on/off thing but maybe an on off is all it needs to operate properly. another option is to turn the code off and see if the limp mode goes away. i'd guess that's what others are doing since i haven't seen mention of needing a brake sensor for the swap but that's just my guess

vannatta20

iTrader: (4)

from my testing looks like you will be fine. If it does not shift then you can send the tcm to get matched to your ecu. 57 psi fuel pressure is working fine on my swaps so far. 4000 miles on my daily 96 tahoe l83 swap

vannatta20

iTrader: (4)

limp mode is caused most likely with the pedal. Check the pedal for two 5 volt reference powers. Two ground reference and app1 and app2. What pedal are you running? A gen iv and gen v truck pedal will work. Not the cars. They have different pinouts

JacobJ

For the gas pedal, an oem 2014 Silverado pedal. So far so good.

For the brake pedal, the original to the car, non-Silverado pedal. I have wired in 12volts brakes applied to X1 Pin 57 Wht/Blu. I will disable the brake pedal position sensor check engine code. It seems that the position switch and 12v brake applied signal are more or less redundant and the position sensor is not needed. This is good because I cant find a wiring connector online for the brake position sensor, and the stealership wants over 100 bucks for just the wire connector.

Also, with Gen V stuff it seems that you get permanent codes which can't be easily deleted and the car has to go through a few heat cycles before they reset. I've been making changes, resetting the diagnostic codes, and wondering why theyre immediately back. They're not back, they just never left haha

JRoe3

Are any of you guys Converting 4WD 6L80s from a Silverado to a 2WD? does someone make a conversion kit?

G Atsma

You have to tear it completely down, as the output shaft is different.

JRoe3

So you just have to swap out the output shaft and the tail housing?

G Atsma

Swapping out the output shaft requires a complete teardown.

JacobJ

This is slightly off topic, but I rented a 2018 Camaro SS recently and this car has a similar Gen 5 chevy engine, albeit the more powerful 6.2L! I was blown away at how great it felt and how powerful it was! cruising on the freeway I was able to get 26 mpg from phoenix to Prescott, AZ without trying. I averaged 17 mpg round trip (I drove it like a rental car after the first highway trip LOL)

Its got me excited to get this old Buick on the road and finished up!

vannatta20

iTrader: (4)

I might be visiting my best friend in Phoenix soon. I should be able to stop by and help get it out of limp mode.

JacobJ

I appreciate the offer but I live over in Vancouver, Washington. I was in Phoenix just for the weekend. Thanks though!

Are you from Las Vegas?? I just moved to Vancouver from Vegas a few months ago.

vannatta20

iTrader: (4)

yes I am in vegas. If you need any help let me know

Jimbo1367

Was the 2018 Camaro SS a 8A or manual?

JacobJ

8 speed auto. it was a rental and they don't usually have manuals haha. I was VERY impressed with the 8l90e. Ive heard different things about them but I was very pleased. was not too many gears.

JacobJ

So back to tuning issues...

When I disable an engine DTC, I still get a check engine light and the DTC pops up... Im getting that brake pedal position sensor code, and the same code is lingering for my accelerator pedal from before I got it working. Same thing for the oxygen sensor code.... thoughts?






I am still new to tuning so idk if anything here is meaningful:

JacobJ

Also I picked up this PWM controller to wire in

vannatta20

iTrader: (4)

Permanent codes will go away eventually. That mis fire needs to be checked. Does the throttle work?

JacobJ

I ran it for about three 20 minute intervals today.

The throttle pedal is responsive and I can drive it, but the engine will not rev over 4,000 RPMs. and it has reduced power also.

How long should I expect on those permanent codes?

the P0300 random misfire is a new one.... I will have to do some checking on that. I bought an engine like this in the past and after they did a compression test they put the plugs in finger tight... so Ill start with the basics haha.